Zimmerhibiscus cut - instructions + tips to cut


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hibiscus

In order to give the room hibiscus a suitable cut, there are various types of cuts. These relate predominantly to the shape and the growth potential. But even in the case of a life-threatening illness or a parasite infestation, a special type of cutting can save your room hibiscus's life.

education section

The educational cut is a type of cut, which is mainly used in young Zimmerhibisken. This is also known as growth cut and serves to help the young plants, which are usually equipped with a few shoots, to increase volume and density. The upbringing is usually done in the fall, but can be rescheduled in the spring, should it have been forgotten in the fall. At educational cut they proceed as follows:
  • Cut off all shoots and trunk by three quarters
  • Cut off cross-growing branches directly at the junction
  • Cutting time: during the first three years of life or until a dense growth can be seen

Standard tree cutting

Very popular and decorative is the Hibiscus as a high-stem plant. Since this is usually much more expensive to buy than conventional hibiscus, it is worth taking the high strain of young plants even with the right cut in attack. However, you need a bit of patience, because the high-stem hibiscus is usually "finished" after four or five years. This is what the optimal high-stem incision looks like:
In the first year of life
  • Shorten all lateral branches except for two or three buds
  • The trunk is not cut
In the following years of life
  • Shorten all branches so much that two or three buds remain
  • Cut the master drive down to five or six eyes
final section
  • Highly developed branches except for one or two eyes
  • If necessary, give the crown a shape cut
TIP: Optimal for a high-stem growth, the hibiscus "Blue Bird" is particularly good because it grows quickly and can be optimally guided by the special cut.

preservation section

Hibiscus - Rosa sinensis

The Zimmerhibiscus needs at the latest as adult plant the so-called maintenance cut. It removes old branches and creates space for new shoots. The conservation cut ensures that a dense leaf dress remains, the plant continues to grow vigorously and every year anew show numerous flowers.
This type of cutting is done once a year as follows:
  • Cut out dehydrated and diseased branches
  • Remove softened or weak looking branches above three or four eyes
  • Branches that stick out too much on one side cut off at the deepest branching

rejuvenation pruning

With increasing age, the hallmark of Zimmerhibisken is usually also increased. If you want to avoid this, or if you want to close gaps again, then the so-called taper cut is the right choice. Apart from the appearance, the dried branches unnecessarily tug at the nutrient reserves and thereby reduce the nutrient supply for new shoots and the growth of flowers. This means that a rejuvenation cut should be made every few years at the latest.
The procedure depends on the plant density:
  • For strong clearings, at least two-thirds of the twigs and main trunk are pruned
  • With normal clearing, a pruning of one third and a section of stunted and transversely growing branches is sufficient
  • In the preventive clearing cut, only dried branches are cut out

radically cut

In some cases, you will not come around having to make a radical cut. For example, if your hibiscus has been severely damaged by a condition such as a fungal infection, or a parasite just can not / was fast enough to fight it. Even with a strong root rot and the pruning of the roots, a radical cut is usually essential so that the moist branches and trunks do not begin to mold and the plant regains strength for a renewed expulsion. However, there is no guarantee that the hibiscus will recover after illness or pest infestation.
However, the odds are very good, depending on the severity. However, when radical cutting due to diseases or pests, they behave differently than in radical cutting, which should give the plant new energy for improved growth. The Radikalschnitt in diseases and pests is carried out as follows:
  • Cut away all branches to the lowest branches
  • Shorten the main trunk to just above the first branches above the surface of the earth
Radical section for improved growth:
  • Delay process for at least two years, better three to four years
  • Cut back two-thirds first year
  • The following years each a little more than the year before
  • Pruning is done when the main stem with first branches is about five centimeters above the surface of the earth
  • Thereafter, the educational cut is applied in the following year
TIP: If a radical cut is due to a disease or a pest infestation, this should be done quickly. The optimal cutting times of autumn and spring should then not be awaited in the case.

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