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Nobody can escape the royal radiance of an iris. Quite rightly, the magnificent flower was named after a Greek goddess. With its breathtaking flower populence, the winter-hard iris graces the garden from May to July in a brilliant color spectacle. In an exuberant variety of varieties, the genus holds for almost every location equal to several of the lovely flowers ready. The following lines give you a detailed picture of how you can plant the popular tuber plant skillfully and maintain it perfectly.
- Plant family: Iris family (Iridaceae)
- Genus: Irises (Iris)
- More than 300 species in 6 subgenera
- Perennial, herbaceous nodule flowers
- Growth heights of 20 to 100 centimeters
- Main flowering period from May to July
- Mainly hardy to -20 degrees Celsius
- Slightly toxic in all parts of the plant
Within the diversified variety of species and variety romp both drought-loving sun children, as well as rain mantis for wetlands. Before you proceed to the planting of an iris, a decided selection of suitable varieties for the intended location should take place.
The better the prevailing conditions in the bed are reconciled with the species-specific requirements of an iris, the more magnificently it will thrive. Supposedly, suitable light and ground conditions for irises can be defined as follows:
- Sunny to shady layers in all nuances
- Warm and airy
- Nutrient-rich, humus-rich soil
- Sandy-dry to fresh-moist
- Loose and well drained, without waterlogging
Tip: For the culture in the bucket the iris is only partially suitable. Due to its expansive tuber, it is in the limited volume of a planter in a short time too tight.
Inserting in the ground
The time window for planting irises is open from July to September. In the sun-warmed ground, the roots can establish themselves well, until frost and snow catch hold. In advance, the soil quality should be closely examined to make any improvements. Heavily compacted soil is loosened up with sand or clay particles. To sandy substrate receives a generous portion of compost or commercial humus. A straightforward pH test is recommended to optimize the acidic soil adequately with lime at a value below 5.5. Following the soil preparation is planted:
- Create small pits with a depth of 2-3 centimeters
- Mix the excavation with guano as storage fertilizer
- The variety-dependent planting distance varies between 25 and 40 centimeters
- The tuber insert with down-directed roots
- The rhizome has to be half out of the ground
- Press the soil and water
Tip: lovers of iris arrange the flower tubers in a circle, mixing varieties with different flowering times.
Pouring and fertilizing
In the immediate aftermath of insertion, irises are repeatedly cast. Once they have gained a foothold, additional watering is only necessary if the natural rainfall is insufficient. In addition to a fertilizer application in spring with compost or guano, additional nutrients are only needed if deficiency symptoms reveal themselves. An iris symbolizes the need for fertilizer through yellowish foliage or a dull flowering flower. In this case, organic fertilizer is recommended because the rhizomes are very sensitive to the salts in mineral preparations.
Cutting and wintering
After flowering, the iris needs some more time to assimilate the remaining nutrients from the above-ground parts of the plant. In this way, a depot is created inside the rhizome, which will make a valuable contribution to the next glory bloom in the next season.
- If no clearing is desired, irises are decapitated immediately after flowering
- Flower stems and foliage remain until the end of September
- Then cut to 10 centimeters above the ground with a sharp knife
- Winter cover is required only in rough conditions
Tip: irises in the bucket are protected against frostbite by a cover of bubble wrap. Frost from below preserves a wooden or Styrofoam block as a base.
Rejuvenate and multiply
A central care tip refers to maintaining the vitality of these charming perennials. Over the years, irises tend to form an imposing eyrie that sheds from the inside. Experienced hobby gardeners effectively prevent this deficiency by dividing every 3 to 4 years. Here's how to do it:
- The optimal date is 6-8 weeks after flowering
- Lift the tuber out of the ground with the digging fork
- Only trim the outermost rhizomes that have at least one leaf fan
- Immediately seal the cuts with charcoal ash
- Shorten all leaves wedge-shaped with scissors
- If necessary, also trim the roots down to 10 centimeters
The paradisiac beauty of an iris is rarely affected by health disorders. If there are problems, the cause is often to look for care errors. Fortunately, there are good prospects for a cure in an emergency.
Inadequate treatment of cuts as part of the division or a rainy spring trigger rotting on the rhizome. First, the lower end of the flower stem turns brown. In the course of the tuber is soft and also brown. How to react to the damage:
- At the first signs of rot, pick the tuber out of the ground
- Use a sharp, disinfected knife to cut off all damaged areas
- Dilute chlorine bleach with water 1:10 and clean the rhizome
Leaf spots and leaf burn
Brown spots on the leaves or orange-brown discolored tips are not a cause for concern. These symptoms are usually based on inadequate or excessive water and nutrients.
- Cut off the affected leaves
- Optimize the water and nutrient balance
- When in doubt, divide the rhizome and transplant it to a more suitable location
With regal grace irises decorate the perennial beds of the garden in all imaginable locations. The perennial tuberous flowers with their unique flower form make only minor demands on the care. If the variety-specific expectations of the light and soil conditions harmonize with the selected location, the care is reduced to casting in the event of drought. Irises are only fertilized if they signal an additional nutrient requirement. A division every 3 to 4 years makes the crucial contribution to the preservation of vitality.