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The films have all the pros and cons, the absolutely perfect, everything fits, does not exist. If the price is right, there is certainly a shortcoming and if almost everything fits, the film is extremely high priced. Frequently, the "golden" center is chosen, the film is the most environmentally friendly and reasonably easy to install and repair and not quite so expensive. In any case, you should always be well advised. It is important that no recycled film content is included. Often, toxins are found in it. The deeper a pond is, the thicker the foil must be to withstand the high pressure. Also important is a layer of sand which protects the film, as well as a nonwoven laid under the film.
Pros and cons pond liner1. PVC film (polyvinyl chloride)
- Most commonly used pond liner
- Very soft, flexible material, high elasticity, high load capacity
- Best price
- Can be processed very well in warm temperatures, also stick
- Ideal for small and medium-sized ponds, even for complicated pond shapes
- Prone to wrinkles, but other slides as well
- Lifespan up to 20 years (with good workmanship)
- Does not tolerate sunlight and should therefore be well covered everywhere
- Available in several colors, black, brown, olive, blue, beige
- In the past, plasticizers were often used, including stabilizers and chlorine. Better to ask what is in it today.
- Environmentally friendly, recyclable
- About 30 percent lighter than PVC
- Convenient for streams and shallow waters
- Larger web widths available, which can often be laid in the piece
- Unflexible, quite stiff, therefore harder to work
- Working with hot air
- Not flexible enough for small ponds
- Made of synthetic rubber
- Good processing possibilities
- Also for big ponds
- High stretch and tear resistance
- Very UV resistant
- Fish and plant friendly
- Cold and heat resistant, from -40 to + 40° C
- Ideal for difficult ponds
- Longest life
- In black, olive and sand colors
- Subsequent wrinkling possible
- To repair damage only by vulcanization
Lay pond liner without wrinklesLaying pond liner without creases is especially important for koi and bathing ponds. This allows uncomplicated care. Often it is necessary that pipes and technology can be incorporated. Especially important when laying the pond liner is the right substrate. Pointed stones and roots must not come into contact with the foil. That's why a sand bed above the ground is ideal. In addition, a protective fleece should necessarily be laid. Both measures later allow easy access to the pond. The pond can be easily entered without the foil being damaged.
- 1.1. Outline the outline of the pond. It is best to use sand, thick string, sawdust or similar
- 1.2. Dig a pond. Distinguish clearly different terraces (swamp zone, shallow and deep water zone)
- 1.3. Solidify all areas
3. Lay out protective fleece
- 3.1.The fleece must be attached to the edges, so that it does not slip when rolling out the pond liner.
- 3.2. Do not use sharp or pointed things that could damage the foil
- 4.1. Calculation of the quantity - Add pond length and pond width, plus twice the pond depth and two times 50 cm for the border
- 4.2. Often the pond liner is delivered on a pallet, expertly folded. To be able to lay them wrinkle-free, it should be folded fan-like on the short side and rolled up on the long side.
- 4.3. The pallet should preferably be placed at a pond corner.
- 4.4. The pond liner is unrolled along the longer side of the pond.
- 4.5. Then unfold the fan-folded foil into the pond pit. The layers are simply pulled apart. The best way to work with several helpers, depending on the pond size
- 4.6. Avoid stresses and tensile loads.
- 4.7. Create cable ducts for electrical installations, water pipes for pumps and the like
- 4.8. If the film is designed, you will see numerous small wrinkles. These are to be contracted to the pond corners, so that a larger fold arises. This is then folded away to the rear.It can also be glued to hold.
- 4.9. Complain film on the edge with stones, strips or plates.
- 5.1. If necessary, press any remaining folds on the ground. The film is drawn deeper into the pond from the edge, solely by the water weight.
- 5.2. Leave water for at least one day before proceeding
- 5.3. Spread pond substrate or pebbles on the depth steps
- 5.4. Continue to fill with water
- 6.1. The easiest way is to reach it by a small, about 10 cm high hill around the pond.
- 6.2. Immediately behind a 10 cm deep ditch is dug.
- 6.3. The pond fleece and the foil must be laid over the hill to the ditch.
- 6.4. The ditch can be filled with river pebbles or other stones because of the optics. There must be no connection between water and surrounding soil!