Mallow cut - tips for bush lice and shrub mallows

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Mallow cut - tips for bush lice and shrub mallows: mallows

Depending on the variety, mallows can benefit from regular blending or be severely damaged by it. Before the ornamental plants are shaped or even slightly lighted, therefore, the knowledge of the respective requirements and peculiarities is crucial. Nobody has to train for the expert botanist with a green thumb, because if the following instructions are followed and the necessary care steps are carried out afterwards, the blending of the mallow is also possible for beginners.

Intersect one-year varieties

Some species of the mallow are annual or cultivated by their sensitivity to frost in the garden only a year old. These can be completely dispensed with a blend. Neither can a lush growth be achieved thereby, nor is a greatly altered shape possible. Only the flower can be extended by the timely removal of the dried inflorescences.
For this purpose, each flower is cut off immediately after blooming. Likewise, they can be removed with a longer stem and then used as a cut flower. This procedure is useful in Busmalsven or shrub mallow, since fruiting begins after flowering. This process robs the plant of much power, leaving less energy for other buds and flowers.
If the mallow is a particularly beautiful specimen that is supposed to beautify the garden again next year, not all flowers should be removed. Only if at least from the end of August or beginning of September some dried flowers remain on the mallow and fruits may develop underneath, then the required seeds can be obtained.

Blight of perennial mallows

Perennial cultivated shrub mallows can take on immense proportions over time and for that reason need a blend. It also makes sense to intersect, when bald spots develop in older bushmallows, the shoots become gnarled or the flowering joy of the growth subsides.
Although in the case of shrubby bush shrubs a blending is always advisable, attention should again be paid to the different requirements of the varieties. It is not necessary to know the exact name of the mallow. Crucial, however, is a simple feature of the shoots.

Woody variants

If the bush mallow is a higher-growing specimen with woody shoots, the waste is particularly easy and quick to carry out. Such varieties are good cut compatible and therefore may be cut radically. Please note the following points:
  • Cut off all main shoots about a hand's breadth above the ground individually
  • Mix the mallow on a frost-free day and not in full sun
  • Use only clean and preferably disinfected cutting tools
  • The first blending should take place at the earliest in the second year
  • The shrub mallow should only be radically blended if it is completely healthy
  • In older Buschmalven rather use a saw, as a pair of scissors, so as not to squeeze the shoots or shred
Tip: It suffices to radically cut shrub mallows with woody shoots every two to four years.

Plants with tender stems

Smaller mallows, whose stems remain green and do not lign, are much more sensitive to the blend. Radical may therefore not be used on these. Nevertheless, it is not entirely unnecessary to do the blending.


It should be noted, however, that not all shoots shortened at the same time or only slightly removed from the length. An all-round cut in which no more than a quarter of the instinct lengths are cut off, can usually cope with healthy malts easily. With a larger loss of leaf area, however, it becomes critical.
It is also possible to cut individual stems - for example, stand-outs, balders or damaged people. Even then, no more than about a quarter of the mass should be removed per cut.
Tip: If you do not want to rely on your own judgment, you should grab the tape measure before cutting the bush mallow and first cut the plant by a maximum of a quarter of its length. From there, the orientation is easier.


Of course, in the garden close to nature, form cuts of the Buschmalven are not desirable, but as a path limitation, hedge or decorative highlight, such a cut can be quite useful.
For the shape cut, no radical shortening of the shrub mallow is necessary. Instead, the basic form is first created and from there always corrected outward shoots. In order to achieve a dense growth, in addition growing branches should be shortened as fast as possible.

care cuts

In young shrub mallows, even varieties with woody shoots, a radical blend is often unnecessary. This is only really useful if the plant looks lighter or less flowers. In addition, the necessity of cutting back the mallow close to the ground can be delayed slightly if regular care cuts are made. Only shoots that are removed are:
  • Damaged by the sun or kinked
  • Infested with diseases or pests
  • Stand out of the plant visually disturbing
  • Unfavorable to grow inside
  • Cross each other
  • Do not apply flowers anymore
  • Too heavily woody and gnarled
  • Too tall


