Moss killers - Means that fight moss in the lawn


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Moss in lawn

Moss in the grass? Moss or lawn is the real motto, because where grass plants feel good, moss usually does not like to grow, and vice versa. Once the lawn has been strengthened, the moss can be easily fought with simple and non-hazardous means - on the other hand, moss is such a great plant that you could give it more room in bad grass areas, and there are also suggestions:
Where does the moss come from?
A question that should first be explored - if the moss grows right back, the whole moss control or moss destruction will not do you any good:
  • 1. If the moss in your lawn is growing so well that it will become more, it seems that there are conditions that make moss more appealing than turf.
  • 2. Weak grass plants lead to patchy vegetation, which can not defend itself very well against the penetration of foreign plants, which favored settlement of moss.
  • 3. Moss likes to grow in moist soil and in the shade. Wet soil under the lawn is formed when the turf does not develop a proper turf (loose rooting), but vegetates as a matted surface.
  • 4. Maybe the soil pH is not right. Grass plants grow best at pH values ​​around 7.0. PH levels below 5.3 mean that the soil is too acidic. Many mosses love such pH levels and gradually reduce the grass plants in the lawn.
Cultivate lawn
Therefore, the first measure against moss is always to change the conditions on the site so that grass plants grow better than moss:
1. Weak grass plants can be caused by several care mistakes:
  • Too rare and / or too deep mowing weakens the lawn, which can then no longer prevail against moss plants
  • If the moss has been fought, the lawn should be regularly and frequently mowed, with not too short cut
  • Regular raking removes dead plant parts and other residues, leaving the turf open and permeable
  • Inadequate or too abundant irrigation: too little water causes the grass plants to dry up, too much causes the roots to rot
  • Wrong watering: watering in the hot midday sun burns the grass plants, rather than once properly and pour little
  • Nutrient deficiencies also weaken the lawn, as does an oversupply of nutrients
  • The exact fertilizer requirement can be determined by soil analysis or adjusted by observation
  • Do not use synthetic mineral fertilizers, but organic fertilizer and compost
2. If the lawn is too much in the shade, it usually can not be changed much, but there are some things you can do:
  • Cut shadowy trees, so that the lawn gets more sun
  • Check assortment of applied lawn seeds
  • All grass plants grow well in the sun, but there are also grass plants that tolerate a good deal of shade
  • You could buy them and spend them as a sown
3. Wet soil under the lawn must be loosened, first by mechanical ventilation, z. B. by careful scarifying, raking, etc., it should also be incorporated just a little sand.
4. In the long term, a turf will become loose if it is allowed to develop a proper deep turf. A sward of well-growing grass plants is not repeatedly cut open by constant deep scarifying, but grows up to mowing and raking on the surface as undisturbed as possible, dead roots are disposed of by an army of soil organisms. Until such a self-regulating English turf has developed, it will take a while and may need some regrowth of possibly altered grass plants, but it's worth it. Not only in terms of appearance, also the care is reduced to mowing and raking and nutrient supply.
5. The pH of the soil is first measured and then adjusted correctly by liming if necessary.
Remove moss

