Parsley - Sowing, Care and Harvest - Tips for Freezing


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The umbelliferous parsley has been one of the pillars of German cuisine for so long that generations of German parsley on potatoes or as a garnish on the restaurant plate have been considered God-given. God-given, the healthy and tasty parsley will not come to you, therefore, you will learn the most important for sowing, care and harvest of parsley:
Which parsley should it be?
Nobody knows their original homeland (the place of their development), in our case parsley has definitely not developed, the primeval parsley has immigrated to us (by human), probably from the eastern Mediterranean or West Asia. When that was, one does not know exactly, in the Middle Ages parsley had arrived already with us, depending on the point of view one might regard them as native (plants migrate just as eagerly as humans, who only consider plants as native, which are present have developed us ends up with a few grasses). Parsley has been bred here since the Middle Ages, first to the curly parsley. This was urgently needed - when the parsley from the monastery garden conquered the kitchen gardens, there were numerous deaths, because it was confused with the very similar looking, poisonous dog parsley. Since then, parsley has been making a career, in curly and smooth and as a root in the greens, throughout Europe and throughout the Mediterranean. There are two subspecies, several types and many varieties:

  • 1. Leaf parsley, Petroselinum crispum subsp. crispum, is said to produce many leaves with great taste. In two groups, smooth and curly parsley, each with several cultivars (see "planting parsley - growing in the garden and on the balcony"). The smooth leaf parsley is the closest to the natural wild form, should be easier to cultivate than curly parsley and develop a stronger flavor. If you need deco-parsley, you can immerse yourself in the variety of curly parsley, where there are many types, taste and decoration can combine. The finest Krause shows the "fern leafed" (parsley), as finely curled applies "double / triple curled" (extra frill, moss ruffle), coarse Krause shows the "curled" or "perlé" (type Paramount), in addition to these groups You could also choose the "crimp strength" from a scale of 1-9.
  • 2. Root parsley, Petroselinum crispum subsp. tuberosum, of which the lowest part is found in every greens. Root growth plays the main role here, the root is much thicker than that of leaf-grown parsley. But the leaves are just as edible as with a parsley leaf and can also be used for seasoning. If you want to grow healthy parsley as a home gardener, it is certainly not a bad idea to use organic seeds. Organic seed has several advantages:
  • BIO seed is produced without chemical fertilizers
  • Also on introduction of pesticides z. B. in the seed coat is omitted
  • This is not only safer for later consumption:
  • Conventional seed pickling often uses neonicotinoids, which are considered to be one of the causes of worldwide bee mortality
  • Organic seed must not be produced by genetic engineering
  • With its use, you also make a statement against patents on plants
  • They are awarded for "new seed" and cause huge problems
  • For example, farmers are not allowed to just re-issue patented seed, but have to buy it new every year
  • This is not only a bitter blow against traditional peasant crafts, but costs the existence of farmers in poor countries
  • Organic seed is monitored by independent inspection bodies, which (unlike exhaust control authorities) are really active
The above-mentioned cultivars are all available as organic seeds, the basic characteristics remain the same in the organic version. In the meantime, due to increased demand, there is a good selection of organic seeds on the market, with the majority of producers offering well-tried varieties (as opposed to new, not necessarily taste-optimized varieties).
Location
Parsley enjoys sunny locations, which you will notice later on the aroma. It would be perfect if this sunny location is just a bit shaded if just bright midday sun "bounces" on the parsley. Parsley also grows in the sparse semi-shade, in case of doubt it is slightly less spicy. What is not necessarily bad, in contrast to a parsley grown in sterile greenhouse substrate is a parsley even in proper soil probably always a taste revelation...
This soil may be humus rich and slightly moist. Parsley tolerates quite a lot of nutrients compared to most southern herbs, which thrive best in dry lean soil.But please, so loosely that waterlogging will never form, which could make the root of parsley rot. "Princess Parsley" does not get along with every neighbor, lettuce she does not want at all, other salads also rather not. She does not like herself the least, parsley is only supposed to return to the same location after four years. To beans, peas, strawberries, fennel, potatoes, garlic, cabbage, corn, chard, horseradish, carrots, rhubarb, beetroot, salsify, celery, spinach, zucchini and onions parsley is "neutral", cucumbers, leeks, tomatoes are considered Good neighbors, radishes and radishes are supposed to protect the parsley with its scent even from pests.
sowing
needs patience and a lot of information:
