Baumlieb, Philodendron erubescens - Care


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Not to be underestimated is the space required by the philodendron erubescens. It grows quite fast and, with good care, can reach ceiling height after a few years if you just let it grow upwards on a climbing aid. Ideal for all plant lovers who love a green jungle in the living room, without having to do much for it. The Philodendron erubescens boasts shiny dark green leaves, the underside of which is colored coppery. Unlike many other philodendron species, its leaves are smooth and lanceolate with no indentations. Fresh shoots first glow reddish, before they later turn lush green.

Short profile

  • Botanical name: Philodendron erubescens
  • other names: Red-leaved Philodendron, Baumlieb, Philodendron
  • belongs to the family of the arum family (Araceae)
  • shiny, leathery, dark green foliage (lancet-shaped)
  • individual leaves can reach a size of 20 to 40 cm
  • Shoots are dark red
  • Inflorescences with bracts and flower heads (often reddish)
  • Growth height up to 2 m (as a houseplant)
  • evergreen
  • Climbing or climbing plant (root climber)
Occurrence
The philodendron erubescens is native to the humid tropical forests of Colombia. The plant has attractive, leathery, mostly glossy leaves and grows as a climber on tall trees up to heights of six meters zoom. In addition to the many other philodendrons that exist worldwide in the rainforests, the philodendron erubescens (red-leaved philodendron) has become established in our homes. He is considered the most unpretentious and easy-care among the philodendrons. Mostly it is commercially available in the variant Philodendron erubescens 'Red Emerald'.

Location

A red-leaved philodendron prefers bright, indirect light. Direct sunlight in the morning and evening hours behind a window as well as the weakened winter sun at south windows are not a problem. With room temperatures the Baumlieb gets along well year-round and can be put in the summer months in the open on the balcony or the terrace. However, this place should be well protected because the philodendron hates the blazing sun. If the temperatures fall again below 15 degrees (especially at night), the climber must be returned to the protected house interior.
  • Light requirement: bright, but only indirect light
  • ideal are east windows
  • at the south window just behind the curtain
  • evenly warm
  • Temperature: 20 to 26 degrees during the day
  • not below 15 to 21 degrees at night
  • always warm root ball
Tip: If the philodendron is on a warm ground, it will withstand the air conditioning problem-free.

to water

During the growing season between April and September, the love of trees should always be kept slightly moist. Waterlogging causes the roots to become soggy and begin to rot and rot. In winter, the Philodendron is just poured so much that between the individual casting processes, the earth can dry about halfway. Always use room-warm water, as the plant tolerates "cold feet" only very badly. Calcified water is no problem for the red-leaved Philodendron, as it prefers lightly calcareous soil anyway.
tip: In summer, the root ball can also be dipped. The pot is placed in a bath with room-warm water and waited until no more air bubbles rise. Then drain excess water well.

Fertilize

Young plants and cuttings may not be fertilized in the first four months. Thereafter, the philodendron every two to three weeks, a dilute liquid fertilizer are fed through the irrigation water. However, this is only necessary in the main growing season between April and August. As fertilizer, conventional green plant fertilizers with an NPK ratio of about 5-10-5 can be used. Alternatively, long-term fertilizers in the form of fertilizer sticks are possible. During the cold season, the fertilizer is completely stopped.

maintenance

The large, glossy leaves of the philodendron erubescens tend to dust over time. This is not only quite unsightly, but also hinders the plant from transpiration. Therefore, their leaves should be wiped regularly with a damp cloth. Alternatively, smaller plants can be shed in the shower, which is difficult in stately specimens.
humidity
The philodendron tolerates almost all humidity levels found in homes. However, the higher the humidity, the better the lush growth and leaf gloss of the plant. For this reason, the plant is happy about occasional spraying with room-warm water.

repotting

The red-leaved philodendron thrives best when its roots are cramped. So do not plant it in a pot that is too big.If the roots of the philodendron already fill the entire pot or look up over the earth, it's time to repot the plant. In order to provide the Baumlieb sufficient stability, preferably heavy planters should be used. In addition to their higher weight, clay pots also have the advantage that they can better dissipate excess water. In order for the water to evaporate well, the planter should be correspondingly large and not flush with the planter. Even better is a flat coaster, in which excess irrigation water is more visible and therefore can be removed quickly.
  • repot when the roots are already filling the pot
  • the new pot just needs to be a little bigger
  • Time: late winter or spring
  • the heavier the pot, the better
  • Fill in drainage made of gravel or expanded clay
  • possibly new climbing pole with insert
  • Water very carefully for the next four weeks
  • Roots should not dry out (no waterlogging!)
tip: If a larger pot is no longer possible, older plants can only replace the upper substrate layer. Every three to four years, however, a root incision is necessary in which about 20 to 30% of the external root mass is removed.

