Oleander cut - time and instructions

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Oleander cut - time and instructions: plant

The oleander (botanical: Nerium oleander) is an evergreen, Mediterranean flowering plant and is one of the Hundsgiftgewächsen. All plant parts are poisonous. On the terrace, on the balcony or in the garden, it spreads with fragrant yellowish, white or pink flowers a wonderful southern feeling. So that you can enjoy the wonderful colors and scents every year anew, the oleander must be cut regularly at the right time. We will explain you which types of cuts are suitable for the Nerium oleander and what you have to consider.


In general, it is not really necessary to cut an oleander plant. However, the bush or tree in the bucket simply becomes too large over the years or begins to edge. Sometimes, the oleander blooms in the winter months in too warm conservatories or apartments, so that over time it loses its power and no longer drives out. Then he should be cut back so he can drive well again. It should be noted, however, that the oleander flowers usually only on two-year shoots.

Caution - toxic!

Since all plant parts of the oleander plant are very poisonous, you must not leave the clippings unattended; especially not when children and pets are nearby! When cutting, wear gloves and old clothing to protect against the leaking toxic juice, which can cause allergic reactions and poisoning.


After purchasing an oleander, experts usually recommend waiting two years before working on the plant with scissors. Thereafter, the cut can be made after or before the hibernation of the plant. Since the oleander trains new shoots in spring, spring is better suited, my experts. In the autumn before the plants are cleared, no pruning should be done better, even if it seems sensible for lack of space. Since the roots and above-ground shoots of the oleander are active all year round, they would react after the pruning with increased budding. A circumstance that must be avoided in winter quarters. The fresh shoot costs the oleander too much and unnecessary power. Moreover, these shoots would not survive in the spring.
A year-round cut is also possible if throughout the year scattered in the crown of Oleanders single shoots that hinder the expulsion of fresh, new shoots. Likewise, you can always remove withered flowers. These are not cut off, but just plucked. Many hobby gardeners and houseplant lovers know the plucking of withered flowers and leaves under the term "plastering".

Before cutting

  • wear long gloves
  • Apron or other protective clothing
  • Check cutting tools for cleanliness

Cutting types and instructions

In principle, a distinction is made between a complete pruning, which is also referred to as a rejuvenation cut or radical cut, and a conservation cut, which is familiar to many hobby gardeners as Auslichtungsschnitt.

radically cut

You should only do a radical cutting if your oleander plant is either too much or too high. In older plants, a rejuvenation cut is often necessary so that they can grow back bushy again. Manual:
  • Cut the oleander completely back to 15 or 20 cm.
  • This is called in technical jargon "put on the stick". As a result, he is doing well again.
  • However, it will take a year or two years for the plant to resume flowering.
  • With this radical cure, the tips of the withered inflorescences will also be cut off. In them are the plants for new flowers.

