The Content Of The Article:
- What's the difference between Fruit Skimmie and Flower Skimmie?
- Location in the bed
- Location on the balcony
- to water
- To cut
- This helps with yellow leaves
In winter a small shrub trumps in the garden with evergreen leaves, the decorative dialogue with bright red berries until March. In spring, the Asian charm offensive continues with a wonderfully fragrant flowers. Triste niches in low-light locations are now a thing of the past thanks to Skimmie. A Skimmia japonica is reserved when it comes to the demands of her care. Read here how to properly water, fertilize and cut the multifaceted ornamental wood. Here you will also find field-tested help with yellow leaves.
What's the difference between Fruit Skimmie and Flower Skimmie?If there is a solitary Skimmie in the bed and on the balcony, you will look in vain for the bright red fruit hanging in the autumn. The decorative ornamental wood is a two-sex plant. This property implies that at least one female and one male Skimmia japonica must be in close proximity to each other for successful pollination.
In spring, both bushes bear white, fragrant flowers, which can not be distinguished by their sex for a layman. When making a purchase, the distinction is easier. A male Skimmie offers the specialized trade under the designation 'flower Skimmie'. The female counterpart is signposted as 'Fruit Skimmie'.
Location in the bedFrom their decorative properties, creative home gardeners benefit in the bed. So that the hope for the red berry decoration over an evergreen leaves dress is fulfilled, the choice of the location is an important criterion. A look at the Asian homeland shows where a Skimmia japonica feels in good hands. In the mountain forests of East Asia lies the pretty small shrub of majestic trees at their feet, whose crowns filter the sunlight. Therefore assign the ornamental shrub in the bed a location with the following conditions:
- Subdued to partially shaded location
- In the shade, flowers and berries thrive only sparsely
- Humid, warm and protected
- Nutrient-rich, fresh to moist garden soil
- An acidic pH of 5.0 to 6.5
Location on the balconyIf you want colorful accents on the balcony in winter and a sea of flowers in the spring, you have made a smart choice with Skimmien. The small shrubs in the pot are protected from the blazing winter sun and freezing cold, they can spend the whole year under the open sky. So that the buckets do not tip over, a wind-sheltered location is recommended. To ensure pollination, one male flower Skimmie and one female fruit Skimmie should be potted in each planter.
substratumSince the Asian rhombus plant wants a nutrient-rich and at the same time acid soil, we recommend for the pot culture rhododendron or azalea earth enriched with expanded clay or lava granulate for a good ventilation and permeability. By adding some clay, the stability of bucket and balcony box is optimized.
Tip: As a houseplant, the Skimmie feels uncomfortable, as it has to suffer from dry heating air very much. If anything, the ornamental wood in the pot should be placed in a partially shaded window seat at a cool 10 to 15 degrees Celsius, where humidity levels in excess of 60 percent are taken care of.
to waterThe casting intervals do not follow a fixed timetable. Rather, there is always a need for water when the earth has dried on the surface felt. Waterlogging and drought stress are avoided by checking the moisture content of the root disk daily by fingerprinting. How to pour a Skimmie correctly:
- Always use stale tap water or filtered rainwater
- Do not let Skimmie dry out at any time
- Allow the soil and substrate to dry slightly between waterings
- Pour the saucer into the pot after 10 minutes
Tip: A mulch layer in the bed and pot protects the soil from dryness. Well suited are bark mulch, leaves or pine needles.
During growth and flowering, your Skimmie will be grateful for extra nutrients, as the evergreen leaves, fragrant flowers and magnificent berry jewelry cost a lot of energy. For the supply in the bed and on the balcony the following options are available:
- In the bed from March to August fertilize every 4 weeks with acid leaf or needle compost
- Alternatively, spread a low-lime fertilizer in March and June, rake in and water
- In the pot and balcony box every 14 days to administer a liquid fertilizer for bog beds
- Alternatively, in spring and summer, press fertilizer sticks into the substrate with long-term effect
To cutIn view of the leisurely increase of 5 to 10 cm per year, the scissors on a Skimmia japonica is rarely used. Under the influence of the Central European climate, the ornamental shrub reaches its maximum height of 100 to 120 cm only uncut after 10 years or later. The professional pruning distinguishes after the female fruit Skimmie and the male flower Skimmie. With this cut you do everything right:
- Cut off the withered flowers in summer on male plants only when needed
- Shorten too long shoots until just above a sleeping eye
- Do not trim or prune female plants after flowering
- Every 1 to 2 years a Skimmie in the late winter auslichten
Tip: The Skimmie is slightly toxic in all parts. In particular, the red berries are not suitable for human consumption. The birds of the garden, on the other hand, are immensely happy about the valuable food source in winter.