Moss in lawn

When it's clear where lawn care will go in the future, you can tackle moss removal:
  • The classic means is gardening: matted lawn is "felted", first by scarifying, so criss-cross
  • Then raked thoroughly, as many plant residues as possible from the lawn down to the right to breathe
  • Moss pads that have survived this treatment are removed by handwork
  • Post-treatment with fertilizer and grass seeds, please use certified, suitable RSM seeds (standard seed mixtures)
Attention
For moss removal other, at first glance faster means are recommended, but have their disadvantages:
  • Moss can also be removed with ferrous sulfate, which kills it, but also turns it into black hazardous waste
  • Ferrous sulfate is not a particularly harmless substance, but toxic to highly corrosive
  • Upon contact, it is acutely irritating to corrosive to the skin and mucous membranes
  • Through skin contact and via the respiratory tract, the sulfate also enters the body immediately
  • From 20 mg per kg of body weight on the gastrointestinal tract, liver and cardiovascular system are damaged...
  • Sure, you will not consume, but there is no reason to throw such a substance on the lawn
  • This does not change anything if you are sold in the hardware store "iron fertilizer", whose active ingredient is also iron (II) sulfate
  • According to information from the Federal Environmental Agency, you do not need this dangerous substance as an iron fertilizer. There is no iron deficiency in our soils
  • The DIY chain Bauhaus reacted to the "Poison News" as early as 2012 and removed the fertilizer from its over-the-counter range
  • For moss control, the use of iron fertilizer (and other herbicides) alone is quite pointless - if the causes of moss growth are not eliminated, it will come back
  • Iron fertilizer also makes the soil more acidic, a pleasure for new moss, but even more stress for the grass.
  • Against mosses further diverse herbicides with maleic hydrazide + pelargonic acid are admitted to the dangers of these "gentle remedies" see "Destroying weeds in the garden / lawn without chemicals"
  • Acetic acid and other fatty acids also destroy the moss
  • As well as 2,4-D + Dicamba + ferrous sulfate, what the (you harm), you can read in the article "field winds / Zaunwinde destroy"
  • Incidentally, all of these remedies also have the small disadvantage of turfing on the grass, and any grass plant that gets some of the herbicides probably will not survive
The application of these funds is therefore only at first glance faster and more convenient than Harken and moss removal by hand. For the application of ferrous sulphate you need safety clothing, protective suit, safety gloves, goggles and mask with filter - but you have already de-moistened half of the lawn until you put it all on. Iron (II) sulphate should be applied in early spring, "so that the lawn can be greened afterwards" - obviously a noticeable loss of grass plants is to be expected. The active substance must be applied in exactly the prescribed amount, eg. B. 30 grams per square meter, certainly not so easy to do; if you want to spread the toxic substance out of consideration for your grass plants only on the moss, you have to directly wet the individual pads - there should go a lot faster, the moss pads rauszusupfen easy. After application, the lawn must not be walked on for at least a week, not even by your children or pets, otherwise there is a risk of poisoning; caring conservationists even recommend keeping the animals in the garden, squirrels, birds, hedgehogs, and the like from entering the lawn (unfortunately, without any indication of how to do this). You should keep wide distance between ferrous sulfate and terraces, paving, tubs, curbs when it comes up, ugly spots that usually never go away again. In current articles (end of 2015) and on order platforms on the Internet for the home garden a moss killer named Mogeton with active ingredient Quinoclamin is recommended or offered that is new to the market and keep the lawn according to the manufacturer for a whole season moss-free. It is not new to the market, the first registration was in 2009, but since the beginning of 2015 is no longer approved for use in the home and allotments, and the fines for banned applications can be quite interesting, so you should better keep your distance.
New view?
While you walk across the lawn on a nice spring day and remove moss pads, you might philosophize a bit about grass and moss and their (decoration) value, here are a few facts: Moose are among the oldest, living plants our earth, they can be several thousand years old and still remain beautiful green - because they reproduce by generational change, every year a new, young moss grows, soft and beautiful to run, and mowed it does not have to be. Forest soil is often covered in moss, but not to its detriment: mosses can absorb water only from the air and not from the soil, they protect the soil, without taking away the plants growing under / next to them, on the contrary, they save tens of times their weight Rainwater and fog and slowly release this water to the forest floor (the heath, the meadow). This contributes to the fact that forest soil is one of the best soils ever. As the lowest soil layer, mosses play an important role in the ecosystem; they are a habitat and food source for insects, small animals such as mice and hedgehogs and small reptiles, they prevent rapid drainage of surface water and soil erosion, they filter nutrients from the precipitation. The plants on or beside which they grow do not harm them.

moss

Common grasshopper moss Brachythecium rutabulum grows on lawns and meadows, a very rich in shape and variable moss, which shows green, yellow-green or gold-green colors (here in form: flickr.com/photos/tomjayhughes/6330787506). Or sparrowed crane moss Rhytidiadelphus squarrosus, a yellowish green, pale green and / or olive green moss (here as area: biolib.cz/cz/image/id35014/). Both mosses can form extensive and dense turfs. After what has just been described, it certainly sounds like it's better to simply grow the moss on a location that is not really good for turf anyway. The Japanese have been doing this for a long time: In Japanese Zen gardens, moss is often and often planted as a deepening element for Zen meditation, and the moss landscape is a symbol of calm, tranquility and longevity. You would also have your own environmental laboratory in the garden with the moss, the "natural bioindicator moss" can indicate many pollutants in the environment, from acidification (soil, water) to excessive sulfur in the air to heavy metals in the ecosystem, and It reacts faster to environmental pollution than seed plants because it grows without roots.
Next can moss
  • colonize extreme locations as a pioneer plant (make extremely damaged sites fertile again)
  • be used as an alternative pesticide because of its action against bacteria, fungi, snails
  • be mixed as a plant residue for soil loosening and improving the water storage capacity in the soil
  • in the potting soil for potted plants provide a particularly good root development
  • in some species (hammocks, peat moss, Widertonmoos) wooden houses and wooden boats seal
  • Moss has a disinfectant and antiseptic effect, in peat baths and peat wraps, wound compresses and ointments
  • TCM (Traditional Chinese Medicine) uses many types of moss, against inflammation, skin diseases and skin damage such as eczema and burns
Moss boards are very sought-after decorative items, at the moment nature moss is rather bought than foam on the basis of crude oil, 1 kg moss has a value around 40, - €. Because of its water storage capacity, it can initially be fitted with fresh plants and is later dried very long shelf life, to decorate architectural models and floral wreaths, model landscapes or nativity scenes. If you are looking for a really flashy living room deco, you could plant a slate with the moss of the year 2015. The light moss "Schistostega pennata" reflects light similar to a cat's eye, glowing gold-green, since this is based on a purely physical effect, the reflectors would also have to respond to artificial light sources in the living room. This is what it looks like: wadaphoto.jp/japan/images/oni17l.jpg.
Conclusion
Lawn without moss is nice, but only with the right care and above all only at the right location. If the location does not suit lawns, moss could be a nice alternative.

Video Board: Lawn Moss.

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