The Content Of The Article:
For a long time, it was fashionable to cultivate slender and long yam roses in the gardens that were hardy and prone to disease. However, this robustness was bought by losing the most beautiful, what a rose has to offer: the fragrance. Because the genes responsible for the fragrance are usually those that make a rose more susceptible. Now the natural roses are experiencing a renaissance and again fill the gardens with the most beautiful scents. For example, the moss rose:
The moss rose - a mutation towards beauty
The moss rose was caused by a mutation of the Provencerose, a rose with filled flowers. It makes small green leafy outgrowths that look like frizzy parsley on the edges, and has glands on the sepals, fruit stalks, and peduncles that make them look bemoasted.
This moss makes the special charm of these roses, which may look like the most old-fashioned of all rose species. Provided with many crosses of different color genes, the blossom delights with a rich palette of colors, from pure white to delicate pink to dark, almost violet tones. Modern varieties also offer soft yellow, fuchsia red or salmon pink. The lush, mostly filled blossom reaches a size that can be seen from afar.
Choose a suitable location
- Moss roses do not grow properly, but spread wide, the shrub likes to appear as if it is just falling apart. So not for the perfect decent garden, but beautiful as a single plant in the middle of the lawn or as a star of a loose group of plants.
- The more fertile the soil and the lighter the location, the more robust the moss rose. It is resistant to fungal diseases and is rarely attacked by mildew, if the location is well ventilated, that the moss rose never gets too hot even in summer. She is just a little bit sensitive to rain, but she looks pretty rainy as well.
Cut moss roses - the most important care
- When cutting, it depends on whether your moss rose blooms once or several times. The first moss roses derived from the centifolia were all single-flowered. There were also mutations with moss formation from other types of roses, such as the Damask rose, they are also attributed to the moss roses. As a result, and through crossbreeding with Remontanthybriden, tea hybrids and Portland roses also created multi-flowered moss roses, no other rose class contains as many different characters as the moss roses.
- The once-blooming shrub roses are cut back just like wild roses not every year. Because they only flower on perennial wood, so they need older branches, so that the flowers can develop. Nevertheless, you must ensure through targeted cut that the shrub in the overall structure of an air-permeable construction. Carefully and inconspicuously, something is thinned in the spring, so that no such dense natural growth is formed that mushrooms feel comfortable in it. After the cut, the shrub can be roamed better by the wind, although it can not actually be seen that the shrub was pruned. Every two to three years, the stick can be rejuvenated by cutting out old shoots altogether.
- Multi-flowered moss roses are cut back like the evergreen roses in spring when the heavy frosts are over safely. This cut should not be squeamish, only about a third of the total height is maintained. Nevertheless, this is not just just "chopped off", but deliberately cut. Branches that appear weak after winter are removed, outdated shoots and malformed newcomers. Overall, the stick after the cut should contain a balanced mixture of annual, biennial and older branches. The cut composition and the approach of the cut are based on the basic rules for the rose cut, which apply to all roses. In the summer, you can cut away all the flowers just after flowering in these roses, thus preventing the fruit set, a second flower florets can develop. Very fast-growing roses can be cut back a little in autumn to maintain a special shape.
- If you have found the right location for your moss roses, their care needs are easy to fulfill: In the period from the cut to the end of July is fertilized in three stages. In the middle of March, they can distribute some compost on the bed, followed by a fertilizer supplement with special rose fertilizer at the end of May and end of July. The fertilizer measures should be completed by the end of July, because otherwise the branches do not sufficiently lignify, which can cause frost damage in winter. Depending on the drought, water once or twice a week, but do not let the leaves get wet. A moist rose petal is prone to disease. Sometimes, after the cut, the shoots need to be supported, but there is also a special cut that produces a shrub that gets along almost without shoots.
- Before winter, the frost-prone roses are well packed, by accumulating with loose soil, which should form around the shrub about 20 centimeters high pile. This protects the lower buds (eyes) from frost. Shrub and climbing roses can also be completely packed depending on the climate, with frost protection fleece, burlap or jute. The importance of this winter protection is often underestimated, but it is quite possible that the whole plant freezes without this winter coat. This protection can then be removed mid-to-late March, if certainly no late frosts come more, is abgehäufelt.
- You love clarity? There are also moss roses without moss, through a new mutation, these traditionalists have regressed the corresponding characteristics.
- If you put more emphasis on exciting culinary experiences and vitamins, you renounce the second flowering and let the fruiting ripen to rosehip.