The Content Of The Article:
- Radical pruning as soon as possible
- High summer bloomers
- Makeover with scissors
- cutting techniques
- preservation section
- Pruning of dwarf shrubs
- Spring flowering: cut after flowering
The optimal time for pruning is controversial even among experts. Basically you can cut bushes around the year. For the winter cut speaks that the plants are better to overlook and do not lose so much substance because they have no leaves. The summer cut has the advantage that the wounds heal faster. Although flowering shrubs naturally grow without cutting. In the garden, they should also bear many flowers and have a beautiful crown, which can be influenced in some spring flowering and almost all summer bloomers by the right cut.
Radical pruning as soon as possible
Summer flowering shrubs are in top form with an annual pruning in early spring. Start the cut as early as possible - in milder weather at the end of January. Reason: The sooner you cut, the sooner the plant will adapt to the new condition and form new buds on the remaining stumps. Out of these the flowering plants develop for the new season. Because of the imbalance between root system and crown, which results from the pruning, the new shoots are particularly long and vigorous and the flowers also correspondingly large and numerous.
High summer bloomers
With summer bloomers like the blue louvers, you are now rigorously cutting back all shoots from the previous year
Higher flowering shrubs such as the summer lilac (Buddleja davidii hybrids) or the blue laurel (Perovskia abrotanoides) cut back best with a sharp secateurs. Make sure that from each shoot from the previous year, only a short stub with a maximum of two buds stops. If the shrub becomes too dense over the years, remove individual shoots - preferably the weaker ones - completely. The method of sectioning also applies to bearded flowers (Caryopteris clandonensis), Clove flower (Ceanothus x delilianus), Hydrangea paniculata (Hydrangea paniculata), Shrub or Ball Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens), Bush Mallow (Lavatera thuringiaca) and Garden Marshmallow (Hibiscus syriacus ).
Makeover with scissors
The shrub can work wonders. Cut only the species that the cut does really well. Not all shrubs need a regular cut. All the more valuable species will bloom without this care. These shrubs can be recognized by the fact that they bear flowers on annual or perennial wood and grow exclusively on the end buds of the branches. All evergreen species also get along without cutting. They tolerate it quite well, but do not bloom more intensively with a pruning. The species related to fruit trees, such as ornamental apples, should be bleached when their crowns become very dense.
The following shrubs are not cut regularly: ornamental maple (Acer), rock pear (Amelanchier), dogwood (Cornus, except C. alba), bells Hazel (Corylopsis), daphne, spindle-tree (Euonymus), spring bush (Fothergilla), lily-of-the-valley shrub (Halesia), Witch hazel (Hamamelis), laburnum, magnolia, fox (Nothofagus), medlar (Photinia), tree (Styrax), snowball (all but Viburnum opulus).
There are different cutting techniques: The Auslichtungsschnitt keeps spring and early summer bloomers flowering. At a distance of two to three years, after flowering you remove the oldest, strongly branched shoots. Cut all the shoots that carried flowers the previous year in February, except for short stubs.
If your bushes have not been cut or cut incorrectly for years, you can use one rejuvenation pruning bring back to fruition. The entire crown is removed up to 30-50 cm above the ground and rebuilt from the strongest of the regrowing shoots.
Derive shoots: You can remove old branches by cutting them back to a younger runner
To keep the shrubs beautiful and flowering for a long time, every two to three years you should remove the oldest shoots after flowering on the ground. This is called a measure Illumination or conservation intersection, If a long, strong young shoot has formed on an old branch, you can also cut off the branch above this young shoot. All the power goes into the new branch and he will develop very well during the year. For long, unbranched shoots, a pruning by one to two thirds of their length is also recommended. They branch in the course of the season, the crown is denser and carries more flowering shoots. One exception is berry bushes: in order to preserve the fruits, they are cleared out in early spring.Although this does not increase the amount of fruit, the new shoots are all the stronger.
The described cutting method is suitable for the following flowering shrubs: Beautiful fruit (Callicarpa), Creecanthus, Deutzie, Forsythia, Kerrie, Kolkwitzie, Honeysuckle (Lonicera), Scented Jasmine (Philadelphus), Scheinkerrie (Rhodotypos), Cassis curry (Ribes), Elderberry (Sambucus ), spring flowering bushes (Spiraea), common snowberry, bright pea bush (Symphoricarpos), lilac (Syringa), some snowballs (Viburnum opulus, V. lantana), weigela.
Pruning of dwarf shrubs
Low summer blooms like the dwarf sparrow shrubs also need a vigorous pruning in early spring if they are to bloom abundantly in summer. Since they have very thin shoots and the distance between the buds is very small, it does not depend on a precise cut. You can simply use a sharp hand hedge trimmer to trim the plants. The more you shorten the old shoots, the better the shrubs will bloom in the new season. As a guideline one can recommend to trim the plants up to a hand's breadth above the ground. The described section also applies to summer heather (Calluna vulgaris), finger shrub (Potentilla fruticosa) and lavender (Lavandula angustifolia u.a.).
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Spring flowering: cut after flowering
Spring flowering: Cut off old branches on the ground or above a new vigorous shoot
All spring bloomers form their flower buds in the previous year and flower on the annual or perennial shoots. They are cut every three years after flowering so as not to unnecessarily reduce the splendor. The goal is to remove the oldest, now flowering branch and branch lots to make room for vital young shoots. This is done either by removing whole shoots or by deriving older areas on younger branches on the same branch. All shrubs that need a spring cut have one thing in common: they form long, unbranched shoots close to the ground or out of the center of the shrub. You leave the strongest of these shoots. They should be cut to different heights to promote branching.
The following shrubs belong to this group: Creecanthus, Deutzie, Forsythia, Kerrie, Kolkwitzie, Honeysuckle (Lonicera), Pipe Shrub (Philadelphus), Scheinkerrie (Rhodotypos), Ornamental Currant (Ribes), Elderberry (Sambucus), Spierstrauch (Spiraea, only spring flowers), Snowberry (Symphoricarpos), Lilac (Syringa), Filled Snowball (Viburnum opulus "Roseum"), Weigelie.