Oleander overwinter - Instructions & Tips

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Oleander overwinter - Instructions & Tips: oleander

However, a few varieties can easily survive the winter outdoors in Germany, provided they receive appropriate winter protection.

Oleander overwinter

  • Leave the bucket in the open as long as possible. The plants are hardy to - 5 ˚C. So fast does the oleander take no harm. A maximum of a few leaves fall off.
  • Since oleander is evergreen, it needs a bright wintering place.
  • It should be cool, between 5 and 15 ˚C max.
  • It is important to air the room regularly! The humidity must not be too low!
  • Only a little is poured, but the planting bale should not dry out completely!
  • Always do a finger test first. The earth must be well dried on the surface!
  • Not fertilize!
  • Check regularly for pests! Sticky spots and points on the leaves indicate scale insects, spun shoot tips on spider mites. Both pests love the oleander and are the most common cause of plant damage in winter.
  • If necessary, initiate countermeasures and check again and again that the pests will not come back!
  • Put it back into the open as early as possible, if protected! Oleander can go straight to the sun, do not have to get used to it slowly.

Care mistakes and tips of the editors

If the plant is brought too late to the winter quarters, this can be at the expense of early flowering. At temperatures below - 5 ˚C the inflorescences freeze. Some frost is good for oleander. So you put the bucket protected at the first frosts, on a warm wall and can cover it a bit. Only set in permafrost and heavy frosts. This shortens the difficult wintering time indoors.
  • If wintering oleander near freezing, they can also be darker.
  • The colder the location, the darker it can be!
  • The warmer the room, the brighter it has to be!
  • In warm wintering a plant lamp is favorable, otherwise it comes to long, much too thin Austrieben.Diese shoots completely remove!
  • Do not pour too much!

Nursing claims of the rose laurel

In most regions of Germany the Rosenlorbeer is cultivated primarily in the tub. Here, the earth should be the actual home of Oleander, the Mediterranean adapted. On pure peat or the addition of peat should be avoided. Normal garden soil mixed with clay and compost, on the other hand, is very well suited.
In potted plants should always be taken to ensure that the pot is sufficiently large enough that the roots can develop well.
Since the young plants grow relatively quickly, they have to be repotted every year in a correspondingly larger vessel. The best time for this is spring. Older specimens are then repotted only when needed, at the latest when the root mass fills the entire pot. This can be after 5 or possibly only after 10 years of the Falls.
If at some point the largest size of the planter is reached, you can cut back the roots when repotting and then put the oleander back into the same pot. At the same time as rooting, you should also cut back some shoots in the upper part of the plant to create a balance.
Tap water is best for pouring. Since the oleander has no problem with wet feet, it does not matter to him if there is always some water in the saucer, it would even be advantageous. Fertilize potted plants in the same way as the oleander in the garden. Only the dosage of the fertilizer would have to be adjusted accordingly.


The rose laurel should be blended regularly to avoid internal scarification. As a result, the oldest shoots should always be removed. The best time for this is spring. Bald shoots can also be removed in the fall. A Auslichtungsschnitt can be made throughout the year. If the plant is already shabby, a radical pruning is advisable.

Outdoor hibernation

In milder regions of Germany, the oleander can also hibernate outdoors. However, the respective location should be sheltered from the wind, for example, on a wall and roofed. If the plant is in the bucket, it should be placed on a substrate that is at least 5 cm thick, for example, to protect the roots against ground frost.
The planter should be wrapped with a coconut mat, jute, bubble wrap or bubble wrap to protect it from frost. The branches can be tied together with a string of sisal and the shoots and leaves covered with a light and air permeable fleece. The root area can also be covered with a thick layer of mulch. Thus protected the oleander can defy temperatures of maximum -5 degrees Celsius.

Hibernation in the house

Before you bring the oleander to winter quarters, you should check it for a possible pest infestation and eliminate it if necessary. For accommodation, unheated greenhouses or conservatories are ideal. Garage and basement are usually too dark.
The winter quarters should be as bright, airy and cool as possible at temperatures between 5 and 10 degrees Celsius. Too warm wintering may favor a louse attack.
If the branches are too bulging for the respective room, they can be tied together with a sisal cord.
The water requirement is much lower in winter. The cooler the room, the less it needs to be poured. However, the earth should not dry out. Too much water would also favor a pest infestation. Fertilizer should be completely eliminated in winter.
The winter quarters should be well ventilated on frost-free days, at least once a week. In addition, attention should be paid to sufficient humidity.

Pests and diseases of this plant

Yellow leaves on older plants are usually normal. If the rose laurel loses relatively many leaves in a short time, a lack of nutrients may be the cause. A loss of leaves inside the plant usually indicates a lack of water.
Among the pests that can be attacked by the rose laurel are scales and spider mites. Crop protection agents based on rapeseed oil can be helpful here.
The so-called Oleanderkrebes are often found on plants imported from the south. Signs of this bacterial disease are hump-like changes on the leaves and dark cracks on the shoots. This disease can be controlled only by a radical pruning to healthy wood.
Oleander - nice but poisonous
The oleander is a particularly decorative ornamental plant that rewards a proper attitude or care with palm-sized, magnificent flowers. When buying, you should pay attention to quality and buy such plants as possible from a breeder. Despite all the splendor one should not forget that oleander is poisonous in all plant parts.
The only downside to the beautiful plant is that oleander is not hardy. He does not survive Central European winter outdoors and is therefore cultivated in the planter. Oleander must be overwintered according to his claims, which is not always easy. On the one hand, not all plant lovers have the appropriate bright and temperate quarters and on the other hand, the Oleander is in case of improper hibernation very threatened by pest infestation. Especially spider mites like to fall on the plants and can cause great damage. So that does not happen, here's a guide to the proper hibernation:
The oleander is a very popular container plant. Who can provide her no suitable winter quarters, should look for varieties that are very cold tolerant. There are now several varieties. These can often be overwintered outdoors. Prerequisites are that you live in a reasonably favorable region (if possible wine-growing climate) and protect the plant and the tub.

Video Board: Gardening Tips : How to Prune Oleander.

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