The Content Of The Article:
- Peppers in winter quarters
- What should you watch out for during the winter?
- Control of pests and diseases
- Care tips for wintering
- Which variants of hibernation are there?
- After the hibernation
Due to the Central European climate, it is not possible to overwinter pepper plants in the open air. Frost is deadly for the peppers, so she has to hibernate indoors. For more information on the wintering of pepper plants, read this article.
Peppers in winter quartersMany of the pepper plants that have spent summer on German balconies have thanked this with their sweet little fruits. Although the peppers grown from seeds or seedlings are not as big and fleshy as the specimens from the supermarket, but the cultivation is usually quite easy and taste worth it for most varieties.
But when the winter comes, the question arises for hobby breeders of paprika: How does the pepper overwinter the best? How do I bring the plant so well over the winter that it will bear fruit again next year? - Basically, wintering a pepper plant is not difficult - as long as the location and conditions are right:
- It should be clear: the balcony is not suitable for wintering and to survive unscathed by December and January. Before the night frosts begin, the plant should move into their winter quarters.
- Before wintering, it must be thoroughly examined for pests, such as spider mites or aphids, as they can otherwise multiply rapidly in the house and damage the plant.
- The place for wintering is bright places without draft, possibly the corridor or a conservatory. The temperature should be about 10° C.
What should you watch out for during the winter?In principle, all types of peppers are suitable for wintering. The advantage of wintering is that the plants are even more productive in the second year. When you're over-wintering peppers, be sure to follow these steps:
- Check plant for pests first if aphids or other pests are present, then remove thoroughly
- By regularly spraying the leaves, the plant can be protected from pest infestation
- bright, little heated, but frost-free room for hibernation find
- Keep winter temperatures at 10° C, promote higher temperatures
- During the winter pour only little and do not fertilize
Control of pests and diseasesThe control of pests or diseases should be based on natural resources and chemical agents are only helpful in emergencies. Because the use of chemical agents in the long term ensures that the natural balance is destroyed and the plant's natural defense system has no chance to become immune to the pathogens.
For example, aphids can best be combated by ladybug larvae through their natural predators. Furthermore, the plants can spray with a little stale water and strip the lice with a small piece of wood.
Powdery mildew can be recognized by the formation of white fungus on the leaf surface, which deprives the plant of important nutrients, causing the leaves to wither. On the other hand, when the powdery mildew is formed, greyish-bluish or purple spots form on the underside of the leaves, while bright yellowish mosaic-shaped spots appear on the upper side of the leaves and the leaves begin to die off. Both fungal diseases can be controlled with the same method. For this, remove the heavily infested plants and compost them, because only in compost does the fungus die. It is important to ensure a good ventilation. In addition, the plant should be poured from now on, only from below.
Care tips for winteringThe basic prerequisite for the successful wintering of peppers is the fact that the plants are free from diseases and pests. In light and temperature conditions, choose a bright location that is not too hot or dry. Furthermore, it is crucial to pay attention to the correct air circulation and heat supply.
During the winter phase the pepper plants may only be moderately watered and not fertilized. From February, the first branches or nodes should then be cut back.At the same time, it is time to replant the plants and place them in a larger vessel. Now the plant has to be watered regularly and it should be warmer than before. When the nights are frost-free again, the pepper plant can go outside again. It is best to plant the peppers in the garden only after the ice saints. Who has a greenhouse, can bring the pepper plants from the beginning or middle in the unheated greenhouse, so then can drive out the first flower buds. Make sure that the plants are not planted deeper than as in the seed pot, otherwise there is a risk that the plant suffers from stalk rot.
Which variants of hibernation are there?
- Hibernate at a bright window and in a heated apartment
- Hibernate in a bright and cool room
Pepper plants can live either in a warm and light location or in a light, but cool, winter. However, some essential circumstances must be considered. Before wintering, the pests must be removed from the plants so that they do not harm with wintering and plant damage. Furthermore, there must be no draft at the selected location. During the winter phase, the plants should be poured little and not fertilized. Those who winter their peppers well will be rewarded the following year with a fruitful harvest, because in the second year, pepper plants are even more productive. Try it yourself and hibernate your pepper plant properly.
After the hibernationOverall, the plant should be sparsely poured during the hibernation. In February you can prepare the plant slowly for the new open air year. First, it should be put into a new pot shortly after hibernation.
But be careful: only slightly increase the diameter and depth so that the plant does not waste all its power on new, larger roots. Now the plant can move to another location, which is slightly warmer than their winter quarters, but also bright and draft-free. The substrate may now be slightly wetter and casting can be done more often. Also, some fertilizer does the pepper plant well. If everything works out, the peppers should produce larger and better harvests in the second year.