Planting rock garden plants & shrubs

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Perennials are non-woody hardy herbs that are usually planted for their shape or floral decoration. How long perennials thrive and feel in the same place depends on the type and variety: there are short-lived perennials or those that need to be split and transplanted more frequently. Others stay in the same place for twenty to forty years.
But the lifespan also depends on the care taken when planting. A wrong location, wrong neighbor plants, compacted soil, wrong nutrition, too dense and weeds are the most common reasons for the premature end of perennials.
Tips for the care of rock garden plants

  • The soil preparation
Perennials want to sink their roots deeply and far into the ground - not in the first year, but over several years. The prerequisite for this is a deeply loosened soil with a permanently permeable structure. Heavy clay and loam soils cause the greatest difficulties. Only the deep loosening and mixing in of sand or gravel can help with these "sugar beet bottoms". Light sandy soils are easier to handle. However, since they lack the ability to retain water and nutrients, clay dust helps them, but also well-rotted, weed-free compost.
  • What to do against root weeds?
Permanent root weeds pose a problem, that is, couches, thistles, greed, winds. These plants penetrate the plantation in a short time. In contrast, radical measures such as covering the plant areas with black foil during an entire growing season help. Better is the cultivation of a preculture. With potatoes z. B. the floor is worked through very thoroughly. Green manure plants, such as oil radish, phacelia or rapeseed, take away the light from the weeds. Annual summer flowers have the added benefit of looking beautiful. All precultures suppress the weeds, improve the soil and leave it in good condition.
  • Special floor claims
Discounts on which the magnificent, sophisticated bedding plants should grow, eg. B. Larkspur, Phlox, Rudbekien, Helenium, require a soil as is common in vegetable growing: Deep, it should be nutritious, of good crumb structure. In contrast, wild shrubs with very low nutrient content of the soil. Additional fertilization is out of place. Depending on the location, however, other additions can be very useful.
- Perennials under wood are grateful for Lauberde. Many species thrive properly under mature mature trees and shrubs in rotting foliage.
- Wild shrubs of dry grass can be reached on heavy soils by sand or split.
- Prairie and steppe perennials feel "at home" when their soil has been enriched with old, well rotted posterde.
- For Feisseneppenpartien it is best to avoid the application of topsoil. Gravel and sand, as well as some clay, are what most appeals to the wild shrubs of this area. As fertilizer only stone flours in question or horn shavings that rot very slowly in a mineral milieu.
  • The planting distances of perennials
Perennials have a great urge to spread. Only if they are not hindered by too narrow a stand, they can develop their full beauty and even grow old. Between large bedding plants, such as larkspur, peonies and Rauhblattastern, you can confidently 1 m distance. After several years, the space in between has grown. On the other hand, if they are placed close together, they have to be transplanted after only two years, because the perennials are pressing. The interspaces that are wide in the first few years can be elegantly planted with one or two-year-old summer flowers, eg. With:
- Rudbeckia hirta and Rudbeckia triloba,
- with a high ageratum,
- With Cosmos sulphureus,
- with California poppy,
- with verbs or annual grasses.
Unsuitable are strongly colored, highly bred summer flowers, such. B. filled Tagetes, the bright red Salvia splendens or Sommerastern. Very different planting widths require the wild shrubs. Once their size decides the distance, then whether they are exposed individually, in small groups or as an entire surface. In areal plantation one expects with five to eight plants.
  • The technique of planting
Perennials are largely grown in the field, most recently in those plastic pots (containers) in which they are sold. These pots make it possible to plant throughout the growing season. Another advantage is the protection they give the roots. The roots are protected from sun and wind until the perennials are planted. Despite this protection you should avoid sunny and windy days. A calm weather with overcast skies is best for all outdoor crops.
Before the perennials come into the ground, they are put to the test. Even good plans often experience a correction.In nature, on the bed looks much different than on the paper. Once the squares have been determined, the planting holes are dug. Usually enough as a device a hand bucket. Only now do you knock out the pots, loosen, if necessary, the root area a bit and insert the plant. It is important to pay attention to the depth - the perennials should not get deeper or stand higher than they were in the seed pot. It is pressed with the hands, it is best to feel how firmly the plant sits. Last is poured thoroughly.
  • Transplanting and rejuvenating
If perennials no longer thrive and flower, if their location has changed, z. B. is shaded by woody plants, then helps transplanting, helps a new place in the garden. When transplanting but you have to take the opportunity to rejuvenate. Because if you kill whole perennials, they take care of it and finally come in. Perennials must therefore be divided during transplanting: with the knife or with compact plants with the spade. It cuts injured roots smooth and necessarily removes weeds that may have taken root. Most vigorously grow pieces of fist size, which have about three to four shoots.
When transplanting and rejuvenating it is particularly important to have the right time. One basic rule is easy to remember: the best time to transplant is right after flowering. Deviating from it one plants perennials, which bloom only in the late autumn, better in the spring over. Perennial grasses can only be divided and transplanted in spring. The then onset shoot and root growth brings the cuts quickly going. Another exception is the peonies, the peonies. Since they belong to the very old growing perennials, only in emergency to replant. The peonies survive the transposition and sharing in early autumn.
Plant and cultivate rock garden plants properly
But if you want to create a rock garden, you first think about creating a picture of the beautiful plant locations in the mountains. However, when one considers how complicated and differentiated these locations are, one quickly becomes more modest:
  • It would have the slope,
  • the shading,
  • the sun intensity,
  • the type of rock,
  • whether it is walking or lying quietly,
  • the rooting degree,
  • the humus layer,
  • humidity,
  • the windbreak,
  • the length of the growing season...
and many other growth factors are taken into account when we want to locate these highly specialized plants in our gardens. Fortunately for the "normal" garden owners, however, there is a whole range of breeding-influenced mountain plants, which are also quite comfortable in the lowlands. These plants must have about 30-40 cm loose, underneath the stones, have root-ground, which should be interspersed as far as possible with the pieces of rock, which you also used to fill in the interstices and joints.
The surface must be well permeable to water, as the plants are extremely sensitive to waterlogging. It is important that you place the upholstered plants so that the roots can penetrate deeply into the ground, but the above-ground parts can spread out in a warm, dry place (stone or gravel surface). Most of them love "a cool, damp foot and a warm, dry head". With fertilizer you should be very economical and never use nitrogenous fertilizers.
Design the rock garden with different plants
The floating dwarf irises from onions along with the orange flowering crocus are the first spring messengers on a stone garden bed. The pasque, geese cress, blue cushions and carpet phlox, all of which bear very strong flower colors, soon join them. The spring and the early summer are known to be the main blooms for the rock garden plants, but in this plant composition, the flowering period extends to the end of August.
For all necessary care work, weeding, possibly cutting seed levels, you should always go over the stones and not step on the ground, so it does not cause soil compaction. It is recommended to cut off the seeds if it is to be prevented that some species become too segregated or if the mother plant should not be weakened too much.
It is nice when over the years lavender, Iceland poppy, sunflower, spur flower, soapwort and other shrubs germinate and grow in the joints of the decking or the stairs and the rock garden is not isolated.
Lewisia and Saxfraga must be planted on the absonnige side of stones, so that they feel well. The house sausages can be planted as individual rosettes in small holes or depressions in the stone, they will gradually grow into stately colonies. The one-year-old shoots of Perowskie need not be cut back until spring, they can remain over the winter as a decoration (eg in hoarfrost). In autumn, a cover of spruce is recommended as protection against frost.

Video Board: Best Rock Garden Plants.

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