Shrubs or stems: propagation tips for currants

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Currants are among the most popular fruit trees. No wonder: The bushes take up little space and provide numerous aromatic berries. In addition, currants with good care hardly have problems with diseases and pests. But best of all, the shrubs are easy to grow!

The simplest method is the propagation of shrubs by so-called plywood. Thus, in gardener's jargon, the leafless shooters planted in winter are called. If you multiply redcurrants by means of woodpile, this has the advantage compared to classic cuttings that you do not need any seed boxes with foil cover or plastic hood. You simply rooted the plywood in a shady garden with humus rich, loosely and evenly moist soil.

To multiply redcurrant shrubs through plywood

The ideal time to multiply redcurrants with plywood is the early winter after the fall of leaves. The starting materials are as vigorous as possible, this year's shoots. Except for the thin tip you can use all drive parts. Simply cut the shoots with sharp pruning shears into pencil-length sections, each with a bud or eye above and below. After the cut, the sticks are bundled with rubber bands to ten, labeled with the correct name and in a shady place in the garden so deep hammered into loose humus rich soil that only the top one to two inches from the earth look out.
Now let the sticks rest until spring and only make sure that the earth does not get too dry. At the end of February, remove the bundles from the ground and look closely at the lower ends of the sticks. All shoots, which have already formed roots or at least much called callus (wound tissue), are now individually planted with a planting distance of about 20 centimeters in the row and 30 centimeters between the rows in beds. The sticks, which have not formed any wound tissue, should be disposed of.

Freshly expelled sticks of currant

Freshly expelled sticks of currant in the garden bed

In the propagation bed, the young currants move out again in the course of spring. Once the young shoots are around five inches long, they are pinched. By removing the tips, they branch and usually form three to five new shoots. By the next autumn, that is, after almost a year, the young currants are then usually ready to be put into their final place in the garden.

Propagation of red currant stems

Somewhat more complicated and lengthy is the cultivation of red currant stems. First of all you need long rooted rods of the golden currant (Ribes aureum) as processing documents. To attract these, the gold currants are propagated, just like the normal currant shrubs by means of woodpile. After planting in the bed, all other new shoots are removed, except for the strongest. Next spring, the single remaining shoot is cut back on an eye just above the ground. The shrubs drift then very much new and form with good care until autumn a long new shoot. All emerging side shoots must continue to be removed immediately.

Gold currant (Ribes aureum)

The golden currant (Ribes aureum) is not only an attractive ornamental shrub. Her long shoots are also used as finishing materials for red currant stems

After two years of culture, the stems are ready. They are cleared in January or February and finished immediately. This is done by so-called copulation: Here you cut the pad at the desired crown height with a sharp finishing knife at an angle. Thereafter, the precious rice, a good ten centimeters long shoot section of the desired currant variety, also cut obliquely at the bottom. It is important that both cut surfaces are absolutely flat and about the same length. Place both surfaces on top of each other so that the dividing fabric in the bark has direct contact with the dividing fabric of the counterpart on at least one side. Thereafter, the finishing is connected with bast or special finishing foil. In order to prevent the precious rice from drying out before growing, you should also coat it completely with tree wax, including the finishing agent.

After refining, the roots of the stem are cut fresh with pruning shears. Then plant the refined redcurrant trunks at a distance of 40 centimeters in the row and 50 centimeters between the rows in a garden bed. The Scarlet Spiders drift out in the spring and the new shoots are pinched like the shrubs, after they are at least five inches long. By autumn, small, well-branched crowns have formed. You can now transplant the high stems after the fall of leaves if necessary.

Currant phylum

Redcurrant high trunks are popular: they take up little space, can be well planted and easily harvest while standing. However, the cultivation is more elaborate than with the shrubs

By the way: In special propagation companies, the stemmed rootstocks of the currants are propagated by so-called breaks. For this you plant in autumn or spring, a gold currant and leaves the shrub initially grow well for a season. In the next fall or winter you cut back all the branches near the ground. The shrub in the second year pushes out vigorously again and forms straight shoots for a long time. These are piled up shortly after budding about 20 inches high with loose compost soil. They then form so-called adventitious roots at the bottom of the base. Next winter, just before refining, remove the compost soil and simply cut the stems from below the newly formed roots of the mother plant.

Video Board: How to Multiply Currant & Gooseberry Bushes from Cuttings!.

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