A new pot for the oleander


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Oleander (Nerium oleander) grows very quickly, especially at a young age, and must therefore be repotted every year, as far as possible, until the growth calms down and it enters the flowering phase. There are also varietal differences: The varieties with simple red or pink flowers grow the strongest, yellow-flowering varieties with filled flowers the weakest. They remain smaller in old age. The ideal time to repot is spring - when the plant is still in full-time season, the growth spurt from the new earth is strongest. If necessary, repotting is basically possible throughout the season, even just before wintering.

Oleander likes to have it wet

The oleander is a Flachwurzler and grows at the natural site in changeable, sometimes flooded floodplains with rather heavy, calcareous clay soils. From this one can derive two things:

1. The ideal planter should not be deeper than wide, as the root system of the oleander grows more in width than in depth. Choose a jar that is only slightly larger than the old one, otherwise the root ball will not be evenly rooted. In addition, such vessels are more stable than narrow, higher tubs. The new pot should offer the root ball on each side no more than two fingers more space.
2. The classical humus-rich potting soil is unsuitable for oleander. He needs a loamy, structurally stable substrate with moderate humus content. Oleander experts usually mix their own soil. A well-suited substrate is obtained by using commercially available potted plant soil, which is enriched with clay at a ratio of 1: 5 and additionally lime-dried with a handful of garden lime to maximize the soil's natural location to exactly imitate.

Oleander with rooted bale

If the potting soil is completely rooted, you should repot its oleander

Bind together large plants before repotting

You can start repotting with a suitable pot and substrate. First put a piece of pottery on the vent hole to prevent the earth from being washed out, and fill in a thin layer of substrate below. On a drainage layer of expanded clay, you can do without the Oleander - he tolerated in contrast to most other potted plants temporarily waterlogged.

First, tie large oleanders loosely together with a rope, so that the shoots do not get in the way of repotting and are not damaged in the heat of the moment. The Austopfen old plants is sometimes quite difficult. It's best to have a couple by holding one bucket and the other pulling out the oleander at the bottom of the trunk. The root ball will come out of the pot more easily if you water the plant about an hour before. If the roots are already starting to grow out of the drain hole, you should cut them off before tamping. Once the bale has grown together with the pot, you can remove the roots from the pot wall with an old bread knife.

Put oleander in tall coaster

Oleander in the pot

Oleander have a high water requirement, so the pots need coasters

Then place the root ball in the new pot so deep that the surface is one to two fingers wide under the edge of the pot. If the oleander is too high in the pot, casting is difficult because the water runs over the edge. Then fill the space between the pot wall and root ball piece by piece with fresh soil and gently press it with the fingertips until it is completely filled.
Best place the new pot in a slightly higher coaster. Oleander has a very high water requirement in the summer - and no problem with it, when the pot is up to a third of its height in the water.

Video Board: The oleander.

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