Oleander propagate through cuttings / offshoot - instructions in 7 steps

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The dream of a whole bunch of lavishly blooming oleander does not have to be realized at the expense of the purse. The Mediterranean flowering wood can be easily propagated by cuttings. With a little patience you grow up on this way young rose laurel, which are equal to the beauty and flowers of the mother plant. Properly done, oleander grown from offshoots will put on their first flower dress within one to two years. How the plan succeeds, the following instructions in 7 steps to the point.

The best time

As an evergreen flowering shrub, an oleander can, strictly speaking, be propagated with cuttings at any time of the year, as it does not move to a perfect state of growth. Nevertheless, during the dark, cold season, it is not advisable to start the process. The prevailing lack of light causes the young plants elongated, miserable Geiltriebe, which can be prevented only by means of an elaborate additional lighting.
If you do a pruning in the spring, the clippings will provide you numerous shoots that have the potential to cut. Nevertheless, this season is still a second choice and should only be used to meaningfully use the valuable residual wood.
The ideal time window for the proliferation of oleander by offshoot is open from May to August. In this growth and flowering phase, the floral life pulsates to the tips of the branches, from which the later process of rooting benefits.

Cut cuttings professionally

At the Oleander every shoot from the herbaceous tip to the thick, lignified base is suitable for cutting. Thus, you are free whether you cut out a complete branch from the bush or just remove head cuttings. As long as the shoot is healthy and free of pests, it will drive out roots. Please bear in mind that all cutting work has Oleander's high toxicity in all parts. Wear long-sleeved clothing and protective gloves, as mere skin contact with the toxic sap may cause irritation and redness. How to cut an offshoot correctly:
  • Sharpen and disinfect knives or scissors
  • Cut the selected oleander branch into sections of 20 to 25 cm in length
  • Slightly sharpen the lower end of an offshoot so as not to confuse the polarity later
  • Defile each cutting except for a few leaves
  • Dunk the interfaces in rooting powder
Although every healthy wood on Oleander is suitable for cutting, there is still a difference. One- and two-year-old, only half-ligninous shoots do not put their patience to the test in rooting by far than a fully woody offshoot. The long waiting time for rooting make up the wood of a rose laurel by the fact that they usually thrive in multiple stems, whereas head cuttings tend to branch hesitantly.
Tip: To experience the small miracle of rooting up close, place the cuttings in a transparent container with soft water. To prevent rot, add a small amount of charcoal and place the offshoots in a partially shaded, warm location. If the rhizomes have reached a length of 1 to 2 cm, they are potted according to this manual.

Prepare pots with the right seed substrate


In order for a young oleander to develop a well-formed root system right from the start, it depends on the right shape of the seed box. As a rootworm, the root system of a rose laurel is more broad in breadth than in depth. Choose a pot that is as deep as it is wide. In addition, at least one bottom opening should be present as a water drain, so that no waterlogging forms. Expert preparation also requires that you lay a pottery shard with the curvature above the hole in the bottom of the pot.
Substrate for adult oleander is unsuitable for propagation by cuttings. In order for the hoped root strands to form, a lean soil is advantageous. If an offshoot encounters a concentrated load of nutrients directly at the interface, it sees no reason to let roots sprout, since the supply is already ensured anyway. In nutrient-poor substrate, however, the growth of the roots is a matter of survival and progresses accordingly quickly. These options are available:
  • Commercially available soil for cultivation, emaciated with a little fine sand
  • Pikiererde, also mixed to 30 percent with sand
  • A mix of Kokoshum and Perlite
In practice, a purely mineral substrate has proven effective as an effective solution, for example expanded clay, vermiculite, lava granules or zeolite.
Tip: Clever hobby gardeners put a thin layer of sieved compost between the drainage and the lean potting soil as an additional incentive for the cuttings to grow strong roots.

Skillfully spin off offshoot

In order to ensure that the extremely fine capillaries at the interfaces of the cuttings are not damaged, please drill each planting hole in the substrate with a stick or wooden stick. Only then do you put the shoot in half to two thirds of its length in the ground and press it all around for a good ground closure.
Pour the substrate in soft, room-warm water. Since high humidity promotes rooting, place each seed pot under a glass hood. Alternatively, put two wooden sticks in the ground and put a transparent plastic bag over them. The spacers are responsible for ensuring that there is no contact between the plastic and the cutlery because it can cause rot.

Observe site conditions

The closer the site conditions are to Mediterranean light and temperature conditions, the more successful is the propagation of oleander with cuttings. Therefore, assign your pupils a partially shaded, warm place. Although a Nerium oleander belongs to the sunbathers, no direct sunlight is desired in this phase. In addition, the location should be free of cold drafts. Warm temperatures of 20 degrees Celsius and higher are among the most important premises for the growth of young plants.

Care during rooting


Properly cut, potted and placed, there are best prospects for a successful course of offspring without wasting. Prudent care also makes an important contribution to making an offshoot into a lavishly flowering shrub. This is how it works:
  • Ventilate the cover daily to prevent formation of mold
  • Water regularly without causing waterlogging
  • Do not fertilize cuttings
Since oleanders are lime-tolerant, you can choose to use either normal tap water or collected rainwater. Allow the substrate surface to dry slightly between each watering. Since excess moisture interferes with rooting during this phase of growth, do not leave excess water in the coaster.
Tip: By unwinding a rooted headstall once, you bring about a more vital branching. This measure does not apply if you want to educate the young oleander to the high tribe. Juvenile plants grown from sticks will thrive on their own accord and will not be prickled either.

Repotting made easy

While the mother plant takes its time with annual growth, its offshoots are making good progress at first. Consequently, experience has shown that the potting pot is already fully rooted at the end of the summer. Now is the time to repot the young rose laurel. The first rhizomes grow out of the bottom opening as a signal for the right time.
Now grab a sturdy bucket, which in turn is perfectly shaped for a shallow root. The substrate may now be more nutrient-rich. By mixing container potting soil and garden soil in the ratio 1: 3, you offer a vegetatively propagated rose laurel the best growing conditions. Ideally, add a handful of rock flour or garden lime. Here's how to make a good pot:
  • Knead the plastic seed pot to release the root ball from the edge of the tube
  • Let the young plant slide out of the pot without pulling hard
  • In the new bucket fill the recommended substrate to half height
  • Press a hollow into the ground with your fist in the middle
  • Plant the rose laurel as deeply as before and sprinkle
Adult oleanders can dispense with drainage because they have a high water requirement, especially during flowering, and are no longer sensitive to waterlogging. Before the Mediterranean beauty now occupies a sunny spot, it should acclimatize to the partially shaded, warm location for a period of 8 to 10 days. If the new rose laurel comes from a head cuttler, you can look forward to the first flower habit within 1 to 2 years. Olderder propagated from the wood of a stick will stretch you a bit longer on the torture until the first flower spectacle.
Through cuttings multiply your most beautiful oleander in a straightforward way. Between May and August, the best time to cut off offshoots with a length of 20 to 25 cm. Well protected against the poisonous sap, you can use any wood as a cutting. Rooting progresses swiftly when using lean substrate for seedling. Likewise, a moist, warm microclimate under a transparent hood contributes to the successful course. In a partially shaded, warm location, the care is limited to regular pouring and ventilation of the cover. The end of this guide in 7 steps marks the repotting in a new bucket with fresh soil as soon as the seed pot is rooted through roots.

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