The Content Of The Article:
- Pip fruit: cutting tall trees
- Pruning herbs
- Plant Aronia properly
- Let carrot seeds soak
- Cut blueberries
- Sow kohlrabi and cauliflower in the cold frame
- Add horseradish
- Care cut for blackberries
- Mulch berry bushes
- Pre-treat onion onions
- Sow the first peas
- Kiwi: Thinning shoots and shortening
- Fight monilia on almond trees
- Fertile fruit trees regularly
- Cut back strawberries and cover
- Prepare seedbeds
- Prefer tomatoes on the windowsill
- Video: That's how you pimp right
- Prefer celery
Depending on the weather, from mid-March you can move the preferred lettuce plants outdoors. Take care not to put the young plants too low, otherwise they will be susceptible to rot fungi and do not form heads. After planting, the lettuce plants are allowed to stand a little shaky - the stalk solidifies within a few days and the plants then continue to grow upright.
Pickling salad can be sowed on small beds instead of in rows also breitwürfig. Simply sprinkle the seeds on the weed-free soil and then gently rake them. The first young leaves are harvested like cut salad. Then you should gradually thin the plants to 25 to 30 centimeters distance and later use as a pickle salad.
Pip fruit: cutting tall trees
Pear and apple varieties refined on seedlings grow over the years into stately trees. In contrast to their weak-growing relatives, they cut back high-strains as late as possible in the spring. Reason: The later the fruit tree is cut, the weaker the trees are again and the higher the fruit yield.
Early spring is the best time to prune enduring herbs such as thyme, savory, sage, rosemary and hyssop. It is best to shorten the mostly woody plants at the base by about one to two thirds with scissors. The result: The shrubs become bushier and make more spicy leaves.
Trimmed in early spring, the rosemary is bushy later
Plant Aronia properly
Apple or Aronia berries (Aronia melanocarpa) are easy to care for, but by no means as modest as often claimed. The native North American shrubs grow in nature on rather acidic soils. In loamy and calcareous soil, they develop thin shoots and produce no or only sparsely flowers and fruits. Waterlogging is just as unsustainable as prolonged drought. As with cultivated blueberries, it is best to plant them in a mixture of humus-rich garden soil and bark compost from conifers and mulch the bed additionally thick with softwood chaff. The cultivation of several shrubs ensures the pollination and the fruit set. Do not forget to pour in the summer!
Let carrot seeds soak
Before sowing carrots, mix a bag of carrot seeds with a handful of damp sand and let the seeds soak in a covered container at room temperature for three days. This shortens the germination time in the bed by about a week. The whole thing has another advantage: The seed-sand mixture prevents too dense seeding in the bed.
The thickest and sweetest fruits grow on cultivated blueberries on the annual one-year branches. Therefore, cut off the branched shoot tips just above a one-year shoot. In addition, old-fashioned branches, which only supply small sour berries, can be removed directly from the stem. Pull the appropriate number of young, vigorous floor shoots for it. Also cut out the weak young shoots. Our garden tip: Are not enough ground shoots available, older shoots on knee height hats. These again form young, fertile side branches.
If you want to harvest beautiful juicy blueberries, you should polish old branches regularly
Sow kohlrabi and cauliflower in the cold frame
A cold frame is very well suited to the preculture of various cabbage plants. Sow kohlrabi, cauliflower and other species at the beginning of March, as they take around 30 to 40 days to reach seedling size and be transplanted to the garden bed. Ensure a good water supply and ventilate regularly, because the temperature inside should not exceed 22 to 25 degrees Celsius.
The cultivation of horseradish with its up to a meter long leaves is quite simple. The healthy root vegetables will not be so easily released once it has established itself in the garden. That is why only a few, about 30 centimeters long root pieces obliquely set in nutrient-rich soil in the spring. By autumn many new lateral roots grow up, which can be excavated and harvested.
Care cut for blackberries
The blackberry mite is one of the most important pests in the cultivation of otherwise easy to maintain berry fruit. The tiny arachnids migrate in the spring from the rods, which have yielded fruits in the last year, on the flower buds of the young rods.The clearing is therefore best already in the winter, but at the latest before the new budding. Cut all biennial rods close to the ground. Their distinguishing feature is the dark bark. Then tie five to six strong, still green young rods on the trunk and cut all side shoots on two buds. In cold regions you should wait because of the risk of frost, until milder weather is expected. Finally, excess, weak ground sprouts are also removed.
