The Content Of The Article:
- Manure - plant manure - stinging nettle
- To produce nettle
- Use nettle
Plant cultivation is an issue for almost every gardener today - and especially for hopeful young gardeners who have vowed to promote all life in their garden and to use no harmful chemicals. Only until the first manure is then actually set, not only the city gardener passes some time of hesitant approach... let's face it, who wants to squirt around in the garden with liquid manure? Subsequently, it is explained thoroughly and clarified why you should "squirt with liquid manure", especially with stinging nettle; after a look at what Jauche actually is:
Manure - plant manure - stinging nettleLet's start with the manure: The people who can even begin with the term, think of Odl or Puddel, Sudel or Bschütti, manure or Stink broth... joke aside, the stuff is just as unappetizing, as the regional names just mentioned indicate it: Liquid waste collected in catch basins called septic tank (details are deleted because of high disgust factor), which are pumped down into manure barrels by suction tube and distributed as fertilizer on fields / meadows. Where manure is increasingly being used to move nitrate levels in groundwater to areas where tap water from "Germany's cleanest food" becomes a health hazard (also a minor side effect of factory farming, which many-meat eaters usually do not want to hear about ).
The stinking, brown liquid smokes a little less and is, above all, much less harmful to the environment and humans, if it is not made from excrement, but from plant remains. This vegetable manure is the only manure for our northerners, every stinking junk of living beings is called manure there (and like in Bavaria prefers to biogas processed). A plant manure is created by mixing plant material with water and allowing it to stand until the plant material has decomposed and the broth no longer foams.
It can be made from all kinds of plants; because it's about content and not about beauty, especially from the herbs, which are already fought by some gardeners as un-herbs. Horsetail and giersch, dandelion and garlic, onion smoke and chamomile etc. have much to offer in terms of content - plant feces occupy an important place within a supply concept that does not feed plants in the garden quickly and one-sidedly, but rather sustainably and ecologically:
- Meaningful, sustainable fertilization has the goal of increasing the fertility of the garden floor
- It is not first asked which nutrients which plant just needs, but what the healthy garden soil needs
- Mineral fertilizers were developed by the chemical industry during starvation times after World War II
- In order to provide the population with fast healthy food, the plant nutrients were brought into water-soluble form
- So they can be absorbed directly by the plant roots and act very fast
- A concept that is useful only in situations of shortage, but which are no longer available today
- Today, the fertilizers are usually overdosed with lightning effect, which brings neither the plants nor the garden soil benefits
- On the contrary, excessive nitrogen creates soft, water-rich tissue and plants that are susceptible to pests and diseases
- Active ingredients not used by the plants, especially the easily soluble nitrate, are also washed out of the soil into the groundwater
- Organic fertilizers have a different, gentler action, because they are processed by soil organisms and made available to the plants
- After a soil survey that identifies the status (should be repeated every few years), the soil will be cared for depending on the outcome and situation
- Either green manure is sown, which protects the soil, loosens and stores excess nutrients that can later be made useful to plants
- Or the garden soil is supplied via organic fertilizers with a harmonious blend of the main nutrients
- The best organic fertilizer is compost
- The next effective fertilizers are guano, fresh and dried animal manure, horn shavings, blood and bone meal
- Vegetable fumes contain nitrogen, phosphorus, potash and minerals and are therefore suitable for fertilization
- For high-erosive plants but rather to support the main nutrient inputs
- Almost every herb has as additional talent to offer a few active ingredients against known garden pests such as aphids and Co.
- Plant feces are also important plant strengthening agents that increase the plant's resistance to harmful organisms
- They do this by stimulating the plant's own defenses, creating pest-repellent odors, or fortifying the plant cells in such a way that pests "bite their teeth off"
Tip: The plants that are supplied with fertilizers from the pre-pack or bottle in a garden planted with only a few species, without weeds, are the same as those who no longer cook, but only eat prepared or prepared food: Diversity is lost, and with it the ability of the metabolism to react to new substances or microorganisms, and at some point often health.
