Venus flytrap: Basics for care, casting and feeding

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Venus flytrap: Basics for care, casting and feeding: casting

Like a Venus she dresses red, exudes an attractive scent and spreads her leaves arms. All insects are welcome. And then she lives up to the second part of the name. The trap snaps, the fly is delivered to her and is consumed with wings. Would you like to experience this drama up close? But what backdrop does this diva need?


The Venus flytrap, offered. Dionaea muscipula, originally a South American beauty from North and South Carolina. Wild thrives there in barren swamps. Because of the fascinating insect hunger, she is now allowed to perform her hunting skills in domestic living rooms worldwide.

Growth and catching mechanism

The venus flytrap is small and grows slowly and herbaceous. It only blooms after several years. In spring, a stalk grows about 30 cm long, where several white flowers develop. But her prey does not attract her with the scent of the flowers. Their approximately 4 cm long leaves look like catching iron and so they work. As soon as they feel touch on their surface, they snap in a fraction of a second. The red color of the leaf surface and a sophisticated scent mixture attract the victim. Langatmig it is digested for days, until hardly anything is left of him. Each catch leaf can trigger this catch mechanism only a few times. But there are always new traps.


Venus Flytrap - Dionaea muscipula

A lot of light and sun are existent for the Venus flytrap. Only if she gets enough of it, her catches turn red. The red coloring pretends a flower and attracts the nutrient-rich insects. In the penumbra, the plant was growing, but its leaves remain green. The ideal location has the following characteristics:
  • very sunny
  • flooded with light
  • South window is ideal
  • with humidity over 50%
  • no drafts
  • Temperature from 22 degrees Celsius
  • no high temperature fluctuations
The Venus flytrap may like to spend a long summer holiday outdoors. It tolerates the fresh air and the bright sun perfectly. However, it must first be gradually accustomed to the new location. In milder areas, it can also be planted out. The terrarium provides a good living environment for the Venus flytrap. Whoever can give her this, she thanks her with a good development.


Ordinary potting soil and the home soil of these carnivores do not have much in common. Therefore, spare the venus flytrap with this unit mixture and give it a special, lime-free substrate from specialist retailers. Alternatively, you can make a mixture of peat and sand yourself. Fertilizers, humus and other nutrients must not get lost in it.

to water

Venus Flytrap - Dionaea muscipula

As a hunter of the swamps, the Venus flytrap, as a houseplant, naturally has its roots in the wet soil. Since the potting soil in closed walls is not kept moist by nature, the owner must operate regularly as a water provider. This task is quite a challenge, because the Venus flytrap can react like a mimosa if mistakes are made. You definitely should not do that:
  • Give them kalkhaltiges water, that will kill them in no time
  • pour from the top, because rot threatens
  • let the earth dry out
Keep to the following rules when casting:
  • The substrate should always be moist
  • Rainwater is ideal
  • alternatively use decalcified water
  • pour directly into the saucer
  • In the summer there should always be water in the saucer, about 2 cm
  • in winter, the substrate should be moderately moist
  • in winter it is enough to water once a month


Not only do their feet want to get wet, the leaves like to stand in a moist air. It should be at least 50% high, according to experts. Except on rainy days, the Venus flytrap will not encounter such high humidity in our climate, unless its owner takes pity and helps.
  • Indoor fountains ensure a better indoor climate
  • Place glass bowls with water nearby
  • Cultivation in glass containers
  • Hang humidifier on the heater
  • Sprinkle with water in summer, but without lime!
Tip: Moisture meters are cheap to buy, so you do not feel the humidity felt, but play it safe.


The Venus flytrap is originally used to barren soil. And because their roots hardly find nutrients in the soil there, evolution has found a solution with a lot of ingenuity. The Venus flytrap gets the necessary nutrients from the air by attracting and digesting flying insects nearby. Since she is a so-called weak-eater, they are rich in these nutrients of animal origin. It does not need to be fertilized.


Venus Flytrap - Dionaea muscipula

A non-typical for plants question is actually in this strange plant downright.Does the Venus flytrap have to be fed? And if so, with what? What is your favorite food? Does she need variety on the menu? Before any further questions arise in this regard, it should be clearly stated: The Venus flytrap is absolutely capable of making enough prey and thus to take care of itself.
The green huntress can snap her catch leaves in a fraction of a second while hunting insects. This is a fascinating performance and one of the main reasons why this carnivore is kept. Unfortunately, nobody can wait around the clock next to her, so as not to miss this moment. Extra feeding is therefore tempting for every owner. There's nothing wrong with that if you pay attention to the following.
  • Feed them occasionally and not regularly
  • only with live animals
  • Prey no larger than a third of the catch leaf
  • feed spiders, flies, beetles, wasps or ants
Note: Dead animals are not digested because the animals' movement is missing as a trigger of digestion. The mechanism of the tentacles is exhausted after a few attempts to catch, so that new catches must be formed. Do not waste the power of the Venus Flytrap senseless!

