Lay tiles (stone slabs) correctly


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Stone slabs are decorative, almost indestructible and can (except for their weight) move extremely easily. However, the preparation of the substrate requires meticulous work, because the stone slabs are otherwise uneven and could also form waterlogging on or under the plates. In addition, the nature of the substrate has an impact on the species to which the panels can be laid.
Requirements for the slab substrate
The substrate on which the stone slabs are to be laid must be firm, smooth and frost-free. In addition, it must either have a certain slope, consist of materials through which water can seep, or have a special drainage. A possible substrate may be concrete. However, a concrete subsoil requires its own drainage and / or drainage system after a gradient of at least 1.5 percent. In addition, the construction of a concrete substrate is very expensive because of its material. Furthermore, it can be a real challenge for laymen, depending on the size of the concrete surface to provide an optimal slope. In addition, in the case of a concrete subsoil whose drain is connected to the sewage system or whose slope falls in the direction of a public area, sewage fees are payable.
On the other hand, concrete substrates are ideal for laying the flagstones with the help of so-called plate bearings, which is probably the fastest and easiest method of laying. In addition, this variant has the advantage that the plates can be removed as needed at least as quickly and easily. The disadvantage, however, is that a stone surface which has been formed by means of said plate bearings usually can not withstand too high loads, since cavities are located under the plates. Another type of laying, which is offered in concrete substrates and is often used especially in natural stone slabs, is to lay the tiles comparable to tiles firmly in a mortar composition and to provide their interstices finally with grout, this type of installation ultimately also in the most common Underground variant is possible.
The most common underground variant
In the most common underground variant, the stone slabs are as it were on a bed of coarse gravel and fine gravel. In order to produce such a surface, a pit must be excavated either by hand with a shovel or with a hired small excavator over the entire area on which the boards are to be later. The depth of the pit depends on the desired filling level, which in turn depends directly on the expected load. For parking lots and driveways a depth of 40 cm is considered appropriate. However, if the slab area is to extend to the house, the pit should be dug another 30 cm deeper, since the finished floor must be at least the said 30 cm below the upper limit of the barrier.
Before starting excavation of the pit, it is recommended to stake the exact dimensions with corner posts and strings. If the surface is to have a slope, a guideline can be attached to the posts according to the slope. Then a layer of gravel or coarse gravel with a grain size of 0/40 is filled into the pit and compacted with a vibrator, which can be rented at the nearest hardware store along the guideline. If the space is later heavily loaded, the first layer should have a thickness of at least 20 cm.
To determine the approximate need for gravel, multiply only the length of the area by the width and then by 20 cm. On the compacted gravel layer turn squared timbers or T-rails are placed with a height of 5 to 10 cm, along which the next layer, which may consist of fine gravel, grit with a grain size of 0/5 or sand, is pulled off with a leveling bar, Optionally, the sides of the pit may be secured with curb stones, mortar or the like prior to the introduction of the filling and the laying of the stone slabs. Depending on the nature of the adjacent areas, it may also make sense to install a drainage system. Incidentally, it should also be noted that the background variant described here can of course also be applied to a concrete slab so as to obtain a significantly higher background for the slabs in a very simple and relatively inexpensive manner.
Tool and material requirements when laying panels

  • Excavator (optional)
  • shovel
  • wheelbarrow
  • straightedge
  • Jogger
  • corner posts
  • guide
  • coarse gravel / gravel
  • fine gravel / split / sand
Installation work - what should be considered?
Even if stone slabs do not necessarily have to be laid with a parallel joint course, it would be advisable for laymen, especially since they could simply orient themselves on a taut guideline when laying.In addition, joint crosses, which ensure a constant joint width or a consistent plate spacing can be used. The joint width should be based on the size of the stone slabs. It is true that the larger a stone slab is, the wider the joint should be. In addition, it is recommended to always start with whole plates, because in this way at most to the outside area plates must be cut to size with an angle grinder with diamond cutting disc.
To split plates, said grinder is first guided on the bottom and then on the front along. To prevent contamination by the sanding dust, the stone slab should be watered before and after cutting. With regard to the accurate laying of slabs which are not to be mortared or stored on slab stores, it can help to fill the joints of each slab directly after laying with filling or jointing sand, as they are more stable and thus not stable more accidentally can be moved during further work. It should be noted that many experts are from the backfill, since rainwater can run so directly through the joints.
Conclusion: Laying stone slabs - no problem for do-it-yourselfers
The laying of flagstones is a task that every skilful home improvement can handle without any problems. However, it should be worked as conscientiously as possible during the preparation of the substrate, since the smallest errors could only be noticeable when laying the panels, but then they would be very difficult to repair.
  • For the more complex cutting of hard and large plates, it is advisable to use a cutting machine. These can be borrowed in the building materials trade for a small fee. It is important that you wear gloves, ear protection and safety glasses.
  • It is important that the plates are adjusted just before insertion. This avoids blurring plates.
  • If this happens anyway and the plates were not too expensive, you can smash them and use them as gravel for the next route. Thus, no blended disc remains unused.
  • The plates are laid similar to the plaster. After straightening the sandy surface again, lay the plates and solidify them with a few rubber mallets.
  • Between the individual plates small wooden wedges are laid to achieve a uniform joint strength. After the plates have been laid on the sandy soil, you turn fine sand into the joints and trapped them.
It is important that under the plates no cavity is created!
  • For terraces, it is recommended to lay the slabs in concrete. This does not require much concrete. A thin layer covering the floor is enough.
  • The plates on top are more stable and the edge plates are less likely to come loose.
  • However, the joints should be filled with sand rather than concrete to guarantee the drainage of the water.
  • A later greening of the joints with short grass or moss can provide a good optical means.
To maintain the plates later, a high-pressure cleaning device is often used. These are to be used without hesitation. However, you should be careful not to rinse all joints. The high pressure unit should always be handled very carefully.
Stone slabs - Lay step by step to the garden path
  • Choice of plates: Polygonal plates look very rustic, all straight plates fit well with modern design
  • Plate size: The smaller the plates, the easier the laying, the more work the grouting will do
  • Selection of curb stones to match the flagstones
  • Calculation of the required quantity and order
  • Determining a favorable storage space for the pallets with the plates
  • Inspect plates for contamination through the transport packaging and clean if necessary
  • Dig the topsoil on the garden path in the depth of the base course (15 to 20 cm depending on the planned load)
  • Apply base course (gravel-sand mixture or gravel)
  • Compact the base course and remove, paying attention to sufficient slope towards the garden (minimum 2.5%)
  • Lay curbs according to manufacturer's instructions
  • Laying bed of a few centimeters of sand (2 - 5 cm, grain size 0 - 2 mm) apply
  • Compact laying bed and pull straight off
  • Lay panels according to the respective installation instructions, while maintaining a uniform joint width (minimum 1 cm)
  • Tap freshly laid panels with a rubber hammer, depending on the selected plates individually or after a few pieces
  • If there are height differences while knocking, they are compensated with sand
  • When the installation is complete, the filling of the joints can be tackled
  • Possible is the solid grouting with a mortar material or jointing with unbound material (sand, quartz sand, grain size 0 - 2 mm)
  • After the final cleaning, the flagstones can still be impregnated