The blending of shrub mallow is possible both in autumn and in spring. It is important that there are no minus temperatures and the fresh interfaces are not exposed to blazing sun. Otherwise it may cause damage from frost and burns.
Although spring and fall are possible cutting times for the bush mallow, the measure should, if possible, be based on spring. In this course, before it comes to the first sprout of the mallow. The reason for the early blending lies in the protective function of shoots and even the dried leaves. Moths blended in autumn are therefore more sensitive to frost and require a very dense and multi-layered protection that prevents damage caused by frostbite. Who cuts in the fall, so must operate a little more effort.
Different in the spring. Freed from the old shoots and then properly groomed, the mallows can immediately drive out stronger and denser.

Subsequent care

Since the trimming of the shoots - with the exception of already dried plant parts - always represents a loss of leaf size and stored energy, the mallow needs some extra care after the blending. First and foremost, nutrients are important. These can be supplied in the form of well rotted compost, pond water, horse manure, vegetable manure or liquid fertilizer for flowering plants. Anyone who cultivates and pampers the plants in the tub can initially forego fertilizer through the fresh substrate. The same applies to the reaction in the garden, with appropriately enriched substrate.
When the mallow is cut in the spring, it is fertilized immediately afterwards. Of course, if cut in the fall, the additional nutrients may not be given until the following spring. Otherwise the hibernation would be disturbed and the shrub mallow could be damaged.


In addition to the fertilizer care should be taken to ensure that the mallow is sufficiently water. If it rains only slightly, it is necessary to use the watering can more frequently. If you want to fertilize evenly and at the same time water the mallows, you can use the already mentioned pond water, which is available anyway during the annual cleaning of the garden water. Of course this must not be treated with chemical additives.

Cut back the bushes

  • It is cut in the fall or in the spring. In milder regions you can cut back in the fall. There, where it gets really cold, you leave the plant until spring. The stems serve as a protective shield.
  • The bush mallow is trimmed vigorously. It remains a maximum of one third of the plant stand, the rest must go.
  • A strong cut is no problem for the plants, the flowers appear on this year's wood.
  • In older plants (from 4 years), you usually need a small pruning saw except for a normal secateurs.
  • If not cut, the stalks will become blunt and gnarled. There are significantly fewer flowers.
  • Although the Buschmalven after the pruning do not look very nice, but that is fast.
  • If you cut in the fall, winter protection is recommended.
  • The cut in the spring takes place after the last frost, before the expulsion of the mallow.
  • After the spring cut, work compost and organic fertilizer into the soil. This ensures many flowers and a long flowering time.

Cut hollyhocks

  • Many of the new varieties with their great flowers are unfortunately only two years old.
  • It is important to remove blooms and sick or withered leaves.
  • The stems fall in the fall mostly by itself and can be cut off.
  • If the plant does not drive again in the coming year, it can also be removed.
  • The plants often sow themselves when the seeds are allowed to ripen.

Cutting prairie salmon

  • Prairie salvos are popular perennials that look better year after year.
  • The perennial is cut close to the ground in spring.
  • Otherwise, remove any stains if no seeds are to form.
  • The plant has to put a lot of power into the formation of the seeds, so they are often lacking in the formation of other flowers. It is better to use only the last flowers for it.

Cut back the marshmallow

  • In the spring, remove the shoots that show frost damage.
  • Otherwise, you cut the branches back by about a third, so that the plant gets a nice dense growth.
  • Every few years a rejuvenation cut is made. All shoots that do not fit into the picture are cut out. One to two older shoots are removed to make room for new ones.
The blending of the mallow is not absolutely necessary, but can lead to an attractively dense growth and stimulate the flowering power of perennial varieties. In addition, even form cuts are possible if patience and sufficient caution are used. If in doubt, the scissors should still rest in order to do no damage to the bus mallow. With the right knowledge, however, even inexperienced hobby gardeners can easily cut each shrub mallow according to the variety characteristics.

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