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Each fruit tree must be pruned, but for the cut of each fruit tree have their own laws. These are the peculiarities that you have to consider when cutting the nectarine tree.
Nectarine comes from peach
Specifically, the nectarine is simply a mutant peach that forms smooth rather than furry skin. Even the core of a peach kernel is barely distinguishable, and since smooth skin is a recessive genetic trait, peach trees may carry nectarines or a peach tree may emerge from the core of a nectarine.
If you once again come up against the theory that a nectarine is a cross between a plum and a peach, do not stop it, that's a legend. The nectarine is almost a peach, a stone fruit tree, for which slightly different cutting rules apply than for the pome fruit trees apple and pear:
Planting of nectarines
While pome fruit is strengthened, especially in the fruit-bearing branches, we generally have to deal with very vigorous trees in the case of stone fruit trees, whose growth is more likely to be slowed down. In contrast to other stone fruit trees, the peculiarity of the nectarine in terms of planting habits is that the tree bears flower buds along the whole branch. So he would develop fruits on the whole branch, especially for the young tree, of course, an unreasonable burden.
So nectarines should be pruned more immediately right from the beginning, they are like peaches otherwise much force in the task of bringing forth the next generation of plants (flowers and fruits). Because they are so strongly generative oriented, vegetative growth will suffer in doubt. This means that the development of the plant itself is a subordinate task for the nectarine, from which it should be supported right from the start.
They promote vegetative growth by reducing the yield and thinning the shoots. A nectarine that is allowed to grow as it would like would be covered with flowers and fruits all over, and would then stop growing and aging on those old shoots. So you cut the middle drive vigorously when planting, up to half when it is very high shot. So he should be forced to grow again and not only to produce fruit. The lateral shoots are taken away, where they compete, that is too close to each other.
Do not cut back at the nectarine on the trunk, but leave a stub of about 20 cm. This helps the plant in wound healing, the smaller cut surface can close faster. In addition, these stubs should ideally develop new long shoots that will bear fruit in the next year or two years after that. All shoots, which should be preserved, are reduced by about a third, in the lower part of the buds are thinned out. This stabilizes them because the load is reduced, and it is also about stimulating the tree to grow.
Care cut of nectarines
Also, the annual care cut is there to promote the vegetative growth in order to obtain a balanced and longer-lasting tree that does not age. In the case of strongly growing varieties of nectarines, all cutting measures can be carried out during the vegetation period, a shape cut in winter would only cause the tree to shoot out all the more strongly next spring.
But this is not the most important goal for a nectarine. The main thing is to stimulate the tree to develop a uniform growth. This is accompanied by the yield control: If you leave every year a tolerable amount of fruiting branches with the right amount of fruit on the tree, which helps the quality of the fruit and the tree as a whole in its development.
The first cuts are made after flowering, first you decide which shoots to keep. All other annual shoots that are too much are removed, except for the stump described above, the final decision about their fate falls after the harvest.
True and false fruit shoots - more tips
Incidentally, peaches and nectarines hold a surprise for you: in addition to the classic water shooters (thin shoots with few buds) and wood shoots (shoots that are occupied only with leaf buds) there are also real and false fruit shoots. True fruit shoots have flower buds to the right and left of the leaf bud, false fruit shoots have only one flower bud at the leaf insertion site. Of course it is important in the selection of the conservative shoots that you leave the real fruit shoots on the tree.
The fruit branches are now also cut something, so that they can be stimulated to new growth and bear the burden of their fruits. Then you can also thin out the buds in the remaining branch area, so you get beautiful large well-nectarines.However, this step can also be done later by thinning the small fruits.
After the harvest, the final shape cut will be made. Now you can rethink whether you have removed too few of the new shoots. Most of the time you can already see whether the remaining stubs will develop new favorable shoots or whether you will have to lend a hand here again. Otherwise, you can now thin out the crown altogether by removing older lots that grow unfavorably. Overall, your main focus should be on getting low priced one-year long shoots. They are the most fertile zones where the best qualities grow.