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Before you start, you should first make the effort to find out exactly about the Koihaltung. It is important that enough space is available for the pond, that there are shady and sunny areas and that the property is well secured, because the pond owner is liable in case of damage. The big colorful fish attract children magically and it can quickly lead to accidents. When building a koi pond, planning is the first step and there is a lot to consider here.
The planning includes the site question, the type of pond in general (prefabricated pond, pond liner or masonry), the size, the necessary technical equipment, the design of the areas around the pond and of course the cost. It takes a lot of material and quickly come together several thousand euros. The location should provide sunny and shady spots (if necessary, you can also shadow with floating islands that are planted)
- Since foil oaks are the cheapest option, we have chosen these for our guide.
- For oak pines there should be few corners and arcs, otherwise many wrinkles occur.
To be able to create the pond, the earth must first be dug for it. By hand, so spade and wheelbarrow is a very tedious and time-consuming task. Better, it is done with an excavator. You can borrow that for such occasions. The difficulty is the arrival and departure. Usually you have to rent a corresponding car also. Another problem is the excavated earth masses in the garden is usually no place for it and there are quantities. You can have them taken away, in the container. The prices are in cbm. The excavator is again very helpful here, because by shovel up in the container is a tough job.
- The walls of the pond should be as steep as possible and yet somehow look natural.
- Do not make the edge of the pond too deep so that it can serve as a planting zone. However, it is also a good landing zone for herons.
- The bottom of the pond should have a groove on the sides. So impurities are transported to the floor drains and rinsed out.
- Scour all walls and the ground for stones, roots, scraps of glass and other sharp objects and remove them all.
Depending on which filter you use, it must be placed. A distinction is made between chamber filters (flexible and cost-effective), bead filters (space-saving and powerful), modular filters (expandable and adaptable), trickle filters (for plenty of oxygen) and drum filters (good mechanical cleaning). A filter is rarely sufficient. Most filters are placed at pond level, next to the pond and get their own pit. Large ponds often have more than one filter. Everything has to be thought through in the planning phase.
- Ideal for the foil pond is a chamber filter.
- It consists of 5 chambers
- 1. Vortex sieve filter for mechanical cleaning, coarse dirt particles
- 2. Japan mats - also mechanical cleaning, much finer
- 3. HeIX resting, filter mats, bacterial strains
- 4. HeIX moves, biological filtration through open-pored substrate, bacterial strains
- 5. Pump chamber for tube pump, pump for soil filter and UVC lamp.
All technical devices must be connected. Water must be able to run in and out. The whole installation is extensive. Everything is laid in pipes. The connections for everything have to be included in the first work.
- One pond must be planned for each pond at least once. Bigger ponds have more, because there is more work for them.
- Floor drains provided with pressure pipes
- Feed and return valves
The pipes are not decorative, but they are necessary. Without pipes, the whole pond does not work. You should not do anything wrong, because at the largest Tei of the pipe system, it is very difficult to get back on. It is important not to use too long pipes, so that the water flow is not unnecessarily long. In addition, no excessive bends should be laid because then the water flow is braked unnecessarily. The best are 30 to 40 degrees bows.
- Lay pipes according to plan
- All seals must be in the pipes
- Concrete in the bottom inlet, leave the top edge free, connect
- Fill the pipe with sand or earth
- There must be no cavities left
- Fit the spool
Although the pond fleece causes additional costs, should not be waived. It protects the pond liner on it but crucial. The fleece is laid over the entire pond.
- The tracks are rolled out individually and adjusted over the area.
- You start on one side and roll inwards.
- Press the fleece against the steep walls so that the shape fits.
- Go back upstairs on the opposite side.
- First let the edges overlap generously.
When laying out the film, make sure that as few wrinkles as possible are created. In the folds dirt can accumulate, which houses germs and pathogens. Instead of many small wrinkles, a big one is better, which can be folded over and welded. The film will work better when it is soft and it will heat it up.
- Spread out the foil and let it warm
- Pull with several people over the pond
- Get into the pond without shoes and adjust the foil to the contours
- The small folds to big (maximum 4 at the corners or curves) join together
If the film is properly adjusted, the floor drains must be felt. Carefully cut a cross in the foil, just above the drain. The process must be assembled. In addition, the film is to be glued so that no water can escape. Here, clean work is necessary. All gluing materials must be very clean. The flange ring is connected to the bottom outlet.
- Working clean
- Use plenty of glue
- Stick all bottom outlets firmly
First, only a little water is admitted. During this, the foil should be put on again and again to make it taut. Only one third, then two thirds. Afterwards, the water stays for a few days so that everything can settle. The earth under and around the pond is compressed by the weight of the water. During the time the filter should already be running. This is how the first important bacteria settle.
- First, just fill in the soil to test if the bottom enemas work
- Fill in plenty of two-thirds
- Start the pump
The capillary barrier is formed where the pond liner stops at the edge and the soil begins. If this area is created incorrectly, the garden soil and the plants planted on it constantly draw water from the pond. That should be stopped.
- To make a small ditch around the entire pond, always parallel to the edge of the pond. 20 cm wide enough.
- Who has calculated the pond liner exactly, has 50 cm more per side planned, just for the capillary lock
- Lay the film through the trench, pull it up on the outside so that it just closes. No plant should have the chance to push their roots over the foil.
- Complain and cover the trench and the foil with stones, so that it looks more beautiful and the foil is protected.
Only when the pond and capillary barrier have rested a few days, the film has finally adjusted and it is ensured that no water disappears from the pond, the protruding edges of the pond liner are cut off. It is important that the pond liner does not remain blank. Sun, UV radiation, frost, ice and other factors can affect the durability. Uncovered film will be slightly brittle, especially if it is not UV resistant.
- Do not cut off the foil immediately after setting up the capillary barrier
- Pond has to settle first
A koi pond can be created from different materials. The cheapest version is the one with pond liner. In the construction, a koi pond does not differ greatly from a normal garden pond. Mostly it is only built deeper and more technology laid. Those who have never kept Koi should be well advised on the necessary equipment. In general, planning the pond is the most important thing. It has to be thought of many details. Better to seek professional support. This does not have to be a seller. There are numerous forums on the World Wide Web, where professionals are happy to provide information and where to discuss what constitutes the best and cheapest solution. The time should be invested.