The Content Of The Article:
Currants in the pot can be planted in almost any season, but they are easier to grip if you put them, just like all bare root shrubs, after the autumn fall or in the spring before the new shoot. If you want to put a potted currant, you should water the pollen well before planting and keep the soil evenly moist at the new location until the trees are well rooted. That takes at least three to four weeks.
Tip: Existing redcurrant shrubs can be easily multiplied by sticks. For this, after harvesting, de-leaf about one-and-a-half centimeters of annual twigs and place them in a pot with moist, sandy garden soil. Plant after rooting on the spot.
Step by step: plant currants
Before planting the currant make a planting cut (left) and cut the shoots (right)
Currants are planted quite deeply. Therefore, it is recommended to do the planting before the shrub base disappears into the soil. First cut off all weak and damaged shoots directly at the point of attachment. The remaining shoots shorten by a third to a maximum of half of their original length.
In a sunny spot in the garden dig out the planting hole (left) and pot the currant (right)
Now lift the planting hole in a sunny, not too dry place in the garden. Although red currants also grow in partial shade, they produce a much more intense aroma in full sun. The root ball is now pulled out of the plant pot. If necessary, loosen the sides and bottom of the bale with your fingers.
Insert the root ball of the currant into the planting hole (left) and carefully cradle the soil (right)
Now place the root ball in the ground so deeply that the surface is at least three fingers below the earth level. Due to the deep plants, the robust shrubs at the base of the main shoots form so-called adventitious roots. In addition, more young shoots grow from the ground. After blending the planting hole, gently cradle the soil and model a pouring rim around the plant.
Pour the freshly planted currant (left) and apply a layer of mulch (right)
Pour the moisture-loving berry bushes thoroughly with about ten liters of water. Finally, apply a mulch layer of deciduous or bark compost. It stores moisture itself and reduces the evaporation of the soil.
High stems refined on the more sensitive gold currant need a support pile that reaches into the middle of the crown. If you tie them, as often practiced, underneath the crown at the finishing point, Windbreak threatens. For this they require full sun and a grass and weed free root area, which corresponds approximately to the crown diameter. The berry shrubs also grow in the middle of or on the edge of the lawn and even in the light shade of other fruit trees. White currants are even better off there - the berries tend to burn and tan easily.
More yield on the wire harness
In commercial fruit growing culture has prevailed on a trellis of tension wires. The currant shrubs form long grapes and the berries ripen perfectly. In education, one confines himself to three main instincts and fixes them fan-shaped on the trellis. The harvested side shoots are cut back shortly after harvest or in winter on short spigots.
The culture of currants on the trellis brings more yield
Pests in currants
Various species of aphid make currants. Most common are damage from the currant aphid. They are usually only discovered when leaves curl and cripple the shoot tips. In case of infestation by bladder lice, the leaves are distended in a bubble. The lice sit in the vaults on the underside of the leaf. In case of low incidence, spraying is not necessary - it is sufficient if you remove affected leaves and shoots early. In lice years one gives the pests with environment-friendly spraying means (for example "Neudosan new aphid-free") a place reference.