Real laurel - planting, care and propagation

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spice laurel

The cuttings are cut before or after the summer. You choose a strong shoot, which is not yet properly wooded. The cut always takes place under a leaf node. The lower leaves of the approximately 15 cm long shoot are removed before it is inserted into a humus-sand mixture. Also with this method you have to be patient, it may take a few years until a small laurel shrub is made out of it.
  • cover the container and the cutting with a transparent plastic bag
  • Air now and then, otherwise mold danger
  • put in a bright and warm place
  • do not keep too moist
  • plant the rooting pots in a larger container or in the field when rooted


Young plants or even larger laurel trees can be purchased in well-stocked specialist retailers. Even discounters and DIY stores occasionally offer genuine laurel as container goods. When repositioning or planting at home, a good drainage of the bucket is important. In the field, garden soil must be well loosened in advance beyond the bale size and, if necessary, mixed with sand. Planting is best done in frost-free spring or autumn. Then regularly, pour moderately with rainwater.


The winter hardness of the real laurel is sometimes given as -15° C. But you should not let it happen. The laurel is sensitive to frost. In the field, the overground parts die during prolonged frost. If the rhizome is not frozen, it can be cast out again in the following year. But you should not rely on that. If the laurel is in a protected area in a mild region, protective measures with fir branches, foliage or winter foil are required for the frosty period. The root area must be well covered. Do not forget to water something in winter.
Tip: In case of heavy ground frost and all-day sun exposure, it may be necessary to cover the whole bush with a fleece, so that not too much moisture is lost over the leaves.
However, most of the laurel trees are planted in tubs here in Germany. These should definitely be brought into winter quarters for the winter time. The site and care conditions for the winter:
  • in the autumn before the first longer-lasting frosts in winter quarters
  • cool around 5° C, frost-free and bright
  • pour only moderately, do not allow to dry out
  • Buckets that still stand outside must be well packed
  • Put the bucket on a polystyrene plate
  • From April / May he can leave his winter quarters again
  • then slowly get used to the sun


The spice laurel does not have this alternative name in vain. Certainly you want to pluck a leaflet for the kitchen now and then. Harvesting is best done in spring or autumn. The leaflets are picked off and placed in a shady place on a cloth or paper. Then covered with another cloth and weighted so that the leaves stay nice and smooth. When completely dried, the leaves can be stored in a closed box for 6 - 12 months.

Diseases and pests

There is good news here, because there are hardly any known specific diseases and pests. That's what the True Laurel owes to the leathery, firm texture of its leaves and its tart, aromatic scent that keeps many pests out. Only wrong care, by too many or too few watering, can weaken the roots and attracts scale insects and spider mites. This infestation can be controlled in the initial stage quite well by thorough spraying and collecting. The use of chemical agents should be completely avoided.
Conclusion If the sensitivity of the Real Laurel does not deter you, you will be rewarded with a beautiful, Mediterranean ornamental plant. With a good drainage precautions and with the right casting behavior over the year, the real laurel is otherwise a rather robust and easy-care container plant.

Video Board: Step By Step Guide To Bay Cuttings.

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