Cut flowers

The formation of the flowers binds a lot of energy. If you do not feel like it, you can cut off the flower stems as soon as they show up. Then there is more energy left for the formation of the catches, which are much more interesting to most people. However, if you want to propagate venus flytrap from seeds, you will need to leave some flowers for the seeds to ripen.

Propagation by cuttings

Do you need more beautiful flypaper? No problem, the propagation through leaf cuttings is easy and the chances of success are excellent.

1. Choose a healthy, strong hand.

2. Use a sharp, clean knife to cut the blade close to the base. A few roots should be on it.

3. Fill a pot with a suitable substrate.

4. Moisten the substrate well.

5. Insert the blade plug into the substrate.

6. Keep the substrate moist.

Until a new seedling develops, you still have to be patient. Because it takes months to get there.

Propagation by division

Venus Flytrap - Dionaea muscipula

The repot after the winter break is a good opportunity to provide for offspring.

1. Get the Venus Flytrap out of the pot.

2. Free the root ball from the substrate.

3. Divide the rhizome with a sharp and clean knife. At each section roots and leaves should remain.

4. Plant the new cuts in separate pots.

5. Keep the substrate moist enough for the roots to grow quickly.

Tip:Until the roots have formed well, the young Venus flytrap should be protected from excessive sunlight.

Propagation by seeds

The last propagation variant is in view of the well-functioning cuttings propagation and propagation by division rather for those who are eager to experiment with an extra depot patience. Many years can go into the land until the Venus flytrap hatched from seed flowers and catches flies. The seeds are cold germs, which requires a long sowing procedure.

1. Place the seeds in a closed container that protects the seeds from mildew.

2. Put the container with the seeds in the fridge for about a month.

3. Choose a shallow pot that is evenly perforated from below.

4. Add peat and sand and place the pot in a bowl filled with water.

5. When the mixture has become soaked, drain the excess water.

6. Distribute the seeds on the substrate at a distance of a few centimeters. Do not cover the seeds!

7. Stretch the cling film over the pot and pierce a few holes.

8. Put the pot in a bright place.

9. In about 2-4 weeks, the first seedlings show up. Now remove the slide.

10. If the seedlings are too tight, give each a separate pot.

Tip: Mince the large pieces of peat so that they do not create any insurmountable obstacles for the still tender roots.


Venus Flytrap - Dionaea muscipula

It takes a year, for example, for the Venus flytrap to fill its pot full of roots and start growing over the edge. It is time to give her a new pot.
  • Pot may be flat, as the roots grow flat
  • use suitable substrate
  • ideal time is February / March after hibernation
  • immediately before moving to a warmer location
  • dead root parts must be removed
  • use clean knife or scissors
  • Do not bury the bale too deeply
  • water well


The Venus flytrap needs a rest in winter. In the autumn, she makes her rest need clear by forming smaller leaves. Also, the catches are no longer open and do not turn red. Now look for a suitable accommodation for you. It should be very bright, at temperatures of 5 to 10 degrees. Drafts and strong temperature fluctuations should be avoided as much as possible.Unheated staircases, bright attics or basement rooms with natural light come into consideration.
The rest breaks down the maintenance effort to a minimum:
  • no fertilizer or feed
  • little water, only about 1-2 times a month
  • no waterlogging
Note: Young plants do not hibernate and should therefore keep their usual warm place in winter.

Hibernate in the fridge

A somewhat weird solution for a missing winter quarters is the own fridge. But do not worry, the Venus trap comes with it and your food will not be damaged. Due to the tightness in the refrigerator, the Venus flytrap can move in there without the pot and without the substrate.

1. Free the plant completely from the substrate

2. Cut off all above-ground growing parts.

3. Rinse the root ball with lukewarm water.

4. Wrap the root ball with several damp layers of kitchen paper.

5. Put this "package" in a plastic bag and close it well.

6. Keep the bag in the refrigerator until April.

7. Remove any rotten roots.

8. Replant the venus flytrap.

Tip: Get used to the plant slowly back to the blazing sun.

Hibernate in the field

Venus Flytrap - Dionaea muscipula

The Venus flytrap is conditionally hardy and could survive the winter outside in milder areas. The emphasis is on "could". There can be no security, so this possibility of hibernation should be well considered. The greatest chance of survival have older, well-developed specimens. But they also need a sheltered space and extra coverage.

Diseases and pests

With good care, the Venus flytrap is not very susceptible to disease. In rare cases, they face some challenges. When in winter quarters the air is dry and warm, the Venus flytrap of spider mites be attacked. On the underside of the leaf spines are visible, the top has silver dots on. The humidity should be increased, which helps well.
aphid follows in low light, so usually in the low-growth winter. Regularly check your carnivore for aphids. They are easy to break off, which is usually sufficient as a first measure.
Gray coating, which looks like mold, is the so-called gray, Remove all affected parts of the plant. If that's not enough, you might need to help out with a fungicide or give up the plant.
Tip: Once the vitality of the venus flytrap has suffered, its natural defenses can be well rebuilt with a plant tonic.

Video Board: Venus Flytrap Care - Preparing for Cold Dormancy.

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