Prepare the lawn - level and straighten

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Prepare the lawn - level and straighten: lawn

The goal is to create a smooth, generally flat profile. Holes are filled, small hills are leveled and larger stones and root pieces are tamed. Normally a distinction is made between the rough plan and the fine plan. At least in the Feinplanie does not help a machine, but only a good rake. However, the planing is easily done by hand if the machines have done a good preliminary work. A well milled, feinkrümeliger, dried soil can plan much better. Well milled is semi-level, so to speak.
Of course, one waits for dry weather and only then to the rake when the soil is in the right condition. There are hardly any restrictions on sandy soil. It dries quickly and can be easily edited almost at any time. Not so on heavy ground; Clay or clay soil is heavy and lumpy when wet and difficult to work with. Dry loam or clay soil is just as hard to work with, because it hardens when it dries out. It is best to work on it when it is no longer wet, but still wet with it. A good soil preparation is already noticeable during the work on the plant and later during the maintenance work. In contrast, most lawn grasses can germinate and grow on almost any soil.
In a transformation of an old garden on a grown soil or in a new investment on poured soil, the design of the lawn, especially the height of the existing buildings, boundaries and fences is largely determined, so that the modeling options remain within limits. When the turf plant on new land, so piled up soil, it is important to ensure that it has already set and is sustainable. Otherwise, later cracks and subsidence are not excluded. Especially on a slope, the ground should be well consolidated or, if necessary, terraced and supported. Otherwise, landslides, especially during rainstorms, are easily possible.

The rough plan

In the rough plan, the soil is first leveled roughly with the rake. It is crushed the floes and right stones and other objects. In the rough planing stones, shards and weed roots are collected again. If there are still coarse sods from the old lawn. It is best to compost and not dig in, as the soft cushions will rot in the soil and later cause troughs in the lawn. Troughs from the milling are filled with earth, humps are removed and unevenness is compensated, so that a uniform surface takes on form, which is more or less adapted to the natural terrain.
The best way to do this is to use a simple wooden rake with a straight tine bar, because it can be pulled flat and evenly over the ground. The rake is moved back and forth so that the tines go through the earth several times and crumble the clods. Large lumps of earth that do not disintegrate, as well as stones and broken pieces, can easily be buried in the ground. These holes are partially excavated, which absorb the unusable spoil. Then you fill them with soil again. By the way, little stones do not bother. They serve to loosen the soil and can hardly be removed anyway anyway.
For this, the soil would have to be sieved and applied fresh. However, this is not worth it for the lawn and is also hard to cope with. In addition, after the next winter to find again stones. The frost pushes them from deeper soil layers up! So they have to be collected again and again, which is like Sisyphus work. Usually, therefore, it is sufficient to later, after the lawn, occasionally chop off and remove the large stones.
Root pieces are, of course, picked up and removed so that they do not drive out again, especially the broad-leaved root weeds, such as dandelion, dock and thistle. Although roots of monocotyledonous plants, such as couch grasses, can be treated properly, they can not be totally eliminated, especially since every small piece of root left behind produces a new plant. Quecken disturb but not in the lawn anyway. They are mown with the remaining grasses and contribute to the formation of a dense sward.

Meadow lawn grass

During the planing, the earth can not be avoided. That's another reason why the soil should be dried. He is then more sustainable and can also be easier to work than when wet. When peeling, fine crumbs form, which trickle loosely through the rake tines. Wet soil is heavy and difficult to crush. The coarse lumps must be constantly broken by force, especially on clay soil. In addition, wet soil is soft. He is compressed again when walking and that is of course a hindrance and disturbs the subsequent work.

The fine plan

As soon as the turf surface has approximately the desired shape, ie the whole surface is roughly leveled and, if required, modeled, the floor is reworked with the rake. When removing, preferably again with the wooden rake, only minor bumps are compensated and crushed coarse earth chunks. This is best done by not pulling the rake flat, but as steep as possible, so that the tine bar touches the ground and acts like a peel rail. Of course, the rake has to be kept straight and the tine bar must be pulled through horizontally. In this fine planing or "peeling" the rake is not pulled back and forth through the earth, which is necessary in the rough plan for the crushing of coarse clods, but only in one direction led In this way, the stones and coarse earth chunks in the Distributed terrain, but pulled along with the bar and removed from the area.
Of course, the more accurate and intensive this happens, the more even the seedbed for the lawn and thus the lawn area becomes even leveler. However, it is not worthwhile to prepare the ground in the style of a professional golf course, because in the subsequent work he has to accept footsteps and lanes again. Incidentally, soon after the plant, shallow depressions and hills are again formed naturally by subsidence of cavities and the decomposition of organic substances, especially since the soil is alive and also the turf plants provide for changes.
With a little practice, and this is plenty of opportunity, the removal is easy from the hand. The area will be as well as possible, but not better than necessary, planed and prepared for sowing. Overall, it should look nice and even. Individual footprints and rake tracks do not bother. You will not be seen 14 days after sowing.


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