For blackberries, do not wait too long with the pruning
Mulch berry bushes
The wild relatives of the native berry bushes grow mainly in the undergrowth of the woods or at the edge of the forest. There they are used to humus rich soils, which are covered with a leaf layer every autumn. If you want to recreate these conditions in the garden, you should cover the root space of your berry bushes with a mixture of shredded shrub and compost. If the first grass clippings occur, you could also use it as a mulch when dried.
Pre-treat onion onions
Put onion for a day into the water, they root faster. Besides, onions so later in the earth do not press themselves upwards. Put the onions at a distance of about five centimeters and a row distance of 20 centimeters. After two months you can harvest the first onions and make room in the bed for the remaining plants.
Sow the first peas
Pea or pea peas survive even light frost and can already be sown early in the month (row spacing 40 centimeters, in the row five centimeters). The variety 'Germana' carries many light green pods, each with nine to eleven sweet grains. Tip: Pile the young plantlets with crumbly soil as soon as they are about hand-high. In the row inserted twigs serve as a trellis aid.
Peas are not particularly susceptible to frost
Kiwi: Thinning shoots and shortening
By March at the latest, you should cut your kiwi plant. Of the shoots from the previous year, only short sections with three to five buds remain at regular intervals. In spring new sprouts with flower buds emerge in the first four to six leaf axils. Since all shoots can bear fruit only once, the aborted shoots must be tapered in the spring on each side shoots, which have so far borne no fruit.
Fight monilia on almond trees
Infections with the fungus Monilia laxa occur now at the time of flowering and can lead to almond trees and cherry (highly prone, for example, the shade morello) to damage the tip and flower drought. Hereby, the shoot begins to wither from the top, the flowers also brown, but they remain hanging on the tree for the next few weeks. The mushroom hibernates at the dried up places. There he forms a gray spore covering in early spring, which infects new flowers. Moist cooling weather promotes infestation. Use suitable crop protection products during flowering (eg Duaxo Universal Mushroom-free). Replace affected shoots severely!
Fertile fruit trees regularly
Above all, small fruit trees on weakly growing root documents require regular nutrient supply from the first year of planting. The highest is the need during flowering and fruiting. To ensure that the nutrients are available on time, slow-acting organic garden fertilizers (for example Neudorff Azet-Berry Fertilizer) should be applied at the end of February to the beginning of March. A second fertilization will take place at the end of May. Mineral fertilizers (for example, berry & fruit fertilizer pearls, substrate) are released more quickly and should be spread about four weeks later, ie end of March to early April and from mid-June and incorporated superficially.
Fruit trees are supplied with mature compost right from the plantation. Then fertilize each year in the spring with compost, horn shavings, long-term mineral fertilizers or a special fertilizer with higher potassium content
Cut back strawberries and cover
Now that winter is almost over, you should cut off all brown or withered leaves from your strawberries. Also gently loosen the soil between the shallow rooting plants. Then you should incorporate some ripe compost in the beds. So that strawberries can start well into the season, you also have to remove all the weeds in and between the rows. If you want to harvest early, cover your strawberry set with black foil at the end - so the soil warms up faster and the plants bloom earlier. When the first flowers appear, the foil must be removed again.
Now is the time to prepare the dug out or loosened beets in the vegetable garden for sowing. Add about 5 liters of fine-crumbly, well-ripened compost per square meter, which you previously mixed with a handful of horn chips, and work the mixture flat with a cultivator.At the same time the coarse clods are being crushed. Then let the bed rest for about ten days. During this time, a few weeds germinate, which will help you to remove the rake with the final leveling of the bed. Immediately afterwards you can sow the first types of vegetables.
Prefer tomatoes on the windowsill
From the beginning of March, the light intensity is sufficient to prefer tomato seeds in seed trays on a south-facing windowsill. Within two months, the plants become so strong that they can be converted into a greenhouse or a tomato house. In the field, a good rain protection is recommended because the plants otherwise easily get sick of cabbage and brown rot.
Video: That's how you pimp right
Start now with the preculture of celery: To germinate, the seeds need light, so they should only be lightly pressed on the ground. At temperatures between 18 and 22 degrees, germination is fastest. Always keep the substrate moist with a spray bottle, but not wet. When the first leaflets are visible, you can pique the plants and reposition them four centimeters apart. Then pour the seedlings only a little and give them once a month some liquid fertilizer to the irrigation water. The pre-culture lasts about eight weeks in total.