Cut Japanese cherry perfectly

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Japanese cherry - flowering cherry

On the other hand, their care is quite simple and the soil claims of cherries can be easily fulfilled. Due to the large number of possible locations, they are very easy to integrate into your own garden.

The right time to pruning

Japanese ornamental cherries have special properties that are crucial for growth and pruning.
  • Spring flowers from the beginning of March to the end of May
  • develop a lot of plant juice in winter
  • form different growth forms
  • cut sensitive
Combined, these characteristics yield a tree that, despite its strong growth, does not tolerate large incisions and certainly not in winter. The cut should therefore take place in a warm season, preferably in June, because ornamental cherries can not bleed and the individual branches can regrow vigorously, but orderly. If you want to make a shape-changing cut, you should complete the mid-fall, because this can get the cherry to get used to the new shape. However, it should be noted that the whole cut of the cherry should not be cut until after about three years, because then it has developed a certain hardness.

First pruning of Japanese cherry

When cutting for the first time, special attention must be paid to the entire tree species. They should thin out very thinly, targeting the oldest shoots that are deep above the earth. They usually have a cracked bark that is darker than that of the younger shoots. They become permanently too heavy for the tree and prevent it from growing straight and not too branched, as the old branches have a tendency to do so. If the tree is already very branched, the side shoots should also be cut, otherwise they will proliferate.

Cut Japanese cherry trees annually

In the cherry blossom is increasingly put on a gentle cut, since it can be disturbed sensitive. The tree can quickly become too large and so the owners should take care in the planning of the annual summer cut to make sure the right size. When cutting, all dead branches are carefully removed and you should definitely use clean cutting tools, as the cherry can get sick quickly. In addition to the dead branches, all disturbing branches and shoots should be removed. This refers to the parts that either grow too fast or inward and could thereby disturb the entire growth of the other shoots. A common phenomenon are so-called wild drives. Remove these as well. This is from March to September, as they do not bleed.
The cut is as follows:
  • find the branch
  • settle straight and as far as possible on the trunk
  • Cut off with a suitable tool
  • Remove residues
  • Attention: be sure to apply a wound closure
  • Do not dispose of shredded waste on the compost but in the green waste
In large and heavily branched trees, the side shoots should be removed, as they can form more and more shoots. Make sure to leave an open top frame that has been cut as cleanly as possible. This gives the cherry a stronger growth and a nicer shape. If you want to strengthen the cell walls of the tribe, you should accept a potassium supplement in late summer. Then the shape cut should be omitted. Never cut too hard into the old wood, just so that the wrong shoots can be removed. The tree could thereby receive an unsightly growth, which is difficult to correct.
The important shape cut, if, for example, a flat crown is desired, happens especially in October. Here, simply, if the necessary expertise is available, cut the crown in the desired shape.

The necessary tools for pruning

To cut the ornamental cherry classic tools are sufficient, but which should be in a certain quality. Special emphasis should be placed on this topic on the scissors. The cherry always needs a very sharp pruning shears, which can also be equipped with a telescopic handle. It should also be kept sharp, because here the tree is sensitive, as supernatant residues promote no pleasant growth. It should be made a very smooth wound, which is then supplied with a suitable Wundverschlussmittel. The cherry can thus seal the wounds well and promote next branches for next year, which then correspond to the desired shape. If the branches are very close to what an old cherry can do, then you should use electric saws or scissors that cut off the branch in a high-quality and efficient way. This also guarantees the clean growth and shoots.

Japanese cherry - flowering cherry

Cutting the Japanese cherry is not difficult with the right tool. Above all, manufacturers have proven themselves in this procedure Fiskars, Siena Garden and wolf, They not only offer a sharp blade, but an anvil function, which can be used very well with the strength of the branches. For the small branches are suitable Gardena, Fiskars and Felco.

Conclusion to the pruning

Japanese ornamental cherries are particularly popular in the front gardens as jewelry. They are one of the first plants to impress in spring with a large flower splendor and transform the lawn into a pink and white flower carpet. The cutting of the Japanese cherry is not rocket science and can be implemented well with the necessary preparation and high quality tools. No matter if tree or shrub of the cherry, it is easy to shape and thus healthy accents are set in the garden.
  • From the Japanese ornamental cherry there are now countless crosses and species with different varieties.
  • These differ mainly in the color and shape of the flowers, in their growth and the time of flowering.
  • While some are already in a breathtaking sea of ​​flowers at the end of March, others unfold in late May.
  • Here, only the oldest shoots should be cut out.
  • The best time for clearing and pruning is spring.
  • Although you can see better in winter as the stump is branched, nevertheless, a cut in the winter leads to a stronger exhalation in the summer.
  • If this is not desired, the cut should be shifted to the spring.
Small and large pruning
  • Since the pruning should be kept to a minimum, only the oldest shoots close to the ground should be cut off.
  • Older shoots can be recognized by the fact that their bark is a lot darker and also more cracked, as is the case with young shoots.
  • If it is a very strongly branched shrub, the side shoots are also shortened.
  • In a larger ornamental cherry, a comprehensive pruning is made so that the plant can drive out in full splendor again.
  • The best time for the larger pruning of a Japanese ornamental cherry is the spring. The success is seen in the following year.
  • In this pruning is left only an Astgerüst stand on which then builds the shoot in the following season.
  • Be careful: do not cut into the old wood!

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