substratum

Philodendrons like a slightly alkaline soil, but also get along well with neutral or slightly acidic soils. These should be slightly humic and well drained of water and air.
  • 1 part of mature compost
  • 1 part loam or humus
  • 2 parts coarse sand or fine perlite
  • fibrous additives like Kokohum
  • alternatively high quality potting soil
tip: The pH can be raised with a small amount of dolomitic limestone powder.
climbing aid
Mostly, the lush green plant is cultivated climbing. But it is also possible to let them from elevated point down tendons. For climbing, the aerial roots should be tied to a climbing aid to facilitate the plant's way up. Use a thick wool or sisal thread or a bent paperclip to secure the tendrils or aerial roots. In the following weeks the plant will anchor itself to the climbing aid with the aid of the aerial root. If you spray the climbing aid daily with a little water from the flower syringe, so that the aerial roots are kept moist and animated for better growth. Ideal trellis aids include:
  • Branches with coarse bark
  • Rods wrapped in sisal, coconut fiber or jute
  • moss-wrapped scaffolding and rods

To cut

As long as the distinctive climber does not get too big, it does not have to be cut. To limit their growth, you simply cut the shoot at the desired height with a sharp, clean knife. It is even allowed to proceed quite radically, because the philodendron erubescens tolerates blends well. He drives reliably even when he is cut short over the ground. To expel new, however, at least one vegetation point (eye) must stop at the shoot. In one cut, the aerial roots should be kept as good as possible. The red-leaved philodendron survives a pruning in spring or early summer. It should be noted that the plant is poisonous in all parts. Therefore, contact with the plant juice should be avoided at all costs. The use of gloves helps to prevent skin contact.
aerial roots
Always handle the (sometimes very rigid) airfoils of the philodendron with care. Because they can absorb moisture from the air, they are essential for the growth of the plant. Therefore, they must never be completely cut off. It is always better to attach them to the trellis or return to the pot. Very long or dead aerial roots may be shortened.

multiply

There are several ways to multiply Philodendron erubescens. In the plant trade, seeds are available, from which plants can be used. As a houseplant, the love of trees rarely flourishes, so seeds are not expected here. Shoots of the mother plant, which come into contact with the soil, form roots and are beyond a certain size alone survivable (sinker).
1. cuttings
The simplest way to breed a tree is through cuttings. Pieces of the shoot that contain at least two leaves or leaf roots (eyes) can be rooted as cuttings in pots.
  • Time: spring to early summer
  • Shoot with at least two vegetation points
  • produce as smooth as possible, clean cut surface
  • Scrape off the bark of the lower engine part
  • Substrate: sand and peat or peat moss
  • moisten only slightly
  • Insert the cutting properly
  • Planting depth: depending on the length of the cuttings about 3-5 cm
  • Temperature: 18-22 degrees
  • warm substrate (do not place on cold windowsill)
  • bright, no direct sun
If the air in the room is very dry, the cuttings can be protected from evaporation with a transparent plastic bag. In this case should be ventilated occasionally to prevent mold growth. After about four to eight weeks, the cuttings roots and begin to grow slowly.The plastic bag can be removed slowly and the Philodendron is now maintained as a mature plant.
2nd seed
Philodendrons can also be grown from seeds, but this is a lengthy process. A gardener needs a lot of patience until the plant has reached a reasonably acceptable size. For germination, the seeds are sprinkled on wet seed or cactus soil and covered with a thin layer of sand or substrate. Put in a clear plastic bag, the pot is placed in a warm place at temperatures between 23 and 25 degrees. Here, heat from below is conducive to germination. The location should be bright, but without direct sun. An occasional airing of the bag protects against mold growth. Germination usually takes up to 30 days, sometimes the seeds open faster. Now the plastic bag can be removed. From the second pair of leaves, the plants are repotted into individual pots with substrate for adult plants. The pot diameter should not fall below 9 to 12 cm, because otherwise soon a larger vessel is necessary.

overwinter

Philodendrons come from the tropical rainforests, where there are no major seasonal changes. Therefore, the Baumlieb can be cultivated as a houseplant all year round warm at temperatures between 20 and 24 degrees. Since less sunlight is available for the plant in the winter months, it significantly slows their growth during this time. Therefore, it is poured a little more sparingly and only very modest to no longer fertilized.

Diseases and pests

Diseases and pests are rare in the red-leaved philodendron. Occasionally, lice occur. More often care faults are responsible for the fact that the robust plant is ailing. If the lush green leaves of the philodendron erubescens start to fade, it can be a sign of too much sunlight. In extreme cases (sunburn), brown spots appear on the foliage. Also errors in the irrigation are visible on the leaves: brown leaf tips indicate too dry attitude, the lower leaves are yellow and fall off, it usually means that the soil is too wet.
Conclusion
The popular climbing plant from the tropical rainforests of Colombia has been one of the established indoor plants that can be found in many households. In addition to the modesty of Philodendron erubescens and the rapid growth of the plant has other benefits that are not to be despised. This includes their ability to filter pollutants from the air. Although virtually all parts of the plant are poisonous, which makes them a little problematic for pet owners, yet their benefits outweigh.

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