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1 scoop of compost on a bucket of water (or better equal to three times the amount in the mortar tub) leave stand until no more foam is formed. Dilute 1:20 and pour around the plants should be tasteless in this dilution.
7. Liver moss extract
Liver moss extract is ready to buy, and it has been scientifically studied that z. B. Arion lusitanicus, the dreaded Spanish slugs, do not mix with liverwort extract sprayed lettuce leaves.
8. Moss manure
Liver moss extract is the safe number, but all mosses contain phytochemicals that they have formed as defense against pests. And all native mosses have to fend off domestic snails, so the moss in the lawn is well worth trying for a "second use", after you have laboriously picked it out of the lawn: Let a few hands full of moss in water for three days, strain and around the Watering plants. Incidentally, one of the domestic snails is the notorious Spanish slug, which has been imported from Spain with us, scientifically and genetically proven to be a Central European snail of the genus Arion (of which the researchers in Spain did not find one). For this they have discovered many new previously unknown gene variants of the Arions, which seem to cheerfully cross...
9. Rhubarb leaf manure
Finally, the leaves of rhubarb make sense. The slurry of rhubarb leaves is tasteless, fertilizes the vegetables as well and distributes by the way the snails. However, the leaves of rhubarb are not consumed because they contain unhealthy amounts of oxalic acid, over the manure could also increase the oxalic acid content of the fertilized plants - so better spend on vegetables that are eaten cooked (and pour off the cooking water). Add 1 kg of rhababer leaves to 1 pail of water, infuse for one day, pour undiluted around the endangered plants.
10. Pine cones
Collect 1 kg of pine cones, leave to stand in a large stainless steel or enamel pot in water for 24 hours. Bring to a boil, let stand for 1/2 hour, strain, pour cooled stock around the roots. Because of resin in the broth nothing for snail defense in harvested vegetables.
11. tomato jumbo
Also a nice remainder use: Give exuberant side shoots of tomatoes in a bucket of water, let draw 24h, around the plants, but do not pour over the leaves. Again 1 kg to approx. 10 l, the slurry can be diluted 1: 2 to 1: 5.
12. Wormwood manure
Casting with a 1 to 10 diluted vermouth slurry squeezes out snails, ants and weevil larvae. However, this manure is so bitter that even the salad should not be harvested directly the next day...
Can be invited into the garden with a hedgehog house and eat horribly snails.
If you fancy a few new pets, have your lawn mowed by friendly ducks, which do the same way every snail.
If the marten was not allowed in the attic, he may have moved in somewhere in the garden. Not so bad, the predator is not interested in your plants, but for rats, mice, snails (carrion, rotten fruits, wasp nests)...
The annoying but protected mole is at least useful by plastering all the snails (and wireworms) on their property while loosening the soil nicely. Incidentally, he does not do anything to your plants.
Furthermore, slow-moving crawlers, firefly larvae, frogs, toads, ground beetles, and shrews like snails to eat; The song thrush builds itself a special throttle smith to kill snails: A stone, with whose help she forcibly blows the snails out of the case.
Mechanical snail defense
You can make snails difficult and no animals access to your most beautiful vegetables so heavy that they move hungry to the neighbors (not really, but at least in the garden areas where they can nibble):
1. Defense by snail-wall
Snails are naturally repelled by any "wall" of natural material that makes it difficult to crawl. You have the choice between ash, egg shells, chopped thorn branches, rock flour, sawdust...
2. Cultivation out of reach
from snails offers a salad tree, which can just as well stand in a garden bed as on the balcony.
3. Cultivation or preference in the pot
If you do not treat birds, squirrels, mice, and snails with leaflets of seedlings that are supposed to bring some delicious cropping, putting them in the pot is a good idea.They put so strong plants, which despite all other measures still wandering snail can not do much more, also, the harvest is possible much earlier.
4. wire mesh as wood protection
If you plant young trees that have a particularly high ecological value, they are often liked not only by bees and other insects, but also by snails. Such as As the bee tree Euodia hupehensis, young bee trees should therefore be surrounded as snail protection with a fine-meshed wire mesh cuff.
5. mulching against snails
Folds with any material that can be overcome rather cumbersome in crawling locomotion, preferably quite fine mulch. How about fine flax shives, a traditional, soil-forming mulch material that helps in the degradation of plant growth and ward off snails very well. To order z. B. waldland.at/de/waldviertler_flachshaus/flachs_und_hanf.
6. Safe storage
7. Access impossible
It also means for snails, if you pull the tenderest vegetables in the raised bed. Not only because of this, the harvest will be magnificent, in the raised bed, the earth warms up earlier, you can reap several times or bring critical South vegetables to maturity.