The further the woodiness of a Skimmie has progressed, the more frost-resistant are the shoots. In the bed, therefore, at least during the first 5 years of existence, some precautions must be taken to ensure that the small shrub remains healthy and alert. In the pot and balcony box are protective measures in every late autumn on the plan. So you overwinter a Skimmia japonica with success:
- From August, gradually pour less, without causing dryness in the ball
- Do not administer fertilizer from September to March
- In the bed before the first frost on the root disk mulch with leaves and Nadelreisig
- Place pot and balcony box on wood and cover with insulating material
- The substrate is covered with leaves, straw or woody wool
repottingA skimmie takes several years to root her pot. However, when root strands grow out of the bottom opening, the small shrub signals the desire for a larger vessel with fresh soil. The best time for this action is in the spring, between the end of hibernation and the beginning of flowering. This is how you proceed step by step:
- In the new planter there is a maximum of 2 finger-width distance between root ball and edge
- Expanded clay or potsherds above the floor opening act as protection against waterlogging
- An air- and water-permeable fleece between the drainage and the substrate prevents entanglement
- Fill in a few handfuls of fresh earth over the fleece
- Use the stuffed Skimmie while maintaining the planting depth
This helps with yellow leavesWith yellow leaves, the evergreen Skimmie loses its attractiveness considerably.In the long run, the graceful small shrub dies if no adequate measures are taken against this damage pattern. The focus is on 3 common causes of yellowed leaves, which are discussed in more detail below, supplemented with helpful tips for solving the problem.
leaf chlorosisA Skimmie lacks any tolerance for lime. Therefore, every expert care manual insists on the use of an acidic soil with a pH of 5 to 6. If only hard water is used for casting, the pH jumps up because the lime content accumulates. As a result, vital iron is fixed in the soil and can not be transported through the roots to the foliage. Then the leaves turn yellow while the green leaf veins still shine through. This helps:
- Immediately pour the affected Skimmie exclusively with lime-free water
- Transfer potted plants to acidic rhododendron soil
- Undermine peat or bog bed in the bed without damaging the roots
sunburnAs an Asian forest plant the Skimmie knows no direct sunshine. If the ornamental shrub in the bed or on the balcony is still in the sun, yellow, rolling leaves are inevitable. Indications for a sunburn are yellow spots in the places where the sun hits. If these light yellow spots do not spread further, it is a location problem and not a disease or leaf chlorosis. Settle the plant immediately to a partially shaded spot. It is advantageous if the yellow leaves are not cut off, as the remaining green tissue continues to contribute to photosynthesis.
nutrient deficiencyIf leaf chlorosis and sunburn can be excluded as a cause, it is highly likely to be a nutrient deficiency. Since a Skimmia japonica as an evergreen shrub does not shed its leaves, it is particularly dependent on additional nutrients during the growth and flowering period. If it comes to a deficiency here, it deprives the leaves of the last remnants to invest in the flowers and berries, which guarantee the survival. As a result of this shift, the leaves turn yellow. This helps:
- From spring to fall start in the bed every 3 to 4 weeks fertilize with acidic compost
- Additionally fertilize with Thomaskali at the end of August / beginning of September
- On the balcony from March to August every 14 days liquid fertilizer into the irrigation water
When selecting the fertilizer, make sure that it is low in lime. A fertilizer declared for rhododendron, azalea or hydrangea also covers the nutrient needs of a skimmie.
The Skimmie thrilled with fragrant spring blossom, evergreen leaves and red berry jewelry. In order for the floral gem from the forests of East Asia to feel at home in our latitudes, a partially shaded, sheltered location is important. The soil should be sour, moist and nutritious, because with lime a Skimmia japonica may have nothing to do. In summer, the substrate should be constantly slightly moist, mainly using soft water. Every 2 to 4 weeks an acid fertilizer in solid or liquid form, guarantee vitality and flowering. In August, the winter maintenance program is modified by reducing the amount of water and adjusting the nutrient supply. Nevertheless, with yellow leaves, the most common causes are foliar chlorosis, sunburn and nutrient deficiency. How to respond correctly to these triggers is no secret after reading this manual.