The Content Of The Article:
- This is how the cut of the Thuja hedge begins
- Ongoing cut care - a fight against balding
- When hedging is prohibited
The Thuja hedge grows only to the impressive, dense green wall, if it is really pruned regularly. Since this is never forbidden, if you do not just scrounge a bird's nest, there are few excuses to move the cut is also better, because Thuja hedges can be easily blended; at least as long as that happens constantly.
This is how the cut of the Thuja hedge beginsThe Thuja hedge is one of the classic hedges that are often used as a property border. The reason for this is that the trees named in German Lebensbaum are evergreen, offer a dense green picture, can grow very slowly, become very old and still be drawn to representative "green walls" with very little care.
In a few years you can grow a hedge that borders the property closed, very massive and yet contains nothing other than "green". However, the prerequisite is that you cut the hedge correctly and regularly during these years. This is how the Thuja hedge becomes an impressive green plot border:
- In the first year after the usual planting in spring, the young hedge plants are allowed to grow in peace without trimming
- Should it have been planted in the fall, the young plants will not necessarily need a cut next spring
- Over the winter, the rooting is very restrained, the Thujas need this first warm season still for rooting
- Therefore they do not grow at full strength in the upper area
- A few forms is possible in the first year: Strongly growing single branches are carefully trimmed with pruning shears
- This is possible at any time (see more below) and necessary, because these cross-members affect the growth of the remaining trees when they become too vigorous
- If the young plants are well rooted, start with the trimming
- But then definitely, if it is to be a nice dense hedge
- The main cut gets the Thuja hedge in the spring
- The occasionally propagated June / July cut shortly before the second growth phase is not recommended despite good wound healing
- Because at this time the border to the old wood is difficult to identify, too deep cuts happen quickly
- Since the trees in the green area are perfectly cut compatible, the hedge can be cut just before the shoot
- Thus, the hedge plants are stimulated to branch on the spring sprouting that begins immediately thereafter
- In addition, the new shoots ensure that the hedge just "looks fresh from the barber" for a few days
- If it is to become a hedge of only Thuja Hecke cones standing side by side, the individual plants are first cut individually for themselves
- Because such cones only look good if they have approximately the same strength
- It is important to work towards this, one plant must be slowed down, the next one more
- At the end of the cut, the contours of the hedge resulting from the individual plants are corrected
- If it is to become a continuous green rectangular hedge, it is cut from the beginning with a view of the entire hedge
- A good tool is a height-adjustable tension cord on two earth pillars
- If you cut along this line, you can work very precisely without much effort
- In the first years, the basic rectangular shape of the Thuja hedge is created
- It should always be slightly tapered (taper slightly upwards, why, will be explained)
- The conclusion is a straight line straight at the top of the hedge (the great moment of the tension cord)
- During the season, all individually growing branches should be removed during these shaping years
- The more careful the procedure, the smoother the Thuja hedge becomes
- Because later correction is omitted, the once crooked branch remains crooked, even as he gets older and thicker
Tip: The classic "tree of life" -Hecke is almost irreplaceable in places that are always supposed to be representative, because few other hedge plants are so easy to keep in order. However, it is not a hedge that helps the wildlife in the environment in their lives: The most common thuja species sold as a hedge plant (Thuja 'emerald', Thuja 'Brabant') is the occidental tree Thuja occidentalis, native to northeastern Canada and the United States, the other Thuja species offered here come from North America or Eastern Asia. These strangers are biologically largely dead, they feed neither our birds nor our insects, and as a nesting place, the (stinking) Thuja hedges are also not very popular... If it must be Thuja, then best not alone; even with a few native birds such as barberry and elderberry, dog roses, sloe or rowan berries (which do not have to be cut, at most in autumn brought in shape) help to keep our wildlife alive.
