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The hydrangea, which belongs to the saxifrages, did not make its way from distant Japan to Europe until the 18th century.
Her Latin name is here on her appearance: Macrophylla, so large leaves, is the typical houseplant always, making it ideal with a stature height of 1.5 m as a container plant. And right there, in the bucket, in a partially shady, airy place in the open air, she also feels most comfortable. Only the frost does not tolerate it at all.
- From February, the hydrangea is taken from its cool (5-8° C), bright winter quarters and placed in the warm room, so they can start with the drive.
- After about six to eight weeks the inflorescence is fully formed
- during this phase, the plant wants to water evenly
- This should be supported at most two to three times with a kali-phosphoric acid-rich fertilizer
- giant umbels, shining in the colors pink, white, red or blue, are in reality only fake blossoms. Here, the enlarged sepals have taken over the function of the petals.
Depending on the breed, the appearance of inflorescences also changes: 'Bouquet Rose', 'Masja', 'Hamburg' or 'Tovelit' are ball-shaped, umbrella-shaped are 'Tricolor' or 'Cardinal'. Also plate or cone-shaped species are represented in the trade.
A very special and extremely popular subspecies of the hydrangea is the blue-colored flower. The original pink flowering variety is stained blue by a soil reaction with added aluminum sulfate or alum (5 g / l).
Cut hydrangea and overwinter
After flowering, the shoots can be cut back a bit, repotting is now possible (every one to two years). In summer, it is important to keep the hydrangea evenly moist, it needs a lot of water. However, this should always be softened, ideally rainwater, of course, where it feels most comfortable in a humus, acid soil.
Your hydrangea must be brought back to your room from the beginning to the middle of October. It is important that the shoots have set before wintering still strong buds from which develop the flowers in spring. Even in winter quarters from time to pour, the earth may never completely dry out.
The increase of the hydrangea is pleasantly easy. In summer, you can rooted their head cuttings without additional soil heat under glass or foil, after growing they should be pruned to ensure the most lush growth possible.
Planted hydrangeasThere are not only in the tub cultivated hydrangeas. The majority of beautiful flowering plants belong to the garden and indeed are planted out. Whether farm hydrangeas, panicle hydrangeas, plate hydrangeas or or or, many feel most comfortable in the garden bed. The condition is that they are hardy, but that is the case with most. When buying, make sure that the plant name is specified. So you can look after the special care needs and the winter hardiness of his hydrangea.
- Hydrangeas get along with almost any soil.
- They particularly like heath soil, which tends to have a slightly acidic pH.
- It is important that the soil can both store moisture and be permeable.
- Depending on the variety, a sunny, partially shaded or even shady spot is preferred.
- Hydrangeas are best planted in spring.
- After planting, casting is especially important.
- Even otherwise, the plants need enough water.
- Fertilizing with compost and horn shavings is usually sufficient.
- The hydrangeas are cut in the spring.
- In most varieties, the old inflorescences are removed, just above the underlying new pair of buds.
- Otherwise, only lighted.
- Dead shoot tips are cut off directly above the first healthy flower bud.
- To extinguish, cut off the oldest shoot (two or three shoots at high shoot density) directly at the shoot.
- Panicle and snowball hydrangea can be cut more strongly as they form their flowers on this year's shoots.
- Here you can shorten by one or even two-thirds.
- For wintering a winter protection in the root area makes sense.
- In particularly harsh winters, it is also worthwhile to protect the crowns in order to prevent freezing of the flower buds already created.
by Karin Fasching