Parsley are true slow germs, their seed shells contain furocoumarin, germination inhibitors. These germ inhibitors are "given" seeds, so that the germination takes place only under favorable conditions. Behind the germ inhibitor hides the famous "bitchiness" of the parsley when germinating, in a not all that uncomplicated mechanism:
  • The germ inhibitors must be degraded or washed out to germinate
  • Or, in turn, be inhibited in their action, a typical antagonist responsible for this is the plant hormone gibberellic acid
  • There are other gibberellins that promote germination and are present in seeds, e.g. be formed reinforced after exposure to cold
  • Furthermore, measures promoting germination may promote the degradation of germ-inhibiting substances or stimulate the development of germ-promoting hormones:
  • Scrape seed coat and allow to swell in water = washing out of germ inhibitors
  • Irradiation with short-wave red light (bright red) should stimulate germ-promoting plant hormones
  • Stratification (cold action) is supposed to stimulate germ-promoting plant hormones
  • In the case of parsley, the small number of usually germinating seeds should also be caused by the fact that usually a large part of the seeds is deaf (no embryo)
  • When embryos are present, usually a large part of them should be immature and need a ripening period
No wonder that parsley needs 4 to 6 weeks to germinate, before you click on the next article on growing better plants, followed by a few tricks to "crack the parsley problem":
  • Put the parsley seeds in a tea strainer
  • The tea strainer comes in Humifix solution for about 90 minutes (apply yourself or buy eg at abtei-fulda.de)
  • So that the natural stain catches all seeds, stir well several times
  • Then moisten the filter paper (coffee filter) briefly, wrap the seeds loosely, place on sand in a plastic container with (closed) lid
  • Set the container bright and warm, without direct sun, at 20° C
  • When the first germs are visible (supposedly after a few days), mix seeds with dry sand and sow
The sowing then has its pitfalls, there is an old school trial with parsley seeds on blotting paper, in which germinate only the seeds that are beautiful individually - because it is about intraspecific competition. This means "incompatibility with yourself", the parsley is here once again fully involved. If you slowly move to the next article with kinder plants, that would be understandable, but now it's done: you just have to sow the parsley at a certain distance. Leaves of parsley at least 10 cm from each side, root parsley at least 20 cm. Sowing in the open air must not happen before mid-May for heat-loving parsley, of course she does not like frost (if she really likes growing, does not really know, but parsley is said to have been seen in gardens...). But you have some air to the rear, you can sow parsley until July or August, the warm temperatures get their development really good. As long as it has been - the parsley has never forgotten the warmth in her first home, she prefers to grow at temperatures between 22 and 30° C. The average summer temperature in Germany is around 16° C, which is probably the reason for all parsley troubleshooting.
Parsley Care
If you've found a location where the parsley feels good, you're not much to do anymore, there are just a few more details to keep in mind:
  • Parsley wants to be poured evenly, but moderately
  • In their natural habitat "Felshang" runs off too much water immediately, waterlogging does not tolerate parsley
  • Parsley should not dry out either, especially if it is very hot outside, it needs regular moisture
  • In the pot, it is poured when the upper layer of soil has dried
  • In very lean soil, the parsley can tolerate a few nutrients, but please no fresh fertilizer, she does not appreciate much
  • And please also no artificial fertilizer, because of the taste and because parsley stores (too) well nitrate
  • It is better if you incorporate previously mature compost into the parsley bed
  • Parsley is biennial and usually uncritical hardy, in the cold it likes to take a little bit of twigs as winter protection
If a parsley takes care of you despite its exemplary care, you should not fall into melancholy, it's probably just because of the temperatures.
Harvest and freeze parsley
At least something that works very well with parsley:
Harvesting means cutting off stalks with leaves - always from the outside, parsley grows from the heart leaves in the middle. If you were to harvest these leaves inside, except for the last little fitzel, no leaf would regrow. Freezing is the only way to preserve pure parsley flavor. Drying is not possible, there remains no taste impression except the thought of green grass, other preservative options such as salting, in various spice powders layers, etc. always change the taste (if quite positive). You can freeze parsley in large portions on a stick, simply put it in a narrow freezer bag, in smaller portions than leaves, also loosely stacked in bags, or chopped ready-to-serve in the ice cube container.
Conclusion
Parsley cultivation is worthwhile. Just for that reason, so that you have the tasty leaf herb always fresh available, because once harvested parsley can hardly be stored in the refrigerator and not dry well. The parsley is pretty bitchy in the beginning, but once it's in the right place in the garden, the care is rather straightforward.

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