Cultivating lavender in a pot: That's how it works

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Fortunately, lavender flourishes in the pot as well as in the bed. Species such as the lavender (Lavandula stoechas) even prefer a pot culture in our latitudes. So you can also on balcony or terrace for a touch of Provence and holiday mood. For who does not love him, the summery scent and the violet-blue flower spikes of lavender? From planting to hibernation: How to cultivate lavender successfully in the pot.

Lavender: planting in a pot

Choose a lavish planter for your lavender, as the Mediterranean shrub likes to stretch its roots far and wide - in both breadth and depth. A terracotta or clay pot is ideal because the material evaporates excess water. So the roots remain cool even on hot days and there is no waterlogging in the pot. Another advantage is the stability of the pots made of natural material. Who decides to buy a plastic bucket, must pay particular attention to a good drainage. Lavender needs a well-drained soil for healthy growth without waterlogging. A layer of expanded clay or coarse gravel on the bottom of the pot ensures that the lavender does not get wet feet. As a substrate lavender in the pot prefers a nutrient-poor mixture of potting soil and sand.

Schopflavendel in the planter

Tuft-in-tone with its planter Schopflavendel looks very modern

To cultivate pot lavender

Immediately after planting, water your new lavender well with lime-free water and keep it slightly damp for the first few days. That's how long it usually takes to get used to the roots. After that, lavender in the pot is a bit drier than too moist. Therefore, check before every watering if the upper layer of earth has already dried. Excess irrigation water in the saucer must be emptied quickly. As a feebler, lavender needs no fertilizer in the pot. On the contrary, too many nutrients have a negative effect on flowering and fragrance! If you want to mulch the earth's surface, use gravel rather than bark mulch.

Cut lavender

Cut lavender

This is the easiest way to cut lavender in a pot

Lavender tends to lignify from below and gets scruffy over the years - so pot-lavender is no exception. A regular pruning can prevent a sprinkling of the branches. The first cut of the year takes place directly at the beginning of the shoot, the second after the first flowering. Thus, it comes to a post-bloom in late summer and one has more pleasure in the fragrant flowering shrub. For the cut, you can most easily grasp the entire head of the plant and cut off all flower heads with a sharp garden or kitchen scissors. Overall, the lavender shrub is cut back about half the height. Attention: Do not cut too deeply! Do not forgive cuts in the old wood lavender and drives out of these branches no longer new.

Winter protection for lavender in the pot

Lavender in the pot Winter protection

The warm packaging around the pot prevents the root ball of lavender from freezing in winter

Frost-hardy lavender varieties can spend well-packed winter outdoors. To do this, wrap the plant pot with bubble wrap or thick jute and place the pot (with free vent holes) on a Styrofoam plate or a wooden board. In a sheltered place where the winter sun does not shine with all its power, frost-resistant Lavandula angustifolia and Lavandula x intermedia varieties overwinter. In contrast to the genuine lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), baby lavender is not hardy and can therefore be cultivated exclusively in the pot or once a year in the bed. Schopflavendel in the pot must be brightly wintered at five to ten degrees Celsius room temperature, for example, in a bright garage or a cold conservatory. Water the lavender - whether indoors or outdoors - in winter just enough so that the root ball does not dry out completely. After the winter, the plant should be repotted in fresh substrate and gradually get used to the outdoor sun-place again.

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