Plate Hydrangeas - care and cutting

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Plate Hydrangea - Hydrangea

The plate hydrangea is a lush flowering and very decorative plant that gives the garden a special character. Unlike the well-known farmer's hydrangea, the plate hydrangea comes from Asia. The plate hydrangea is especially beautiful, because it appears much filigree compared to the farmer hydrangea. So why not take the sturdy plant in your own garden? - Overall, there are many types of disc hydrangeas. Here are the most important varieties for our climatic areas:


  • The acuminate is a very delicate hydrangea species, which convinces with steel blue inner flowers and pink border flowers. The Grayswood is a plate hydrangea that has pink inner flowers as well as white marginal flowers, which then turn into an attractive carmine red after the actual flowering of the plant.
  • The variety Rosalba differs from the other plate hydrangea by its umbrella-shaped inflorescence, which has the colors pink or blue in the inner flower, the border flowers first have the color white and transform after the actual flowering into a delightful carmine pink.
  • The variety Intermedia has white marginal flowers with a hint of blue, which attractively surround the dark blue inner flowers. The peculiarity among other things with the sort Intermedia lies in the fact that the edge blooms exhibit a Rosaton with strongly alkaline soils.
  • The plate hydrangea of ​​the species tiara has the same color inner and border flowers, which have a blue tint on acidic soils, while on alkaline soils they are both pink. Particularly attractive in the variety Tiara is the foliage, because the autumn takes on an interesting red-violet color. The variety Tiara reaches a maximum height of about one meter.
  • The variety Miyama-yae-murasaki has double-filled sterile border flowers that turn either blue or pink depending on the soil. This variety reaches a height of up to 1.5 meters. Since all disc hydrangeas come from the Asian region, they have similar demands on care as well as the location.

habitat requirements

The plate hydrangea has its original home in the rainy mountain forests of Japan and Korea. This origin also determines the requirement that the plate hydrangea places on its location and the soil condition of this site. Perfect is a location in the light shade. A very sunny location tolerates the plant only if it is supplied with sufficient moisture. The soil should be nutrient-rich and humus-rich and interspersed with airy pores for the plate hydrangea. In the pH of the soil the plate hydrangea has a tolerance range of five to eight, with the leaves of each variety color differently depending on the pH of the soil. The plate hydrangea does not resent a slight lime content of the substrate.
As far as the location is concerned, the plate hydrangea feels especially comfortable in the environment of deep-rooted deciduous trees, as it knows how to use these advantages for itself. Through a dense canopy of surrounding trees, the plate hydrangea is well protected against too hot sun exposure as well as heavily raining rain, but still gets mild sun rays. Due to its more delicate nature than the farmer's hydrangea and a height of usually about 100 cm, this plant can fit very well in perennial borders, if it receives a sufficient supply of water. The botanical name of the plate hydrangea is called Hydrangea, which translates to "water vessel" or "a lot of water" and thus already makes clear a substantial nurturing claim that the plate hydrangea has.
The plate hydrangea estimates:
  • a light shady location
  • intensive water supply
  • stale rainwater
  • a humus-rich soil interspersed with airy pores
  • the neighborhood of deep-rooted deciduous trees for sun and rain protection

Ideal planting time / care

It is best to plant the plate hydrangea in May. After planting, abundant watering is very important. If the plate hydrangea is kept as a container plant, an intensive water supply is particularly important, whereby the waterlogging should be avoided at all costs. This plant prefers water supply with soft and low-calorie rainwater, which is collected in the rain barrel and is therefore stale. The particularly high water requirement of the plate hydrangea even in shady locations is easy to explain, because the plant has an overall large leaf surface, which ensures an intensive evaporation of water even outside the flowering period. Therefore, the leaf hydrangea not only within the flower - as many other plants - but year round, as long as it carries foliage and it does not freeze outside, relying on intensive irrigation. By the way, the plant carries its flowers in the period from June to September.


The plate hydrangea has no problem with outside temperatures around the freezing point and it also copes well with light frost. If the winter is colder than 0° C, then the plant should be protected from the cold. The root area can be protected from the cold with a dense layer of straw or leaves or brushwood. The shoots and branches of the plant are protected from the frost with garden fleece or air cushion bags or jute sacks. On frost-free days, the plant should be supplied with a little soft water to prevent the drying of existing flower buds. Only when the temperatures rise again permanently above 0° C, the winter protection should be removed - but then also quickly, otherwise there is a risk of mold growth. For any late frosts, the coating of the plants should still be kept at hand. In the bucket the plate hydrangea is exposed to the risk that the root ball completely freezes. Therefore, potted plants should necessarily move to winter in a frost-free but cool winter quarters. Of course, the plants should not dry out there either.
The plate hydrangea:
  • is winterized until freezing
  • needs good protection for roots as well as shoots and branches
  • must also necessarily be protected from late frosts until May by coatings
  • should be protected from frost as a container plant, but should be winterized cool

Make the plate hydrangea bloom

Plate Hydrangea - Hydrangea

If the plate hydrangea does not bloom as desired, then this can have different causes. A wrong cut and the removal of the flowers for the next spring reduces the flowering ability of the plant. Even late frosts, to which the plant was exposed unprotected, can lead to bud damage and thus missing flowers. Until mid-May, hobby gardeners should always keep the cover for the plate hydrangea ready for the frosty nights.

