Lay paving stones (cobblestones) yourself


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Important in the planning: How sustainable should the area be?

We will soon go under the pavement: A driveway to be redesigned, with old pavement. So I learned in good time how to lay cobblestones or cobblestones that we would like to have ourselves.

Which clinker come into question?
We will lay historical stones when we get it nice old cobblestones, simple square paving stones in a possibly gray-brown color. Colorful paving stones or any pattern do not fit with us at all, it is the entrance of an old building. If you move new stones, z. For example, clinker, you have to think about the laying method beforehand. Most of the area is a certain dressing installation chosen such. B. herringbone, which is then demarcated at the edge with a ribbon, perhaps in a different pattern. For the sides then usually also stones of a different color are planned, so here you have to calculate a little, how many stones you need in about.

Lay pavement - that's how it works

    • If you use new stones, you have to mix after delivery, the stones of one pallet may have a slightly different tint than the next. Or you can process stones from each pallet evenly one after the other.
    • If cars can drive over the pavement, you need a load-bearing base layer of about 25 cm, for pedestrians 15 cm. The z. B. from gravel-sand mixture, first of all so much earth must be removed. Then the support layer is applied and compacted layer by layer with a surface vibrator. You must pay attention to sufficient lateral slope, so that rainwater can flow in the desired direction. In most cases a gradient of 2.5% is recommended, but in certain terrain conditions this can be different.
  • On the base layer, the bedding material for the plaster comes, depending on the substrate and pavement 4 to 6 cm, in old cobblestones also more. The sand for the bedding is removed after application with a long aluminum slat. When this is done, you should stretch cords to control the even height or lay pull-off iron on both sides. Now you see where there are still gaps, here bedding material is refilled.

Bedding and support layer

You can prepare the entire bedding layer if the surface can be better covered with a uniform layer, but only the area that is laid in a single day is subtracted to the last millimeter. If you want to pave a long narrow path, the bedding layer is applied piece by piece and pulled off.

For the support layer z. B. a gravel-sand mixture are used, such a Schottertragschicht is sold according to DIN EN 12620 with grain size 0-32, if it is only about pedestrian walks, a support layer of gravel is conceivable. On this base layer comes the leveling layer (bedding layer) of crushed or crushed sand.

The actual paving

    • Now it can be relocated: Starting with many paving areas in a corner, with paths, the curbs are often laid first. This of course assumes that the space requirements of the stones was calculated very accurately, if you are not so sure in this regard, you might just relocate the curbs on one side. At the side where the edge can yield a bit, the edge is then moved to the very end. Each stone is tapped, depending on the stone, a certain joint width should be maintained, for clinker z. B. at least 3 mm.
    • So that the joints have the same width everywhere, the joints are aligned with the joint trowel. For inexperienced plasterers so a joint trowel would be nice, which has exactly the joint width. When laying, you constantly check with mason's string or spirit level whether the surface is even.
    • If you make any ends with stones next to each other, you can align these stones with the aluminum slat that you used when you put it on.
  • All pavement edges to the sides must be attached. To do this you stir some mortar and make a slope with it and a trowel between unpaved ground and surface (pavement edge). This slope can be covered with special curbs, which cause a visual balance between pavement and garden.

As a filler special joint sand is recommended - but not a must.

Whenever you have finished laying a section, you must fill the joints with jointing sand and sludge. When the paving surface has dried, it can be cleaned from the joint material, it is swept off with a broom. Then it is compacted well with a vibrator, with certain paving stones prevents a rubber apron under the jogger scratches.Then it is grouted again, so again sand filled and slurried.

Paving "grouting" or sealing?

As a joint filling crushing sand of various qualities can be used, for. B. crushed sand from Scottish granite or sandstone, but also split, that depends on the substructure, the pavement and the use of. Vomiting sand is often claimed to never let weeds and ants pass through. It is true that crushed sand is specially treated and therefore is considered to be particularly clean. So maybe it does not contain any seeds, but it is not immune to getting contaminated with seeds that eventually grow in crushed sand.

If you wanted to keep weeds out permanently, you would have to seal the joints. B. with a cement-sand mixture or with other substances from the hardware store. However, this is ecologically usually a very dubious approach, too much water can not run off, and also are the most modern paving today, where plants grow out of joint. That's the way we want to have it, but first we have to find our dream paving at a dealer of historical building blocks.
(from Halina)

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