The Content Of The Article:
- Conservation cut for lush flowers
- Remove root runners
- Rejuvenate old lilac in spring
- Educational cut for young lilac
- Dwarf lilac cut
The lilac (Syringa vulgaris) is an old cottage garden plant and is still one of the most popular flower shrubs. Its flower buds are usually in pairs at the ends of the branches formed in the previous year and open depending on the region from the end of April to mid-May. The fragrant splendor is usually over at the beginning of June and the dried inflorescences are no longer very attractive.
Conservation cut for lush flowers
Who disturbs it, can remove the withered flower candles immediately after flowering with secateurs. Cut them out without injuring the young, yet soft shoots that are driven out just below the inflorescences - they already carry the flower buds for the next season.
When the flowers wither, you cut off the old inflorescences on a well-developed pair of leaves
Whether the removal of the old inflorescences actually means that the plant puts more energy into the formation of the new flower buds, is disputed among professionals. Observations show that even uncut lilacs remain flowering until old age. The older branches, however, age over time and the lateral branches within the crown gradually die off. As a result, the shrubs become flared from the inside over the years and are relatively heavily ramified in the outer crown area. To counteract this process, after flowering you should cut back every third flower shoot a little more and either derive it from an already existing side shoot or an eye. Even stronger cuts up to the two-year wood are possible. Tip: Just cut off a few bouquets for the vase regularly during the flowering season - this automatically prevents the crown from becoming overgrown and crowned.
Remove root runners
Especially with grafted lilacs you should tear off the foothills regularly
All varieties of the noble lilac (Syringa vulgaris hybrids) form Wurzelausläufer. Especially many of the unwanted sprouts form on the near-surface main roots of the refined lilacs. These non "rootless" offspring are wildlings and should therefore be removed again and again during the summer as long as they are still thin and poorly lignified. Tear the foothills out of the earth with a powerful jerk in the direction of the trunk. Due to the staggering problem, most lilacs in the laboratory today are propagated by meristem culture. They usually form only a few foothills and they have the same flower color as the mother plant - for these reasons, they are less problematic.
Rejuvenate old lilac in spring
The precious lilac also tolerates a strong rejuvenation cut, but you should distribute this over a period of two to three years. This will avoid blooming for a few years. Cut one-third to one-half of the main branches at different altitudes in early spring - from knee height to just above ground level. As the season progresses, you will be reviving with numerous new shoots, of which you will leave only two or three strong, well-distributed specimens next spring. These are in turn shortened to make them stronger and to branch well.
In early spring, you can rejuvenate old lilacs by cutting back on some of the oldest branches
Educational cut for young lilac
If you have bought a new noble lilac, you should immediately remove all kinked and weak shoots when planting in spring or autumn and shorten the main shoots by about one-third to half each. Although you will have to do without flowering in the first year, but for the young shrubs build up nice and bushy from the bottom and then become the more magnificent in old age.
Dwarf lilac cut
Low lilac species such as the dwarf fragrant lilac (Syringa meyeri 'Palibin') or the Korean lilac (Syringa patula 'Miss Kim') differ significantly in growth from the noble lilac. They are usually only 1.5 to 2 meters high and form a very dense, bushy crown. These species get a Auslichtungsschnitt right after flowering quite well. In about three years, one cuts off the oldest branches just above the ground.