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Why are the most beautiful plants in the garden, the wonderful roses, so often sent completely unprepared and unprotected into the winter? Do not necessarily believe the dealer, who assured you when buying, this rose is definitely completely winterized, even at Siberian temperatures.
Prepare your rose properly and protect it well, especially in colder areas, gradually reducing the winter protection you can still:
The winter preparation of the roses begins in autumn
The roses are prepared for the winter already in the autumn so that they survive the cold season well. These include the following points:
- Roses should be sent in the optimal state of supply in the winter. This means first of all to stop summer fertilization after flowering. Because it provides the roses with ingredients that have promoted in addition to the general growth and especially the flower. The shoots that have been set up so far, but should remain the last. You should get the chance to mature to the winter so that they can easily get through the cold season.
- Therefore, in September, the roses get a special fertilizer, in which hardly any nitrogen should be contained (which would promote the growth and thus the formation of other shoots, which is just not desirable anymore). Therefore, the special fertilizer for the fall contains a lot of potassium, the so-called Thomaskali, a gently acting mineral fertilizer containing a little phosphate, which supports the maturation of the shoots, and much potassium, which strengthens the cells of the plants and thus equal to the resistance of the Rose against frost increased. Thomaskali you get in the garden shop or on the Internet, z. In the fertilizer shop of Yvonne Kaiser from 38154 Königslutter, duenger-shop.de.
You should now examine your roses very closely for signs of disease. Because then you can still try to remove the pests by a radical autumn cut so far that your roses can recover in winter.
- Autumn is also the best time to plant roses, and you should take advantage of this fact if you can already foresee that pest infestation through a cut is unlikely to be contained. Then it is better to part with the damaged rose immediately, especially if it is a variety that has been more frequently attacked by rose diseases. At some point then the time has come, at which you should not wait, that this rose will not survive the winter. Replace them in autumn with a robust rose variety! Because there are quite disease-resistant rose varieties - you would have to deal only slightly before the selection of this topic. You can replant the roses as soon as they have gone to sleep. If you buy the new roses from a specialist dealer, he will give you the right time to pick them up.
- Now is also the right time to replant a rose that has never wanted to feel so good at its previous location. Maybe you know more about roses now and have discovered a location in your garden that is sure to please your rose a lot better? Once she has lost her leaves, you can grab the spade, but you do not need to hurry, as long as the ground is not frozen, you can implement it.
The perfect winter protection for roses - the most important tips
Only if you give your roses a little protection, they will survive the winter well in colder areas. What you can do to protect your roses:
- Do you still see young shoots on your roses? If it suddenly gets very cold outside, they should be quickly protected against the cool winds, and the winter sun must not radiate unhindered: If the rose has not yet lost its leaves, but the ground is already frozen, the rose from the ground can not Draw water. The full sunlight would dehydrate very quickly. Therefore, you should treat your roses in case of a sudden cold snap immediately "full body protection" - down to the root as described in point 2. The upper area, which is still growing, can be covered with light fabric, but also with special fleece or jute fabric if necessary.
- In the root area (up to the finishing point, which should also be covered), the rose is well piled with soil. This mound is then covered with a coconut mat or with straw or with bubble wrap. In the upper area she gets sunscreen, which is very important even with bare branches.On every clear day, moisture evaporates from the remaining shoots. If the soil is completely frozen through, this moisture can not be replaced by the roots. The rose dries up. Therefore, the upper area should be covered with spruce branches z. Or with fir branches, both of which still allow enough light through their needles, but protected the shoots from excessive solar radiation. This sunscreen also ensures that the roses only drive out when the severe frosts are over safely. They may therefore remain under protection until the end of April.
- If possible, do not cut your roses in the fall - unless they are sick (see above). Because you are now inflicting wounds on your roses that could not heal until winter. In addition, the old shoots are a good winter protection for the rose. The shape cut is better in the spring, but if shoot tips are frozen to death in winter, they are then cut away immediately. Only overlong whip shoots, which could not be covered at all, can of course be removed before the winter.
It may take a bit of work to prepare the roses perfectly for the winter. But this work is more important for the roses than a lot of the care they will give you over the summer. In fact, it plays a big part in making your roses stronger and more resistant in the long term.
- If a rose is permanently weakening, you should not spend endless time looking for the right care, but in the meantime, check whether it may not care at all.
- If the rose has been planted in a soil that has been fertilized for years, a soil analysis is recommended every three to four years. You can find out where your soil can be tested favorably at your local phytosanitary office, usually there is a contact point in your area.
- Sometimes it helps to adjust the soil differently, sometimes an ailing rose can be saved by putting it in a large pot while the over-fertilized soil is recovering.