Although the basic approach is always similar, you would of course need to inquire before laying exactly what the manufacturer says about laying exactly these panels.With every kind of stone slab, there are special tricks whose compliance ensures that your garden path is really beautiful.

Lay tiles (stone slabs) correctly

FAQ - 💬

❓ What is the correct way to lay slabs?

👉 How to lay concrete slabs

  1. Start by digging to a depth of 150mm.
  2. Tip in the sub-base and rake it evenly to a depth of 100mm.
  3. Ensure the site is smooth, flat and compacted.
  4. Next, prepare a concrete mix that consists of three parts sand and one part cement. ...
  5. Lower the first paving slab onto the concrete mix.

❓ What is the best way to lay natural stone slabs?

👉 The best way to lay slabs is applying mortar and positioning one at a time. Once spread out, gently lay your first slab on top of it and tap it level using your rubber mallet. Once you're satisfied, you can use your spirit level to check that it's flat and then repeat this for your remaining slabs.Сохраненная копия

❓ How do you lay stone tiles?

👉 And use an Ardex mixing puddle and drill mixer to thoroughly mix the adhesive. Using a gauging trowel scoop up the adhesive onto a solid bed floor trowel. And apply it to your floor.

❓ Is it best to lay slabs on sand or cement?

👉 So Can You Ever Lay On Just Sand? We'd always, always recommend bedding slabs down. Whilst you may get away with it in some instances, the vast majority of slabs won't stay put when laid straight onto sand. We'd recommend bedding the slabs down with a simple mortar mix each and every time.

❓ Do you leave a gap when laying slabs?

👉 Lay it into the concrete mix and gently tap it with a rubber mallet so it's fixed in place. Ideally it wants to sit 15mm in the mortar. Repeat this process, leaving a 10-15mm gap between each paving slab, until your patio is covered.

❓ How do you lay stone pavers?

👉

  1. Prepare the Patio Area. Laying pavers is a DIY project that takes about one weekend to complete. ...
  2. Clear Out Grass and Soil. ...
  3. Add Paver Base. ...
  4. Add and Level the Paver Sand. ...
  5. Place the Paver Stones. ...
  6. Cut Pavers. ...
  7. Add Edging Stones or Paver Edging. ...
  8. Finish the Patio.

❓ How to lay natural stone paving slabs?

👉 With your base construction out of the way, it’s now time to start laying your natural stone paving slabs. To do this, start by preparing your chosen cement mixture and applying it to the highest area of your sub-base to a depth of approx. 50mm. The best way to lay slabs is applying mortar and positioning one at a time.

❓ How do you lay concrete slabs?

👉 The best way to lay slabs is applying mortar and positioning one at a time. Once spread out, gently lay your first slab on top of it and tap it level using your rubber mallet. Once you’re satisfied, you can use your spirit level to check that it’s flat and then repeat this for your remaining slabs.

❓ How do you lay bluestone on a concrete slab?

👉 Tip: For irrigation lines or outdoor electricity, lay a 3-inch-diameter PVC conduit over the subgrade. In a wheelbarrow, mix one-part dry cement with 12 parts stone dust to use as a setting bed for the bluestone. Slowly add enough water to make a stiff mix. Starting in one corner, shovel out enough mix to lay one stone.

❓ How do you set a 100 pound stone slab?

👉 “Setting stone is similar to laying bathroom tile,” Roger says. You prepare a base, level each piece, and fill in the joints. But while tile can be set with one hand, laying a 100-pound stone slab takes brawn and is best handled by two people.

Video Board: Trowel and Error - How to Set Tile the Right Way.

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