preservation section


The maintenance or Auslichtungsschnitt is a gentle cutting method for the oleander. In addition, there is also no flowering season. When conserving, you should always keep in mind the desired shape of the oleander plant. Because you can educate the oleander as a high stem, half stem, quarter stem or bush. Instructions for young plants:
  • The best way to start with the cutting measures already in the youth stage of the oleander plant.
  • Once the plants pulled from a shoot cuttings are too long.
  • To bring them into a bushy shape, cut the shoot back to about 10 to 12 cm.
  • This is usually enough to get a good engine frame.
  • After a short time new shoots appear, which can bloom in the same year.
  • Likewise at the base over the years new shoots develop, which are responsible for the bushy growth of the oleander.
Tip: In garden centers, oleander plants are often offered that are not single, but are the same with several cuttings in a pot.Even if the plants look nice, the cutting measures are a bit difficult here. It's best to pick out the strongest cuttings and place them in a new jar, or you can give each cutty its own jar and pull up several oleander plants with different growth forms. Instructions for older plants:
  • When cutting, note that flower buds are formed the previous year.
  • Completely remove dead branches so that the plant can not lose much of its inner surface.
  • It makes sense, even a few barren branches directly cut off directly above the ground.
  • Similarly, cross-growing or overhanging shoots should be eliminated and if necessary, be taken back to the old wood.
  • This creates space for new shoots without the oleander being able to condense too much.
  • Because if it grows too close, its shoots can hinder its growth and also the flowering would be more limited.
Basically, a cut up to the old wood produces vegetative oriented shoots. Cut in the flowering region, however, are produced quickly blooming, short shoots. Of course, finding the right relationship requires some practice. Tip: Do not cut down to the bud area, but only above it.
Inflorescences themselves are not cut off, because from them can drive twice new flowers. If the plant no longer looks so beautiful because of the withered flowers, they simply pluck the withered petals slightly without damaging the remaining inflorescence. Once the inflorescences are consumed, the oleander repels them by itself. If bean-like seed pods are formed, you can remove them, as the seedling of the plant only costs unnecessarily much power.
With its bright and fragrant flowers, the oleander is one of the most popular potted plants, which, in addition to care measures such as watering and manuring, also produce abundance of flowers again and again through regular cutting. In the radical pruning, the oleander is completely cut down except for the finger-thick branches, while in the maintenance section, the younger shoots and flower buds stop and the old wood is lightened. But be careful with all cutting work on Oleander. The plant is very poisonous! Oleander does not have to, but can be cut back. This serves the Auslichtung. The shoots are cut back into the old wood.

Worth knowing soon

Oleander cut as a nursing measure

  • When oleanders get old, signs of aging appear. The lower leaves turn yellow and fall off, the whole plant is frosted.
  • It is important to avoid this: For a compact growth, it is essential to prune the plant regularly.
  • By a neat cut the oleander is rejuvenated. Mostly he looks sparse after the cut, but drives well again.
  • If you cut in the spring, the oleander does not bloom this year.
  • The better option, instead of cutting back radically, is to make something better every year.
  • This means cutting off one or the other shoot directly on the ground, either in early spring or when grazing in the fall.
  • Even bare shoots or those that impair growth habit need to be removed. You always cut right at the neck and nothing stops.
  • You can also rejuvenate oleander. This one cuts back radically. Only three to five well-distributed, young and strong shoots stop.
  • They are cut to 10 to 20 cm height. It also cuts in old wood.
Tip: When cutting oleander always caution is required. The plant is poisonous and the juice leaking from the cut can be dangerous. He should never get in the eye or the mouth. You should also wash your hands properly afterwards.

Location after the winter break

  • With the beginning of the gardening season and frost-free nights, the oleander plants can be planted outdoors or potted in their new quarters.
  • Especially after pruning, the often young shoots are sensitive to direct sunlight, especially at lunchtime.
  • A half-shady place and enough water ensure perfect growth in the summer months.
  • If the oleander is to receive a location in the soil, it must be ensured that the correct garden soil is used when planting.
  • Quality soil usually already contains long-term fertilizer in the form of white solid beads.
  • If this is not the case, then it is advisable to give it during the implantation with plenty of water.
  • Choose here also the right place for the plant after the already mentioned advice for potted planting.

Fertilization and care

  • The origin of the oleander ranges from southern Spain to the Mediterranean.
  • Since the plant spends there in the soil throughout the year, it draws the necessary nutrients through a wide root network.
  • Due to the Kübelhaltung in this country of oleander relies on regular fertilization.
  • A nutritious nutrient-rich fertilizer should therefore be present if possible.

Propagation and hibernation

  1. Choose a young tender green shoot.
  2. Cut 15-20 cm, starting at the tip of the shoot, at an oblique angle.
  3. For a quick rooting, cut the shoot on the neck approx. 2 cm in the middle diagonally to the diameter.
  4. Store in an opaque container with sufficient water and partial shade.
  5. A first result occurs after 4-6 weeks.


During the winter months, the oleander plant should be kept in a cool and dark place. The ideal temperatures are between 5 and 10° C. Since the oleander tends in this time to mite and aphid, it should not be accommodated in direct living spaces if possible. A frost-proof location in cellar rooms or separate winter gardens serves this purpose.

Video Board: How to Grow Oleander/Kaner From Cuttings(With Update Video).

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