Relaxed gardeners are not necessarily against snails
Relaxed gardeners do not live against, but with nature, and they gladly accept the help offered by the different organisms of nature. In the case of snails, this is first aid in tillage, they feed on dead plant material, which is crushed by the snail and ("through it") much faster to humus.
Nudibranchs do the same, "health police snail" eliminates the Aas and faeces of other small animals, but in turn is itself an important component in the food web, for all the above-mentioned wild animals (and sometimes even for the snails themselves, snails eat nudibranchs (eggs), all snails eat the carrion of other snails).
Slugs therefore have an important ecological significance, and larger numbers of nudibranch populations make relaxed gardeners more attentive to the fact that they indicate a disturbance of the natural equilibrium in the garden.
The snail fight then consists mainly of measures that improve the balance again, more attention to natural design, so that many natural snail enemies can settle; combined with curbing the current increased snail emergence by the means referred to in this article.
Where relaxed gardeners not only know the biological agents effective against snails, but also know how to make the snails work for them:
Relaxed gardeners do not want to kill the snails in their garden, but decide for themselves where the snails work for them. This requires auger steering, and it works like this:
1. Anti-snail plants
Where the snails do not want to go, these plants (around the flower bed) are set to drive the snails out:
- Barnacles, Dianthus barbatus
- Wood anemone, Anemone nemorosa
- Felberich, Lysimachia clethroides
- Hard-working Lieschen, Impatiens walleriana
- Chamomile, Matricaria chamomilla
- Nasturtium, Tropaeolum
- Chervil, Anthriscus cerefolium
- Lavender, Lavandula angustifolia
- Hepatica, Hepatica nobilis
- Marjoram, Origanum majorana
- Moss Saxifrage, Saxifraga bryoides
- Feverfew, Tanacetum parthenium
- Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare
- Rosemary, Rosmarinus officinalis
- Sage, Salvia officinalis
- Cranesbill, Geranium
- Shrub peonies, peonies
- Thyme, Thymus vulgaris
2. Screw lure
If snails are expelled somewhere, there must be somewhere else where they can walk or be sat down. B. Garden areas with the following plants:
- a. Flowering pruning to encourage re-emergence brings tender young flowers that snails often find delicious.
- b. Nitrogen fertilizer increases the nitrate content of plants; What should be avoided in the salad can make the snails happy elsewhere.
- c.French sorrel, Rumex x acetosa, is not only delicious for gourmets, but also the snails regularly make the tender leaves their favorite dish. It does not matter, just plant the vigorous dock where the snails are supposed to gather. It's sturdy and straightforward, if you plant enough of it, you can still collect enough for the kitchen after the snails have been collected and moved to work on the compost.
- d. Clover, perennial, is a hot tip to attract snails. Are there as ready assembled seed for dry locations (red clover, alfalfa, white clover, meadow fescue, oat grass, Meadow grass) and precipitation rich layers (red clover, white clover, German ryegrass, meadow fescue, Meadow grass), an idea for a nice piece of meadow in the back garden.
- e. Parsley tastes snails so well that it could overgrow one of the central snail collecting points from which the snails are transported to the compost for fronts.
- f. Other favorite snail plants:
- Stinging nettles, Solenostemon scutellarioides
- Strawberries, Fragaria
- Radish, Raphanus
- Marigolds, Tagetes patula
Why "only" biological agents?
If there are so many beautiful work-facilitating chemical agents? More and more home gardeners work without pesticides, initially simply because more and more pesticides prove highly dangerous and unhealthy.
And to make work easier, these pesticides are not really. In the house and allotment anyway, if you want to spend the funds correctly (and everything else is prohibited), you are the most part of the season in measuring and calculating.
But they are never altogether labor-saving, and a plant floor, on which many artificial pesticides are used, is never easy to care for, that is a fairy tale of the pesticide-producing chemical (pharmaceutical) industry.
Rather, this planting soil is in a surprisingly short time no longer to use as a planting soil, currently increasing in the vote in research, after which not the (organic) agriculture without pesticides, but the intensive agriculture with pesticides, the world at some point in a hunger crisis will fall. It takes a long time and is quite labor-intensive to re-train a chemically contaminated soil... In addition, pesticides regularly damage organisms in the environment, including humans; are made with high energy input from irreplaceable resources; even in small amounts disturb the balance of pests and beneficials.
In doubt, this leads to a vicious cycle: new pests migrate, multiply unhindered and are destroyed with even more poison - at some point the vegetables are no longer edible, the pests are resistant and the gardener is sick of all the poison.
More and more people refuse to join in this cycle of madness, and biological snail management is a step in this path that every home gardener can do well.