To cut

Although the withered leaves in the late autumn almost every hobby gardener to a cut tempt, one should do without it, since the plate hydrangea under certain circumstances would suffer. Because most varieties plant the flower buds in the previous year's wood, a too early and intensive cut can cost the flowers for the next year. In addition, experienced hobby gardeners know the habit of hydrangea, which throws off their leaves, but leaves the dried inflorescences remain on the bush until next spring. In winter, these are even a ornament when covered with frost or hoarfrost or covered by snow. Only in the spring should then take the easy cut to support the approaching flowering. Then it is necessary to cut the frozen shoot tips and cut out all the deadwood near the ground as well as to remove the inward branches. Even crossing drifts and withered leaves are removed in the spring.
The cut should take place just above the new buds and there should be no long branch stumps. For the health of the plant only sharp and thoroughly disinfected cutting tool should be used, because twigs and shoots must not be crushed under any circumstances. The test of whether a shoot is still alive is simple. If you scratch something on the bark with the nail and green comes to the fore, then the shoot lives and must not be cut. A regular maintenance cut prevents the plant from being sown from below. If the hydrangea is stunted due to insufficient maintenance cuts, it can be rescued to a height of 15 to 20 cm after two to three years with a rejuvenation cut.

Care cut for garden and plate hydrangeas

The cut of these hydrangeas can therefore simply be limited to the necessary care:
  • First, you should, as indicated above, remove the old inflorescences. But only in the spring, because only then you can see the new flowers, which has formed the plant already the coming season, well and run little risk, with the old flower and the same to remove the new. The new buds develop under the old flower, just above it is cut.
  • On this occasion you should also consider whether your hydrangea over the winter had to sacrifice some shoot tips the frost. These dead shoots are then cut to where healthy tissue begins (where green color appears under the bark).
  • In addition, you can light up the entire plant a little if it is grown too tight inside. You should be careful to always crop the oldest shoots, which can then be cut back to ground level.
If your garden hydrangea feels so good at you that it grows really hard and slowly grows too big, you can also prune it more. But then you will almost inevitably also cut into the newly created inflorescences, which means that in the season after such a radical cut, you will only see very few flowers.

New breeds make the cut easier

If you do not feel like exploring every single twig before cutting a garden plant to see if you can see new buds or not, you could buy a hydrangea new breed that will free you from such considerations: the hydrangea "Endless Summer", a new variant of the garden hydrangea, was persuaded by her breeders to develop flower buds even on fresh shoots. Therefore, you can do nothing wrong here when pruning, you just take each of the faded ends, from which the "Endless Summer" equal to several times a year can produce new flowers.
Even with frozen shoots, you will have little load on this strain, it can stand up to minus 30 degrees winter temperature. If you also want to free yourself from worrying about the pH of the soil and the associated pink or blue flower, buy yourself an "Endless Summer" from the variety "The Bride", which produces magnificent pure white flower balls in each soil, More about the new breed can be found on the website

frequently asked Questions

  • What to do - my plate hydrangea does not want to bloom? - Nutrient deficiency or the cut of living shoots are the main reasons for missing flowers in the plant. If the cut is correct, a soil test should be performed from the garden center to test the soil, which identifies the pH of the soil. An optimal pH and a special hydrangea fertilizer make most plants bloom. However, a hydrangea fertilizer should urgently be used because, unlike other fertilizers, it has a low phosphorus content.
  • Which pests are dangerous for plate hydrangeas? - The spider mite likes to infest the plate hydrangea if they are kept too dry. Thorough showering of the plants as well as spraying with a rapeseed oil-containing spray can already help. To strengthen the plant should then be considered about a change of location with more sun protection.

Worth knowing soon

  • Panicle hydrangeas are among those who need a cut to become pretty bushy. After the last frosts you cut them back to about 50 cm.
  • If you have to curtail a hydrangea, this is possible. However, you have to do without flowering next year.
  • Also the plate hydrangea must not be circumcised. The plants for the new flowers form during flowering. If you cut off more than just the decollated flower balls, remove the flower buds for the coming year and the hydrangea will not bloom.
  • An easy way to cut back and still get flowers is to spread the cut over a few years. You always cut back only a few branches. These will not bloom, but the rest of the plant makes up for it by keeping it beautiful.
  • In addition, one can completely remove individual, heavily woody shoots in older plants. This stimulates the formation of new soil shoots.

Video Board: Instruction on Growing Hydrangea from Cuttings.

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