For many natural gardeners, nettles are the "mother of the plant fumigants", which is why it is best suited to explain the production of vegetable fumes:
To produce nettle
For the cultivation of vegetable fodder fresh plants are best used, but also dried herbs unfold their effect. This is how the nettle slurry is applied:
- Provide a suitable container at the appropriate place
- Suitable vessels are z. As buckets of plastic, for larger quantities, the barrels sold for catching rainwater are very good
- Barrels made of wood or earthenware are also suitable, but strong people should be available for transport
- Tons of any sheet metal, metal, aluminum alloys should preferably not be used because they can chemically react with the broth or can interfere with the reactions in the brew
- Suitable places are not too close to the house or on the patio, because the manure during the fermentation is quite lively and does not develop very pleasant smells
- The fermentation tank should also not disappear in the last corner of the garden, because the manure is then usually no longer stirred daily
- For each 10 l of water, 1 kg of fresh or 150-200 g dried nettles are needed
- The complete plants are used without roots
- Fresh nettles should best not have seeds that could germinate in the soil despite fermentation
- The sooner the stinging nettle is ready, the finer the stinging nettles should be
- The quickest slurry originates from stinging nettles, which were previously shredded with a little liquid in the blender
- The herbs come into the fermentation vessel and are infused with the desired amount of water
- Rainwater or stagnant water from the rain barrel are best suited for application
- The fermentation vessel should not be filled to the top, as the foam produced during fermentation rises
- After the herbs have been added in cold water, stir well once
- Cover the fermentation vessel so that no thirsty birds or other small animals fall into the bin
- From there, stir once a day
- If a handful of stone meal and a few drops of valerian extract are stirred in, it will slightly bind the unpleasant odor
- It takes about 10 days to two weeks for the fermentation process to complete
- The sunnier the vessel is, the faster it works
- The completed fermentation can be recognized by the fact that the manure no longer foams
Use nettleThere is a long-standing experience of the use of stinging nettle, which gives you a whole range of uses:
Finished fermented stinging nettle
- Undiluted, fermented nettlejauche can be used as a bioactivator to promote rotting, by shedding it over the compost heap
- In 10-fold dilution, it can be applied all year round to promote growth on the garden floor, where there is always a visible need
- Fermented nettle hives promote the growth of seedlings in 20-fold dilution
- In addition, a root bath in 20-fold diluted nettle slurry helps against late blight on potatoes and other solanaceae
The "general manure fertilization" in 10-fold dilution helps plants that are a little unfunny to get back into a better growth mood. It can also be applied to plants that will soon show a strong growth spurt. "Pushed too far" would be plants that are sensitive to nitrogen-rich supplements; Peas, carrots, garlic and onions count z. To them. On the other hand, all starvationists can use a fast-acting fertilizer boost in the pre-harvest period.
The classical strong-consuming plants are to be found among the Kreuzblütengewächsen (radish, Radieschen, Rucola, all kinds of cabbage except Kohlrabi, kale, turnips) and the Solanaceae (eggplant, potato, pepper and Co., tomatoes, cucumbers, cucurbits). But also artichokes, strawberries, rhubarb, turnips (beetroot, beetroot, sugar beets), celery, sunflowers, asparagus, spinach, chrysanthemums, geraniums and all fruit trees are happy about a few sips of nettle during the growing season.
Furthermore, the nettle gland promotes the development of the green leaf pigment chlorophyll in all green plants, which promotes the photosynthesis rate and thus the growth, attracts useful soil producers such as earthworms and acts ¬vorbeugend against excessive proliferation of fungi.
If it is not about pest management, but about fertilization, the liquid should not be poured over the leaves, but only on the soil in the root area. Because the manure in 10facher dilution is still so strong that it could burn delicate leaves and stems.
Fermenting manureIf you have sensitive plants in the garden, you can already branch off a bit of manure during the fermentation process. Mix one liter of fermenting nettle with half a liter of horsetail and they have an excellent plant tonic against aphids and spider mites. With these 1.5 liters, you will also come very far: The vigorous essence is diluted 50 times before it is sprayed on the plants just before the leaf and flower formation. Nevertheless, you should always apply directly to the plants sprayed Jauchen whenever the plants are not just fully irradiated by the sun, so on cloudy days, in the evening, at dusk.
Cold water extract from the nettleThe cold water extract you could theoretically branch off from a just established slurry; but as it is applied undiluted, it can also be applied immediately in the watering can. Put 1 kg of crushed nettles into a 10-liter watering can, let them stand for 12 to 24 hours and pour or spray the mixture wherever there are too many aphids. Repeat the treatment until the aphids are decimated to the limit. With these remnants you can then simply wait until they move to the next plant or bless the time. Again, do not work in direct sunlight so that there are no burns.
The stinging nettle can be used in the spring (as soon as enough stinging nettles can be collected) in larger quantities and be filled in part into tightly closed containers, in which it keeps until the fall. Before filling for a slightly longer storage time, parts of the plant that have not yet been decomposed should be strained or collected and given to the compost for further rotting.
If someone tells you that the stinging nettle is unlikely to last until the autumn: It may be, it is a liquid full of living microorganisms, which continues to work just like even attached elderflower sect and in extreme cases could "explode". But it does not matter who in the garden really wants to have nature around it, it has to do with a lot of living organisms, all of which can behave a bit unforeseen... and a manure that continues fermenting or turning over, can still enrich the compost,