To multiply strawberries - to share seeds / offshoot - how it works!

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To multiply strawberries

When you have harvested the first ripe strawberries from your own garden, you immediately understand why strawberries are Germans' absolute favorite fruit - in the following you will learn how easily strawberries can be multiplied and why increasing the number of correct varieties brings much more strawberry flavor than You are used to the usual trade strawberry.

Forever strawberries, and that for free

Strawberry plants were quite exhausted in producing the thick red flower bottoms that attract insects for pollination (and are eaten by us as strawberries). They usually do it well for only two or three years (old varieties can be more enduring, we'll get to that), then the harvest subsides and the exhausted strawberry plants should be replaced.
Without a handle on the wallet, you will come to new strawberries by multiplying the existing strawberry plants. This is not a problem, you usually even have the choice between vegetative propagation (cloning) or sexual reproduction from seeds:

1st offshoot

Most strawberries form foothills at the surface of the earth, which you cut away in favor of fruit development as long as the strawberry plants support well. If she does not wear well, you can grow the foothills to make new strawberry plants out of them.
A task that will not overwhelm you:
  • Strawberries are easy to propagate when they form "offshoots" according to regulations
  • They soon look like junior strawberries
  • After some time nutrition by the mother they usually show root approaches
  • Together with the leaves in the upper area, it is now plants that are capable of self-sufficient nutrition through photosynthesis
  • The shoots can be separated from the mother plant with a sharp knife
  • And should first be planted in a pot with compost soil for two or three
  • Because they still have to form strong roots and gather strength before they can survive in the field
  • For this purpose, the young strawberries are placed for a few weeks in a sunny, sheltered place
  • If you potty the foothills very early, the "umbilical cord" to the mother plant is initially preserved
  • Because then the ability to self-sufficient diet does not work yet
  • Or not at all, new roots form foothills only when in contact with the earth
  • To which you need to help outside the pot hanging foothills only by potting
  • The pots are placed around the mother during the period of rooting
  • If the young plants look pretty strong and get the first new leaves, they may have formed enough new roots
  • Usually it is ready after two or three weeks
  • Whether the root ball has developed well, you can see if you crop the plants to plant out
  • If you have a nice tangle of fine and fresh-looking white roots in front of you, everything is fine
  • If not, the plant stays in the pot for a little longer

Offshoot of strawberry plants

Usually offshoots are taken for multiplication in early summer (a little later, when they are cut away for harvesting). They are then already recognizable as separate strawberry plants and show their own small roots. This approach fits in well with the natural growth rhythm of the strawberry plant in that it begins in the summer to form in her heart the flower buds for the next season to allow them to mature in late summer / fall. That's why strawberries should always be in the soil mid to end of August, regardless of whether they are offspring of their own seedlings or completely replanted.
They can grow rooted seedlings until September, but then have to expect yield losses next year. Why you can assume that even the late-set strawberries will blossom and fruit next year (and ignore the instructions that warn of total crop failure in the fall of planted strawberries), see the article "Balcony Strawberries" in the Wintering section.
If the young plants show first flowers in the same season, you should remove them, so that the plants develop well and vigorously, to bring good crops next year.
It is usually recommended to place strawberries in a location that has not had strawberries for the last three years. This is to prevent the soil fatigue that inhibits plant development when strawberry plants (and other rose plants, this family of plants is famous for their difficulty with soil fatigue) are cultivated at the same site for longer.
If you have enough gardening space to 'transplant' the strawberries, you can follow this recommendation without worrying about the mysteries of soil fatigue. Even in the small garden, strawberries can quite easily be moved to a new location every few years if you cultivate other crops and crops.Other plant families are also happy if they can move a bit, usually establishes a kind of exchange of rings of useful plants (strawberries, for example, like a former bean bed, because the left behind by the bean roots nitrogen nodules do them good).
If your garden area is limited and precious, and the strawberry plants, along with a few herbs, are actually your only crops (for which no other stand is planned), it could be tight for the new strawberries. Then you can either halve the area and change the strawberry plants alternately (and maybe outsource a few strawberries in boxes or tubs, see article "balcony strawberries"), or counteract the soil fatigue with creativity and soil knowledge, more in the article "fertilize strawberries properly",
If you read that "strawberry plants should be replaced annually if possible," you do not have to believe that. Strawberries are perennials that grow in one location for at least three years (or much longer, depending on the variety) and bring you nice crops. Certainly one-year-old culture has the advantage that there is always a selection of the plants. Replacing plants that are completely in the juice, however, is about as logical as constantly buying new cars, driving them for a while and then scrapping them so that a constant selection of the cars takes place... Certainly every year the crop area can be changed and it is also true that strawberries deprive the soil of nutrients. To counteract this nutrient depletion by changing the acreage every year is not very recommendable for home gardeners - with the method you are soon in China with your strawberries, but your garden floor still suffers from a lack of nutrients.
You should even distrust the advice of not cultivating strawberries for more than two to three years at the same location. This may be the case with the modern cultivars, many of which are drawn to "expenditure in the first year of existence" and are then disposed of. If you rely on old varieties, you have to deal with a more robust category of plants. Many old strawberries, z. As the famous 'Schindler' and their close relatives, wear only in the fourth year best and can be with a little floor care (see "fertilize strawberries properly") for years in the same place.