Ongoing cut care - a fight against baldingOnce the thuja hedge has grown into a beautiful green solid rectangle, the gardener must already "cut against it" that this rectangle loses its green. Because there is a reason that it was recommended that the side walls of the Thuja hedge should not run vertically upwards:
Lebensbäume are cypress family, which develop under the densely set scale-shaped leaves increasingly thick branches. The individually grown thick stemwood of the forested North American species is known under the name "Red Cedar" (reddish brown, Thuja plicata) and "White Cedar" (bright, Thuja occidentalis) and has been used since the post-war period eg. B. as a wooden shingle v. a. imported from Canada to Germany. Where the thuja hedge attaches thick wood or where the branches of the thuja are completely lignified, no fresh shoots with green leaves drive out more, that is meant by grinding.
In order to prevent this killing from the inside out, each must be cut as close as possible to the branch mass which is currently being processed in the lignified state. Since the lower branches rather lignify than the upper, the logic gives the conical structure of the hedge, which should remain green as long as possible from bottom to top. If the Thuja hedge is allowed to grow as it pleases, bare branches will soon be visible below, making the lower part of the hedge "transparent" and not really nice to look at.
Therefore, you should already have an eye on the growth rate in the first year, in which the Thuja hedge "grows vigorously" after rooting. If the thuja grows very fast, it also lightens accordingly fast, and you should take the hedge trimmer again at the end of September. Whether that is so, you see; whether it is likely depends on the breed variety and the given location. Particularly fast grow the original common tree of life (the "progenitor" of all Thuja occidentalis, in which the green scales leaves in the winter turn significantly towards brown) and the cultivar T. occidentalis 'Brabant' (which carries deep green leaves in winter).
Tip: If they are dealing with a "grown Thuja hedge", z. For example, if you have taken on a full-grown upside down hedge, then hints on regular trimming are of little use to you. Unfortunately, the determined and deep pruning of an old Thuja Hedge does not bring the quick fix desired in this situation. You can cut thuja into old wood, even conifers put on so-called "sleeping eyes", which are activated in existence-threatening cutting measures / wood losses. But these sleeping eyes are so called because they first have to be activated; and they are formed only by trees of sufficient number that never lacked. Therefore: Drastic pruning into the old wood is basically possible, but a risky affair, which does not immediately lead back to the beautiful green hedge. More about the radical section and a step-by-step plan for saving an old Thuja hedge can be found in the article "Cutting the Thuja hedge - the normal and the radical section explained". Incidentally, the "growing away" can start surprisingly: The cultivar T. occidentalis 'Sunkist' grows narrow and slow in youth, but grows vigorously in old age, in tempo and in width growth.
When hedging is prohibitedSince 2010, it has been stipulated uniformly in Germany in section 39 (5) no. 2 of the Federal Nature Conservation Act (BNatSchG) that hedges from 1 March to 30 September must not be cut off or placed on the pole (radical section except for short stubs). The reason is the protection of wild birds, because birds build nests in hedges and trees between March and September, where they hatch their young. If you wanted to dispose of a complete hedge between March and September (where there are bird nests, then you cut off the birds under the butt), you would be in trouble with the nature conservation regulations.
However, since the regular cut of a Thuja hedge is scheduled shortly before the start of the breeding season and the possible second cut shortly after the end of the breeding season, you will normally hardly come into conflict with the nature conservation law when cutting the Thuja hedge. If you have missed the allowed cut-off time, the following applies:
- In accordance with section 39 (5) no. 2 last half-sentence BNatSchG, gentle form and care cuts are permitted to eliminate the increase
- So actually exactly the current nursing care, which you just want to make
- Sounds as if § 39 para 5 BNatSchG in terms of hedges only for the "put on the floor" would be relevant
- But that's not how it is:
- You are only allowed to complete the annual main cut in the breeding season, subject to two preconditions
- First, the hedge must be thoroughly searched for bird nests
- If there were any, the hedge should not be cut until the juveniles have flown out
- In Thuja, however, you run very little risk in this regard
- Because if only a little "usable nature" can be found nearby, the Thuja hedge remains "biologically dead"
- However, some native birds today have a real need to find nesting sites and reach for every straw
- For example, numerous blackbirds are reported in the network, who naturally nest in Thuja...
- The second condition is that no more should be cut off than the addition that was added last year
- When hedge trimming no problem, in general, a little less than the annual increase is cut away
- Also allowed in the breeding season are individual cuts of sick, broken, sick branches