The Content Of The Article:
- Increase ornamental shrubs by means of woodpile
- Woods for the propagation of the pines
- The right time
- Cut the plywood
- Plug in sticks
- The further care
Increase ornamental shrubs by means of woodpile
The proliferation of wood by plywood is one of the few propagation methods that is still practiced today not only in specialized propagation companies, but also in many nurseries. In fact, this is a special variant of the cuttings propagation - the main difference is that the cuttings are unbelaubt and are cut and plugged during the rest period in winter.
Woods for the propagation of the pines
The regeneration capacity of the different tree and shrub species varies. While a willow rod, which is planted in the soil in late winter, forms roots and expels within a few days, the unrooted shoots wither the witch hazel and die.
Most simple flowering shrubs can be easily propagated by means of pericarp - for example, forsythia, ornamental currants, pipe shrubs, privet, Deutzia and Weigelien. Among the trees that can multiply in this way are willows, poplars, plane trees, catalpa and paulownia trees. In contrast, the cultivation of plywood is difficult or even impossible with the "better" garden shrubs such as fan-maples, magnolia, witch nuts and flower dogwood.
In addition, there is a group of garden shrubs in which the growth rates are so low that this propagation method is not economical for the nurseries. In the private garden one can still dare to try, because of ten sticks usually grow one to two successfully. These include, for example, the ornamental and ornamental cherries, some types of viburnum, the corkscrew hazelnut and the spice shrub. Some shrub roses and climbing roses are also surprisingly good for propagating through woodpile.
Basically, it depends on a trial! Even if the propagation through plywood does not work, that is not bad - after all, you have invested neither much time nor money.
The right time
Basically, the proliferation of woody wood through plywood from late autumn to early spring is possible shortly before budding. The longer the particular species needs for rooting, the sooner you should start. However, willow, red dogwood and elder will grow even after they have sprouted, if you put the shoots in humus-rich soil in a shady spot in the garden.
Cut the plywood
The starting material for the propagation are all shoots that have grown in the past season. They should be long, strong and as straight as possible. Tip: If you want to multiply your favorite shrubberwood next winter, simply cut back one to two older branches. In the course of the season, they will form new shoots for a long time, which are ideal for the cutting of sliced logs.
The entire shoot is used for the plywood. Only the thin, not well matured shoot tips should not be used. Incidentally, the bottom piece grows particularly well if you leave a part of the two-year Astring turn, because in this area, the plant has both divisive tissue and many growth substances. Tip: Cut the two-year shoot under the Astring with a horizontal cut deep and then tear off the branching shoot together with the Astrings down.
The sticks should be as long as a secateurs
For the plywood, divide the shoot into pencil- to garden-scissor-length pieces, which end up with one eye at the top and bottom, or - in the case of plants with the remaining leaves - one eye pair. If it is difficult for you to identify the direction of growth on the buds, you should cut the lower end of each woodcut slightly oblique. It is important that all sticks later in the earth come right around, otherwise they will not grow.
Tip: In the case of socket sticks, which only slowly form roots, you should brush the upper half with a wound sealant before inserting. It prevents the drift pieces from drying out and thus increases the growth chances.
Plug in sticks
In the tree nursery, the ready-cut sticks are usually bundled to 10 or 20 pieces and then taken to the upper bud in a breeding bed with humus soil. Here they are stored for two to three months and then planted in the spring in the spring plant beds. This method has the advantage that one recognizes before planting, whether a stick wood roots has formed - so give away later in the seedling bed no place with dead pegs.
The drive pieces are placed so deep that they only look a good finger out of the earth
In the hobby garden such efficiency issues do not matter. If your floor is suitable, you can put the freshly cut sticks individually into the half-shady bed.Loosen the soil thoroughly beforehand and enrich it with some humus-rich potting soil if necessary. Then insert the sticks in rows about 30 centimeters away. In the rows a planting distance of 10 to 15 centimeters is sufficient. Important: Stick the timbers so deeply that they only look out of the earth by two centimeters. The Steckhölzer be poured after planting again and then you can first leave it to yourself.
If you have a loamy, heavy soil in the garden, the rooting shown above in fish boxes or flower boxes has been proven. A freezing of the earth in winter is usually no problem, because almost all garden shrubs are sufficiently hardy. If the box is not deep enough, you can also turn the plywood slightly diagonally. By the end of March, you should transplant the rooted pegs into the garden bed.
The further care
If the sticks are to grow into flowering shrubs or trees, it makes sense to pin the new shoots around the end of May. The still soft shoots are trimmed with the secateurs on three to four leaves to stimulate the branching. Also, make sure you have a good water supply and fertilize the new shrubs for the first time with a fast-acting garden fertilizer after pricking. In autumn, the shoots are often over 50 centimeters long, depending on the plant species. Now the shrubs from the propagation bed can be transplanted to their final location.