Red spot disease in strawberries - this helps with brown spots on leaves

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Strawberries - red spot disease

For the acquisition cultivation also belong the self-picker fields. You can be sure that at least there pesticides would be used and that the orchard would recommend these pesticides to farmers if there were reasonable resources available. Because the professional fruiting consultant / expert who runs the site knows for sure how fun it is to explain to urban helicopter mothers that the strawberry stains neither poison nor infect their children. For the home garden this results in the fact that you do not have to panic because of the red spot disease, but should invest a little work in the fight against the current infestation and prevention:

Combat red spot disease

The current infection with red spot disease usually harms neither the strawberry plant nor the strawberry harvest. In normal, mild to moderate infestation (especially the oldest leaves show spots) anyway; if several unfavorable circumstances meet and cause extreme infestation, even if you cut away the most severely affected leaves.
If you wait for the heaviest infestation until each strawberry leaf has a dot design, the leaf area that is no longer available for photosynthesis will eventually become too large. This weakens the plant, single leaves can die off, the strawberry harvest can be a little less lush.
The spores of the red spot fungus can not germinate without moisture, therefore, in normal weather conditions, the next budding occurs without red spot fungus. Since the red spot disease is more often due to wet autumn weather over the now dense in the foliage strawberries than in spring (where the strawberries do not have many leaves and dry much faster), even a heavy infestation does not necessarily cause you headache. Here is to distinguish:
  • When the strawberries are in their last year, they are harvested and disposed of normally without any special fungus treatment
  • Anyway, the new strawberries should get a new site with fresh soil, which should not be right next to the old strawberry bed
  • If the strawberries still have one or (in old varieties) several years of existence in front of them, the plants have enough time over the winter to recover
  • In this case, you should remove the strawberry leaves after harvest to lower the mushroom pressure
  • For example, it can be mowed with a lawnmower
  • Of course, a few strawberries can simply be cut back by hand
  • The separated plant remnants can be put on the compost when it is used as a normal hot rotting
  • If you have modern compost variants made of plastic u. Ä. Use, the necessary temperatures for fungal destruction are not always achieved
  • In case of doubt, deciduous leaves should then be better disposed of in domestic or organic waste
Plant protection products against the red spot disease are not allowed in the home and garden at all, because the potential damage in the leisure and hobby gardening does not reach the extent that would justify the use of fungicides also causing damage.
Leaf spots are generally rather not critical diseases: they are (in this country) caused by about 100 different fungi and a few bacteria, of which the vast majority of neither the plant itself nor the harvest or ornamental flower inflict more damage.

Strawberries - red spot disease

Depending on the location of the bed, the fungus pressure in the garden, which is still quite full of fungi, can be significantly reduced if the strawberries are grown on earth dams. They make water run better and improve the ventilation of the individual plant, a straw layer around the roots leaves the strawberry plants by catching spray water to dry a little faster.

Several mushrooms in the garden

If not only the strawberries have "mushroom friends", but also other plants in the garden are colonized by fungi again and again, this is a sign that the mushroom pressure in your garden is altogether too high. If it is a normal garden that has so far been poorly maintained in terms of mushrooming, it is time to move to a fungi-repellent garden culture that includes the following throughout the garden:
  • Once a plant is renewed, choose only resistant to fungi etc. resistant or resistant varieties
  • Resilient is usually called old, bred in a long process varieties that are really robust
  • The results of resistance breeding do not convince with every plant species
  • When hard-prone varieties are the source material, resistance does not always persist
  • Introduce the most diverse crop rotation possible: The more the plants "wander through the garden", the less likely it is to accumulate specialized fungal spores
  • Buy from nurseries where you can see the plants before you buy so you do not "shop for illnesses"
  • Keep the planting of the entire garden airy, from plant to plant and in the plants (correct trimming)
  • Plant the shrubs / woody plants in the sunniest parts of the garden, which are often attacked by fungi and naturally have a fairly dense structure
  • Pour the plants (especially in the less sunny corners) only directly to the root and not to the leaves
  • Do not fertilize too much immediately available nitrogen (calculate fertilizer requirement according to soil analysis)
  • Too much nitrogen fertilizer causes foliage and shoots to grow fast, unripe - a lot of delicate green for mushrooms
  • Fertilize as needed, which can be done well without using a longer learning curve by using organic fertilizer
  • These fertilizers usually only have to be digested by soil organisms; over-fertilization is hardly possible
  • The prerequisite is that soil organisms are present in the garden soil
  • In addition to micro-small organisms include earthworms that have a strong appetite for fungal spores
  • All of this soil life thrives best in a garden soil that regularly "enjoys" soil care measures
  • Effective fungal defense provides plant restoratives such as field horsetail, nettle, tansy broth
  • They fertilize, strengthen the plant tissue with silicic acid, nourish soil organisms and more
  • The best immediate measure against visible symptoms of fungal, bacterial, viral infestation is trimming
  • Inform yourself in time, to what extent trees can be cut into healthy wood
  • Disinfect the cutting tools when diseases have been cut away
  • Create a compost heap with hot rotting
  • Find out which disease-laden plant material can be composted on such a compost and what needs to be disposed of remotely with "sharp fingers"
If fungi continue to be a problem even after having carried out such a fungal care package, it should always be checked whether the garden is really suitable for planting with the normal selection of garden plants. A piece of land between two high rows of houses, the moisture subtract poorly and the sun rarely penetrate to the ground, brings gardening pleasure instead of garden Frust if it is planted with specially adapted to this particular environment plants.

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