2nd seed

young strawberry plant

If strawberries are good, the foothills must be cut in favor of the harvest so early that they are poorly rooted; These strawberry plants can be better propagated from seeds. Not only does it make you happy with friends of strawberry plants, it also helps you to have a summer full of strawberries if you sow the seeds later in time so that the strawberries gradually ripen. Surely, there are monthly strawberries, which bring a crop from spring to late autumn - who wants to harvest real strawberries in perceptible quantities, is with isolated, usually not very aromatic fruits but not necessarily happy, only sowing "real strawberries" also brings " right strawberry harvest ".
As easy as propagation from seeds is - their extraction could be a little tricky. Because the strawberry is botanically no berry (with a seed in the middle like the "Daffelbeere" or several seeds like the "Panzerbeere pumpkin"), but a "Sammelnussfrucht" with tasty thickened flower soil (the "strawberry") and many small yellow nuts on its surface. These nuts are so tiny and tender that most of us have never consciously seen a strawberry seed or felt it on the tongue (per strawberry you swallow around 100 seeds).
According to this story, "creepy-decaying city children" ants find sympathetic: ants drag whole strawberries into their burrows to "delight their larvae with strawberries without cream". Since the larvae eat the seeds that are huge and hard for them, just as we do not eat the date kernels, the seed nuts remain - and are quite well behaved by the ant parents (or routinely in daily housekeeping, or in the exercise of "anticipatory stockpiling") transported into nature, so that they can germinate to new strawberries... If the ants in the strawberry paradise land outnumbered, you can z. With vermouth or strong peppermint tea spoil the appetite, they usually move after such a storm surge (to the neighbors).
These tiny yellow nuts contain in even smaller dimensions everything that the "germinal seed" needs: seed coat, (hopefully) the embryo + nutrient tissue in the embryo sac created by pollination of the egg cell + cell division; the complete equipment to germinate and survive until the growing plant becomes self-sufficient by developing photosynthetic roots and leaves for nutrition.
The attempt to pulp the seeds off the fresh strawberry with fingernail / toothpicks therefore often ends in "pest-like damage to the germinal factory"; it works better:
  • Halve fully ripe strawberry
  • Dry with the cut side on newsprint paper
  • Jerking newspaper back and forth until most of the seeds have fallen off
  • Carefully push remaining seeds with the blunt side of a knife from the outer shell


Now you can put the seeds in a dark, dry container and store them until seeded in the spring (or passed on to people with garden and strawberry hunger with the following sowing instructions):
  • Stratify seeds one to three months before breeding
  • Means: break dormancy, usually makes the nature with winter cold
  • Alternatively, the refrigerator ran (or the window sill outside, the unheated garage)
  • One month of cold is usually enough, only with rare seeds you should be sure of no
  • Ready for sowing should / should be the seed at the earliest in mid-February
  • Previously seeded seedlings do not reach the bed more, but mostly not:
  • They go in for lack of light or develop unusable Geiltriebe
  • Strawberry plants should be in the sowing pot until the beginning of March for normal June / July harvest
  • Later sowed seeds move the harvest backwards (or into the next year)
  • Just before sowing, simmer seeds for several hours in lukewarm water
  • Sprinkle in pots / pots with lean (sandy, not nutritious) potting soil
  • Pressing, max. 3 mm high, spray wet and cover transparently
  • Set up bright (sun only indirectly), ventilate at least every other day
  • Minimum temperature 16° C, at optimal 20° C the seeds germinate faster
  • The germ duration otherwise depends on the variety, averages 2 to 6 weeks
  • If seedlings are visible, remove the cover
  • Pike 2 cm high seedlings or thin with scissors
  • With a stature height of about 5 cm, the pupils are allowed "off to the bed"
Any activity to secure the "eternal free strawberry supply" is worth twice, if you choose the right strawberry variety:

Trade strawberries and real strawberries

In the mass trade (group-operated garden centers, plant discounters, hardware stores, spring offers, food discounters, with all internet platforms trading) you will usually get strawberry seedlings / seeds of strawberry varieties grown for commercial strawberry cultivation. They are being produced anyway on an industrial scale, and the "gardener supply" can be easily branched off and forwarded to suitable (or less suitable) outlets.
These cultivated fruit cultivars have the "optimally salable fruit" as a breeding goal, which not only benefits the hobby gardener: These cultivars must have a whole series of properties. For approval for commercial cultivation, the Federal Plant Variety Office examines 40 different criteria - the taste does not count. He therefore often enough on the track; Again and again you can read reviews in which the "delightful aroma" of a sales description is described as "meaningless", "unusually intense" is "tasted not so tingling", the "very fine flavor" is too fine to find it,
The propagation of modern cultivars then also often has gambling character: Some varieties of garden strawberries and most of the strawberries (to "permanent wearer" cultivated forms of wild strawberry) no longer foothills, seeds in the laboratory blended or speed bred varieties do not necessarily produce plants similar to the mother plant (see "Sowing and Prefering Strawberries" for more information).

strawberry plants

But traditional strawberry farming, which has produced more than 1,000 varieties of strawberry alone since the eighteenth century, lives on alongside industrial breeding; many of the old varieties have survived and can be purchased from specialized nurseries (,, product search strawberries) or private breeders (search through forums, file sharing).
Buy from traders who can personally ask you about their strawberries or the emergence of strawberry seeds or seedlings, where you can see the parent plants grow and maybe even taste the fruits (as jam). Then you multiply strawberries that bear fruits with real strawberry flavor (or peculiarities like scented strawberries and spicy strawberries).
Then the multiplication is much more fun, curious house gardeners are still a bit further and experiment with the other types of strawberry, which are cultivated by humans: Aromatic alienating apricot strawberries and particularly intense tasting Chile strawberries; but again foothills forming strawberries or musk strawberries from the Italian Piedmont, for the gourmets to travel extra on strawberry time; maybe also a scarlet strawberry variety called 'Little Scarlett', grown since 1750 and (today) not to be had under 10, - € per jam jar... Have fun and good strawberry hunger!

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