The Content Of The Article:
- soil quality
- Dig out
- Prepare and plant the location
- Frequently asked questions
- Interesting facts about transplanting rhododendrons
Anyone who wants to transplant their rhododendron must always ensure the right location. What makes the right place is determined by different criteria, such as the nature of the earth and its pH. In addition to the appropriate solution for the location, the correct procedure for excavating and inserting is essential for the survival of the rhododendron. In addition, as a hobby gardener you should know about various diseases that can affect the plant.
soil qualityRhododendrons are planted in spring or autumn, preferably at the beginning of the season. Reason: The plant gets enough time to spread its roots before the frost. Ideally, however, the transplanting takes place in May after the Eisheiligen. The time from early September to mid-November can also be used. What is needed is a soil with a slightly acidic pH. Ideally, this is a value of 4 to 5.5. In the specialized trade one gets test strips, with which one determines the value by the indicated color. In addition, the soil should be in an environment with relatively high humidity and partial shade. The choice should fall on a sheltered place to prevent later dehydration by wind. A sunny location can also be chosen if the humidity is sufficiently high. Who can offer it, the rhododendron plants in lime-poor, loose and provided with humus soil, which must be well air and water permeable. The soil conditions for the rhododendron in the abstract:
- Transplant possible in spring and autumn (start as early as possible in autumn)
- alternatively early September to mid-November
- pH slightly acidic; between 4 and 5.5
- Place with high humidity in partial shade
- Soil: low in lime, loose, rich in humus, permeable to air and water
Dig outIn order to transplant the rhododendron completely and without damage, it must be carefully pulled out of the ground. Around the bush you work out a ditch with the help of a spade. The diameter of the excavation is three quarters of the size of the bush. Once the circle has been drawn around the rhododendron, one pricks under the plant diagonally to free the firmly grown roots from the ground. The entire bush is pulled out of the ground with the bale and then transported to the new stand. If necessary, bind the branches together with a string to avoid breakage during transport.
Prepare and plant the location
With the spade you lift a hole. This should be twice the size of the globe. Then loosen the surrounding soil to help the rhododendron grow out. Peat or rhododendron soil is poured into the hole and watered before being planted in the ground again. Care is taken to use the plant at the same height as at the previous location. This step is essential for the health of the rhododendron, because if you use the bale too deeply, the roots will suffer. The remaining hole around the bush is filled up with peat or special soil and watered again.
In the short description again the details:
- Dig hole; double the size of the bush
- Loosen soil around the trench
- Fill hole with peat or rhododendron soil; to water
- Plant at the same height as at the previous place
- close remaining hole with peat or rhododendron soil
Proper fertilizer helps Rhododendron to grow and facilitates root propagation. The nutrient addition takes place via organic fertilizer or rhododendron fertilizer. The right time to fertilize is in late March or early April. Two to three months later, nutrients are added again - from late June to early July.
The trigger for a disease is usually a wrongly chosen location. Fungal attack is one of the most common consequences of inappropriate location. In addition, the leaves can turn brown and the buds dry. Dehydration is associated with dying. Bud rot can also occur. Very striking are the so-called Alpenrosen apples; red, gelatinous bumps. Various pests can be a problem for rhododendron. Including the weevil and the rhododendron cicada. Dropouts and brown leaves are the result of attack by rhododendron lattice bugs. These eat at the midrib and damage the plant.
When the flower is over, turn the remainder of the flowers off the rod. This measure is important to prevent re-seeding. That would cost the rhododendron unnecessary power.In addition, the growth of new inflorescences is supported, so that the young and strong shoots are responsible for the reproduction. The rhododendron must be moistened in moderation. Once the soil has dried up, you have to water.
A regular blending is not of urgent necessity. If the bush is too big for its current location, transplanting is possible. If you still want to cut, this should happen after the flowering time or at the end of winter. You can cut away the first flowers. Whether and how a cut is necessary depends on the rhododendron species and its liveliness. If you propagate your plant through cuttings, you can cut it if the plant is healthy. Caution is advised in refined specimens, as they often do not accept a blend well. Correct cutting in a nutshell:
- cut after flowering or at the end of winter
- Necessity of the cut depends on the species and vitality of the plant
- only cut rhododendron, which was propagated over cuttings
- grafted crops do not tolerate cutbacks well
Frequently asked questions
- How much space does a rhododendron need?
- The rhododendron has yellow leaves. What cause can this have?
- Is it possible to keep rhododendron in the planter?
Interesting facts about transplanting rhododendrons
A rhododendron forms very shallow roots, so it is relatively easy to replant it as a large bush. A rhododendron is planted and transplanted either in spring or autumn. In the autumn, this should happen as early as possible, so that the plant has enough time to form enough roots before the first frosts.
- Rhododendron is one of the few plants that needs an acidic soil. This should have a pH of about 4 to 5.5.
- If the soil in which the rhododendron is to be transplanted is not acidic enough, it can be improved by incorporating peat.
- Alternatively, a part of the soil can be excavated and filled with special rhododendron earth.
- Such rhododendron earth can also be used for azaleas, camellias and other plants requiring a low pH.
- To replant a rhododendron, it must first be excavated.
- For this purpose, a ditch is excavated around the bush with the spade, which should be about 3/4 of the diameter of the bush in diameter.
- From there, the spade can be pricked under the plant at an angle so that the roots slowly dissolve.
- This allows the bush to be lifted out of the ground with a bale. After that he will be transported to the new location.
- At the new location, a planting hole is excavated, which should be about twice as large as the bale.
- In order for the rhododendron to be able to form new roots, the surrounding soil should also be loosened a bit.
- Peat or rhododendron soil is poured into the hole and watered in advance before the bush is put into it.
- The shrub should then be at the same height as at the old location.
- Under no circumstances should a rhododendron be placed too low, otherwise the roots will soon suffer.
- Thereafter, the remainder of the planting hole is in turn filled with peat or rhododendron earth.
- Finally, once again plenty of watering.
For a rhododendron, only low-calcium water, ie rainwater or stale tap water, should be used wherever possible, because lime is poorly tolerated by this plant. In order to be able to pour the rhododendron easily in the time after transplanting, it is helpful to create a pouring rim. Here, a small wall of earth is created, through which the water can not flow to the sides. So that the transplanted rhododendron gets enough nutrients in the growing time, he should still get some fertilizer, which is only slightly eingarkt. Additionally, the floor can be covered with bark mulch to protect the roots from heat and cold.