The Content Of The Article:
- Step by step: Create a raised bed
- The right stratification in the raised bed
- Video: plant the raised bed with vegetables
Raised beds are available in numerous shapes, sizes, colors and from a variety of materials as kits. With a bit of skill and our practical step by step instructions, you can also create a raised bed yourself. The most popular material for raised beds is wood. It looks nice and works well. Disadvantage: If it comes into direct contact with soil or if it is permanently wet, it rots. Therefore, the corner posts should be stored on stones and the inside lined, for example, with pond liner. Nevertheless, one must be aware that the construction is not built for eternity and must be renewed after a few years.
In our example boards with log house profile were chosen, in principle the raised bed can also be built with normal boards. Thicker planks last longer, especially if they are designed to ventilate the inside as well, for example by means of a dimpled sheet. Wood of larch, Douglas fir and robinia is quite resistant even without chemical wood preservation. Choose a sunny spot for the raised bed. Before setting up the raised bed, clear the surface of vegetation, stones and roots and level.
Step by step: Create a raised bed
First measure the corner points for the raised bed (left) and saw the wooden boards (right)
First, the corner points for the raised bed are measured and paving stones are used as a foundation for the corner posts. Then use the spirit level to align the corner points at the same height. The boards for the sides and ends are brought to the correct length with a saw. A wood preservation glaze extends the life usually only little, a colored coat peps up the raised bed but on. When buying glazes or preservatives, look for harmless products, because vegetables and lettuce should grow in the raised bed.
First place the head ends (left) and then mount the side boards (right)
When setting up, start with the head ends. Once these are assembled and mounted exactly, the bottom board is first screwed on both sides. Afterwards you can check again if everything fits. If everything is straight, pull up the entire side panels and screw them to the corner posts. Wood screws are best suited for which no predrilling is required.
A wire mesh serves as vole protection (left). Then the side walls are lined with foil (right)
Against voles a tight-meshed wire ("hare wire", mesh size 13 millimeters), which is laid on the floor and stapled to the side walls helps. A foil on the inside of the raised bed, which is weighed down by old bricks or stones, protects the wood. One or more partitions stabilize the raised bed, so that the side walls are not pushed apart later.
Finally you can varnish your raised bed (left). Now it just has to be filled (right)
The conclusion of the frame form strips that are screwed flat on the border. The strips are sanded down, so that you do not get injured by splinters while working on the bed. The strips are painted with color glaze and optionally reworked elsewhere on the raised bed again. Then the raised bed can be filled: You can use the raised bed quite like a composter and process in the lower layers branches, branches and foliage. As volume churners in large raised beds can also serve trunks. When filling the respective layers repeatedly condense by congealing, so that the earth later does not sag so much. The top layer should consist of fine crumbly, nutrient- and humus-rich soil. For example, garden soil can be mixed with mature compost or plant soil from the garden center.
The raised bed is ready, now young plants can be set and seeds are applied. These should be watered well and the soil moisture checked regularly, as raised beds dehydrate faster.
The right stratification in the raised bed
Leaves or shrubs can be used for the lower layers in the raised bed
It is often recommended to fill the raised bed in layers like a hillside. Down comes coarse, hardly rotten material (branches, twigs), upwards it is getting finer, until finally a layer of earth closes. The idea: The material decomposes at different speeds and continuously releases nutrients, with fresh, nitrogen-rich material (such as manure or grass clippings) initially also heat. This promotes plant growth. However, these effects evaporate more or less quickly and the filling sank steadily, so that again and again earth has to be refilled.After two to three years, then completely stratified. Who wants to save this work, can also fill the whole raised bed with soil. The top layer (at least 30 centimeters) should be fine-crumbly, rich in nutrients and rich in humus. Above all, permeability is required, so that no water can accumulate. Tip: Bigger amounts of cheap compost can often be obtained at the next composting plant.