Fight moss in the grass successfully

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Moose are very ancient, adaptable plants and spread like spores through the ferns. In the lawn, a moss with the funny German name Sparriger Runzelbruder (Rhytidiadelphus squarrosus) spreads, if the green carpet does not grow optimally and gaps are created in the turf. For sustainable moss control, it is therefore important to analyze the causes of disrupted lawn growth and to turn them off. Otherwise, it remains in a fight against the symptoms, so the moss grows so again and again and every year must be eliminated again. When moss accumulates in the lawn, it usually has at least one of the following reasons:

  • Nutrient deficiency (especially nitrogen deficiency)
  • heavy, compact soil, mostly in combination with waterlogging
  • unsuitable seed mixtures like "Berliner Tiergarten"
  • too little light, for example under treetops
  • too low pH value (the lawn does not grow optimally on soils below pH 5 (sand) and 6 (loam))
  • too deep and / or too rare cut

Before tackling the root causes of moss infestation, you should mechanically remove the moss from the turf. You do not necessarily need a scarifier - often it is enough to scratch the moss out of the grass with an iron rake.

Moss in the grass: how to eliminate the causes

The lack of nutrients as the most common reason can be eliminated relatively easily with the right lawn fertilizer and in future a little more fertilizer discipline. On high-quality fertilizer with high potassium content promotes the resistance and stability of the grasses. Optimal is an organic lawn fertilizer with iron content. With the fast and sustained nutrient uptake that this fertilizer ensures, grasses quickly grow leafy greens and close gaps in the sward as they grow more broadly. As a result, the lawn displaces moss and weeds on its own. The organic nutrient component has the advantage that it promotes the activity of microorganisms and thus the decomposition of the turf felt. So you can do without the scarifying in the best case in the future.

Fertilize the lawn

A fertilizer with a high potassium content increases the resilience of turf grasses

The annual nutrient supply prevents moss from spreading in the lawn again in the future. Especially important are fertilization in the spring with an organic lawn fertilizer and an autumn fertilization in early September with a kaliumsbetonten autumn fertilizer. Observations show that the slow and continuous nutrient delivery of organic lawn fertilizers promotes broad grasses growth, while low-cost mineral fertilizers make the grasses rise above all else.

Moist, loamy soil

Moose grow particularly well in permanently damp locations. Therefore, at least the top 10 to 15 centimeters thick soil layer should be as permeable as possible under the turf.

Lawns were

Moist soils can be improved by applying sand

If the soil is very loamy and moist, only regular sanding helps: Every spring, after the first mowing, apply a two to three centimeter layer of coarse building sand. The layer should be so high that the leaf tips of the grasses look out just one centimeter. If you repeat this every spring, a noticeable effect usually sets in after three to five years: The lawn looks more vital and the growth of moss decreases considerably.

The right seed mixture

The lawn seed is always a mixture of different types of grasses with different characteristics. The "Berlin Tiergarten" is well known to every hobby gardener as a grass mixture. However, very few people know that this is by no means a branded product with a precisely defined composition - on the contrary: every manufacturer can offer any variety of grasses as the "Berlin Tiergarten". Most of them use forage grasses from agriculture, as they are significantly less expensive than the specially bred grassgrass varieties. But they are also significantly more vigorous and hardly grow in width - the sward leaves enough gaps in which moss and weeds can spread.

Sow the lawn

When using lawn seeds you should not use a cheap mixture

If you have used a cheap mixture when creating your lawn, you should simply sprinkle it nationwide with a high-quality mixture. Mow the old lawn very briefly and scarify with deeply set knives. Then sow the new seed, spread a thin layer of lawn soil over the whole area and roll the surface thoroughly. Finally, sprinkle the new lawn and keep it evenly moist for six to eight weeks.

Problematic shady lawn

In the deep shadows of trees or buildings, lawn is always a stopgap, because it is usually not really tight and vermoost very fast. Even special shade grass is at best suitable for light shade under birch or robinia.

Lawn in the shade of trees

In the shade of trees, it does not have a lawn easy

Often the soil under trees is too dry rather than too wet, so if necessary, you should water in time and set the lawnmower not lower than five to six centimeters mowing height. So it leaves enough leaf area to capture the sparse light. Under beech or horse chestnuts, grass can not establish itself permanently. Here are dense, shady soil cover like ivy or Waldsteinie the better choice.

Acidified soil

Also, too low a pH of the soil can promote moss growth. The moss itself is extremely pH-tolerant and grows equally well on acidic and alkaline soils. In contrast, turf grasses on sandy soils with a pH below 5 and on clay soils below pH 6 no longer have ideal growing conditions - here the moss is more competitive. Incidentally, even the use of a moss killer such as ferrous sulfate can lower the pH of the soil. In addition, all lawns tend to over the years to acidify, because the soil enriched with humic acids from the decomposed clippings and because of the precipitate lime washed away and moved to deeper soil layers.

An important part of the cause research is therefore a test of the pH value. In the garden trade inexpensive test sets are available. Extract some soil down to a depth of about ten centimeters in several places and mix thoroughly in a jar. Then pour the soil sample with distilled water and check the pH value using the color scale. If it is below the limits mentioned above, you should apply carbonate of lime all over the area. Information on the correct dosage can be found on the packaging.

Prevent new moss infestation

The right care is the be all and end all for a moss-free lawn. Mow the area at least once a week during the entire growing season from March to November, but no shorter than four to five centimeters. In the summer, set up a lawn sprinkler in good time if precipitation does not occur, because lack of water weakens the grasses very much and literally "burns" the lawn in the event of prolonged dryness. In addition, you should provide the lawn in the spring with a long-term organic lawn fertilizer. Depending on the product, this lasts for three to six months, so you usually have to fertilize once more in the summer. If the grasses get enough nutrients, they form a dense carpet and do not give the Sparriger wrinkled brother a chance.

Video Board: How to Plant a yard and grass seed like a pro - Grow a new lawn, overseeding, yard & sod care tips.

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