The Content Of The Article:
- The right cut at the right time
- The foundation for a profitable grape harvest
- Professionally cut vines in the 2nd year
- Summer cut and forms of education
- Worth knowing soon
Ambitious breeders owe it to refined varieties of the Vitis vinifera can now be cultivated in winter hardy areas. With grapevines decorative pergolas, garden fences and also house walls can be greened. For a rich berry harvest and for a healthy growth of the plant, however, a regular back and parenting cut is indispensable. Already in the first two years of existence, it is important to note a few special features when trimming. After just a few years, you can expect your own, high-yielding grape harvest under ideal conditions for your location and care.
The right cut at the right timeGrape vines in the hobby garden exude a southern flair. With Vitis vinifera you can decoratively decorate house walls and garden fences and enjoy the tasty berry harvest in autumn. Numerous breeding species and forms make it possible to cultivate grapevines even in winterhardy regions. A full sun site and the right substrate promote the resilience of the growth-friendly plant. The right care is very important and requires a lot of effort and time. For a high-yield crop and a healthy appearance a regular trimming is absolutely necessary. Error forgives the robust grapevine rather than a year without rear or parenting.
Whether and at what time grapevines should be cut is a hotly debated topic. However, if the fast-growing plants are left to their own devices, they will be neglected. Weak shoots, deadwood and sick leaves are the result. Already after one year, the "not trimming" becomes noticeable. To bring the vines in shape and promote health, an annual trimming is necessary.
The foundation for a profitable grape harvestIn the first year of planting, the right measures are necessary to turn the tender shoots into a strong and well woody stem. It is planted in spring and until late summer, you should give the grapevine the opportunity to grow undisturbed and form a strong root network. If you want to limit the growth of the vines to 2 to 5 meters, the first pruning takes place at the end of August. The plants are shortened to about 1.5 meters. This gives the plant the opportunity to use the excess energy in the formation of the roots and to strengthen the above-ground parts of the plant before the hibernation.
Autumn is the best time to take care of weak vines. Slender drooping and curved shoot tips are an indication of a healthy and vigorous growth. If possible, leave them untouched. Sprained shoots, however, indicate a stagnant growth, the plant suffers from a shortage. Take action immediately and check the site conditions first. But also root pressure by other plants and nutrient deficiency can be the trigger. Lack of light and heat, so you should move the grapevine before the first frost to another planting place. If the minimum distance to other trees is missing, remove them. If the vine has only a weak main shoot until autumn, cut it down to three eyes. The plant must now be able to use the following year to form strong roots and strong shoots.
Professionally cut vines in the 2nd yearIn the second year you can start with the construction and the first education of the grapevines. With the appropriate care and cutting measures, you can count on a successful grape harvest already in the 4th year. The winter season is between November and March, before the grapevine begins sprouting new leaves and twigs. In the first years, this measure serves to build up the strong skeletal structure.
- Select and mark about 6 to 8 stem-like, strong shoots.
- The rest of the thin slices are completely removed.
- If necessary, encourage the growth of lateral shoots by capping the main drive tip.
- Cross-growing and wildly sprouting shoots can be eliminated even in the summer.
- Sick and dead plant parts are removed during the main growing season.
If you shorten weak shoots from the previous year in the second year, do not cut them off close to the trunk.About 1 to 2 buds should be kept from the shoot, the cut is about 1.5 cm above the last eye. The "eyes" below the cut surface should not come in contact with the escaping sap. Because the permanent wetting with liquid damages the bud. With a slightly beveled cut surface you work around this problem.
Summer cut and forms of educationThe main cut on older vines is only in winter. In the first two years, however, you should only moderate the growth of the plant moderately, so that the main trunk and the shoots can develop healthy and strong. A summer cut is only applied from the 4th year, but is rarely necessary. It eliminates Geiztriebe and removes excess leaves around the berry stands. The "defoliation" should extend for about 2 to 3 weeks, so that the plant is not harmed by UV radiation. If the trimming is not required in the summer, you can do this work during the winter cut.
Already when planting you should think about how you want to raise the grapevines. Particularly easy and easy care are the garland and fan-shaped growth of the vines. In both types of education, no strict pruning is required, the complete care effort in the cultivation of the vine is limited. Important to know: Newly planted vines are almost exclusively refined and have different requirements and characteristics than older, unrefined house vines.
Tip: In the later years, you can remove all shoots that do not bear grapes during the summer cut. The berries become bigger and more aromatic.
The "education" and the pruning of grapevines are not a high science. Also, no one has to pass through a thick book of guides to get their own vine in shape. The right back and upbringing is extremely important to promote the growth of the vine plants and to bring the plants in the desired growth habit. With just a few tips and grips, you can improve your crop yield and counteract the potential for grapevine grapevines.
Worth knowing soonIf a grapevine is still young, less than five years old, and has not undergone any professional education, it can be roughly reshaped with a winter cut.
- The winter season will be in February or March.
- First, it is important to recognize that wood from the previous year.
- The old shoots are usually in a yellow-brown, ocher or reddish brown color. If you scratch them, they are green inside.
- Furthermore, the old shoots have buds, each at a distance of five to 15 cm.
- These shoots should be cut down to four to six buds.
- In addition one must know that fruits grow only from the buds of the previous year's wood.
- For that the shoot must be strong, which is the case if it is at least as thick as a pencil.
- In addition, there should be no ramifications at the end of the shoot, as a nutrient supply is best ensured.
- All shoots that do not meet these requirements, are cut flush to the main trunk.
- Usually, about 90 percent of the branches are removed after this selection.
- Now comes the fine cut, in which remain on the remaining shoots in the lower part stub with two to three buds.
- In the upper area should be shortened so far that four to six buds remain.
Basically, the pruning should always be done with a very sharp pair of scissors. The cut surface is slightly oblique, while thicker stem parts are cut off on "Astring". Due to the oblique cut, the vine can "bleed" better. The leaking fluid can be passed by the oblique cut on underlying buds, which protects the buds. The sharp scissors ensure that there are no bruises on the vines.
- It should always be ensured that the cut surface is clean and smooth.
- It must not be frayed, since in this case the interface may dry out.
- Furthermore, the risk is great that the buds can be supplied with sufficient juice with a blunt scissors.