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Pond liner should be environmentally friendly, easy to install, stable, durable and easy to dispose of. You have to know that the deeper a pond is, the thicker the foil must be, because it has to withstand great pressure.
Types of pond foils
1. PVC film (polyvinyl chloride)
- Most commonly used pond liner
- Very soft, flexible material, high elasticity, high load capacity
- Best price
- Can be processed very well in warm temperatures, also stick
- Ideal for small and medium-sized ponds, even for complicated pond shapes
- Prone to wrinkles, but other slides as well
- Lifespan up to 20 years (with good workmanship)
- Does not tolerate sunlight and should therefore be well covered everywhere
- Available in several colors, black, brown, olive, blue, beige
- In the past, plasticizers were often used, including stabilizers and chlorine. Better to ask what is in it today.
- Environmentally friendly, recyclable
- About 30 percent lighter than PVC
- Convenient for streams and shallow waters
- Larger web widths available, which can often be laid in the piece
- Unflexible, quite stiff, therefore harder to work
- Working with hot air
- Not flexible enough for small ponds
- Made of synthetic rubber
- Good processing possibilities
- Also for big ponds
- High stretch and tear resistance
- Very UV resistant
- Fish and plant friendly
- Cold and heat resistant, from -40 to + 40° C
- Ideal for difficult ponds
- Longest life
- In black, olive and sand colors
- Subsequent wrinkling possible
- To repair damage only by vulcanization
Lay pond liner
Laying pond liner is not difficult. Large ponds, which are laid in one piece, without attaching webs to each other, have the problem that the film is very heavy and you need numerous helpers. Small ponds can be easily managed alone or as a couple. When laying the groundwork is very important. The actual pond has to be dug, all sharp stones and objects and also all roots have to be removed. Both the floor and the walls of the excavated pond must be hit or tapped. The next step is to apply a layer of sand on the floor. Then a protective fleece is placed over it. Both measures serve the protection and the uncomplicated access to the pond. You can just step inside. This can be important to get to the technology, for example to the pump, to plant or to plant, to repair and for other reasons.
First, the outlines of the pond are outlined with sand or string. Also sawdust are suitable. Then the pond is dug up. Small ponds can be made with shovels and spades, for larger ponds you better borrow a small excavator. Pay attention to the different terraces when digging. A pond needs a swamp zone, a shallow water and a deep water zone. All areas and also the slopes must be properly consolidated.
- Outline pond
- Dig up the pond
- Pay attention to different terraces
- Remove stones, roots and all sharp objects
- Solidify all areas
Tip: Place the fleece across the direction of rolling of the pond liner!
Lay the film
When the pond is dug up, it can be calculated or measured how much pond liner is needed. How to do that, read below: How to correctly calculate the size of the pond liner, also at Garden-Landscape.com. Today pond liner is usually delivered in one piece, ready and folded and complicated on a pallet. Specialists put pond foil fan-like on the short side and roll it up on the long side. Big slides are very heavy. Upon delivery, care should be taken that the pallet is parked as close as possible to the pond. To lay the film, it is important that you do not run with rough shoes on this. Either walk barefoot or with shoes with rounded soles. It is important to ensure that no pebbles stick to the feet or soles, because this can damage the film.
- Roll out the pond liner along the long side.
- Then unfold the fan-folded foil into the pond pit. Carefully pull the layers apart. Depending on the pond size should be worked with several helpers.
- Absolutely avoid tension and tensile loads
- Create cable ducts for electrical installations, water pipes for pumps and the like
- When laying it is inevitable that form numerous small wrinkles. These are pulled together to the pond corners, so that there is a single, larger fold. This fold is simply folded away for each corner. If you want, you can also glue them together.
- Complain the foil with stones, plates or similar at the upper edge.
- Fill the pond slowly with water, but first only up to a third.
Due to the weight of the water, the film is pulled even deeper from the edge. The film adapts to the ground, possibly existing wrinkles usually disappear. The water should stay that way for at least a day. Then pebbles can be distributed on the individual steps. Pond substrate can also be used, but contains many nutrients and these promote the algal bloom. Most plants can do without this special soil. Now plants can already be used. It is best to use plant baskets. These prevent the pond plants from spreading in an uncontrolled manner and also make it easier to work. The pond can now be filled up. Rain water is best, but with large ponds this is often difficult. Tap water usually works too.
- Leave water for a while so that the remaining wrinkles can still be forgiven.
- Distribute pebbles on the plains
- Teicherde is an alternative, but makes the water cloudy and contains many nutrients.
- Use pond plants
- Completely fill up with water
So that no water is lost from the pond, because it is deducted from the earth surrounding the pond and the plants growing in it, a capillary barrier must be established. The easiest way is to reach it by a small, about 10 cm high hill around the pond. Immediately behind a 10 cm deep ditch is dug. The pond fleece and the foil must be laid over the hill to the ditch. The ditch can be filled with river pebbles or other stones because of the optics. There must be no connection between water and surrounding soil!
- Pile about 10 cm high hills around the pond.
- Dig out a 10 cm deep ditch behind it.
- Lay the fleece fleece and foil in the ditch
- Then ditch with decorative stones
- No connection between water and surrounding soil
Anyone who has decided to buy pond film railways and then to connect them, has got additional work. Usually today, the film is cut to size by experts and delivered to measure. Each foil can be put together, which of course is also important for the repair. The easiest way to mend and glue PVC film. For this, a permanently elastic adhesive is used. The foil has to be very clean. It is overlapped on top of each other. Fold the piece to be glued, apply glue and lay the other pieces of film over it. Now only has to be pressed firmly.
The artificial rubber film is more complicated. The film is vulcanised, which sounds harder than it is. It requires a two-component system. First a primer is applied. On this a tape is applied and pressed. Fold over the second primed surface, peel off the protective tape and press both surfaces together. It's best to roll over it with a scroll.
Both processes require utmost cleanliness.
Laying pond liner is uncomplicated. Soft, supple, flexible film is easier to interpret than something firmer, more inflexible. Small ponds are easy to create, with large help is needed. The easiest way is to have the film cut to size, glued or welded to be delivered. The rolling of the webs and the subsequent bonding is practiced only rarely. This facilitates the work many times over. Important for a film pond are the preparation of the substrate, the sand layer and the protective fleece. Wrinkles are not desired, but almost always form. It makes sense to tighten the many small wrinkles into a few big ones. They can be folded away to the back. In addition, the capillary lock should not be forgotten.