Oleander tree: Information about care and cutting | Is he hardy?

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The oleander can easily be propagated through cuttings. For this, the flowers cut after flowering can be used. When using cuttings, proceed as follows:
  • remove lower leaves
  • put in a glass with water
  • put in a warm and bright place
  • avoid full sunlight
  • After some time roots form
  • then plant in tub
  • from autumn in a bright cool frost-free room
  • do not stand in the blazing sun in spring
  • Fertilize and water regularly from spring
Who pulls an oleander from cuttings, can expect after two to three years with a dense flowering in the fast-growing plant.
Tip: In a young oleander plant from a cuttings should be taken in the first year that this is not exposed to the first night frosts in the fall.


The oleander is only partially hardy, that is, light frost can tolerate the plant, but should be better protected in the local latitudes. Above all, the shoots are endangered when it gets cold. If they die due to frost, the plant will be re-planting next year, but there will be no flowering since the buds form on the shoots before winter. Therefore, the oleander should be overwintered as follows:
  • the evergreen plant needs a bright location
  • this should not be too warm in winter
  • a corner in the heated living room is therefore not suitable
  • a bright hallway or bright stairwell is ideal
  • Also an unheated conservatory suitable
  • Oleander is also decorative in winter due to its leaves
  • change before the first frost in autumn
  • before moving on to pests
  • remove old flowers
  • Water only moderately in winter quarters
In winter, cool temperatures up to 15° Celsius are ideal for the plant. The darker the room, the cooler the temperatures may be. However, ideal wintering temperatures are between 2° and 10° Celsius, otherwise there is a risk that the plant will be attacked by scale insects.
Tip: If you can not find a suitable place for winter accommodation, you can place the bucket on styrofoam, wrap the entire plant with bucket in the plant fleece and place it in a sheltered corner on a terrace or balcony. Slight frosts to -5° C, the oleander survives unprotected.



The oleander should be repotted regularly, at least every two to three years. This is not only related to its growth in size, in this way the plant also receives a fresh substrate in the bucket. The ideal time to repot is when the plant moves out of the winter quarters back outside. When repotting, the following should be noted:
  • choose a new, slightly larger planter
  • Carefully remove the oleander from the old bucket
  • prepare new pot with drainage
  • fill in fresh soil in half
  • Liberate roots from old earth
  • Dip the root ball briefly in water
  • then put in new bucket
  • Fill in remaining soil and press down
  • water adequately
Tip: Depending on how tall the plant is, it is helpful to do the work in pairs. One can hold the bucket while the other carefully removes the plant. Also in this work due to the toxicity of the plant gloves and long clothes should be worn.

Care mistakes, diseases or pests

Unfortunately, there are also some mistakes in the care that could harm the oleander. So he can suffer from calcium deficiency, which is indicated by pale leaves. However, these also occur if too little fertilizer is given and the plant thus lacks nutrients. However, if the leaves turn yellow in summer and fall off, then this is no cause for concern, because this is the natural leaf shedding when changing the leaves. Brown margins on the leaf margin occur when the oleander stands in spring directly after hibernation in the blazing sun. But even here, new leaves grow quickly. At pests the following are known:
  • likes to be attacked by scale insects
  • especially in winter quarters
  • Check regularly for insects
  • wash off with infestation
  • possibly change location
  • Use insecticides

Video Board: How to Grow Oleander from Cuttings | Growing Kaner Nerium Oleander Cuttings and Care in English.

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