The Content Of The Article:
- When is the best time?
- Why is a pruning so delicate despite its good cut compatibility?
- Ornamental apple tree - Instructions for crown cutting and master care
- Guide to cutting as a solitary garden shrub
- Cut the ornamental apple hedge properly - you should pay attention to this
- Rejuvenation cut on shrubs and treetops - How to do it right
- Ornamental Bonsai - Instructions for the cut care
So that an ornamental apple presents itself in the garden as a furious triad of fragrant flowers, rich green leaves and picturesque fruit decorations, it depends on the right cut. Demanding essays on the expert fruit tree section you do not have to roll. After reading this manual, you are familiar with all aspects to consider when cutting.
When is the best time?Thanks to a robust cut compatibility, you can make minor corrections throughout the growing season. For more extensive interventions, different times have worked well in practice. The best dates are summarized in the following overview:
- Form and maintenance cut on shrub and treetop: between November and March
- Grooming and nurturing the ornamental apple tree: between June and September
- Rejuvenation cut: between January and March
- Planting of bare shrubs: after planting in autumn or the following spring
- Garden bonsai clearing cut: after the flowering period, at the latest in autumn before the first frost
Why is a pruning so delicate despite its good cut compatibility?
Whenever you cut your ornamental apple, a more or less large amount of buds, flowers or fruits of the scissors fall victim. Unfortunately, the good-natured cut tolerance of the plant does not change anything. Shortly after the end of the flowering period, the buds are created for the next year. If you want to forestall this process with a pruning in summer, remove the plants for the autumnal fruit decoration with the withered flowers. Follow the times recommended here for the shape and maintenance cut during the foliage-free time, after all, keep the joy of the colorful apples.
There is no royal way out of the floral dilemma. A restrained cut has proven to be the best solution in practice. Cut an ornamental apple according to the rule of thumb: as much as necessary - as little as possible.
Tip: The pretty little fruits are not poisonous. Ornamental apples are not suitable for fresh consumption due to their bitter taste. In some regions, resourceful housewives use them to make jelly or marmalade. As a craft material for imaginative autumn wreaths, the colorful, solid apples are also suitable.
Ornamental apple tree - Instructions for crown cutting and master careAs a house tree Zierapfel experiences a high appreciation in the private garden. From the magnificent spring blossom over a densely leafed crown in the summer to the bright fruits in the fall, the ornamental wood proves to be a decorative reflection of the seasons. To keep it that way, scissors and saw should be used according to this manual:
- Exterminate dead, damaged and puny branches in winter
- Cut off these shoots at the base without injuring the astring
- Shorten too long and deeply hanging branches
- Set the scissors at a distance of 3 mm to a bud
- In summer cut off side shoots below the crown from the trunk or tear off
Guide to cutting as a solitary garden shrub
Ornamental apple hybrids, such as 'Evereste' or 'Golden Hornet', are the jewels among the solitary flower and fruit ornamental shrubs. The rapid growth of up to 80 cm of annual growth makes cutting back inevitable at the latest when the spatial dimensions in the garden are blown up. Annealing every year effectively prevents you from getting a kilt from the inside out. This guide summarizes what needs to be considered in the context of cut care:
- Defrost deadwood in every late winter
- From the fifth year, cut off the two oldest ground sprouts at the base
- Shorten shoots by a maximum of one third if necessary
- Always cut at a short distance to a bud, leaf or sleeping eye
Tip: Almost all ornamental apples are grafted on wild apple (Malus sylvestris). Throughout the year, cheeky wild shoots sprout from this underlay to overgrow the noble part of the plant. As soon as you see a water schosser, you break off the shoot with a courageous jerk from the pad.
Cut the ornamental apple hedge properly - you should pay attention to thisShrubby ornamental apple species, such as Malus floribunda and Malus toringo sargentii, gather in row planting to form a magnificent sight-hedge. These two types of ornamental flowers will bloom well even after a shape cut. By acquiring root-baked goods at the nursery, you can significantly lower the purchase price. Apart from the fixed planting season between October and April, the only difference to high-priced container goods is in a planting section. With regard to the subsequent cut care, root-bare and potted ornamental apple bushes pull together. This is how you proceed correctly:
- Rootless young plants cut back by one third after planting
- Potted young shrubs get no planting
- From the third year the hedge in each late winter thoroughly auslichten
- Dead wood, cut off weak and inward shoots at the base
Pay attention to an advantageous trapezoidal shape when cutting. As the ornamental hedge tapers slightly from bottom to top, the sunlight reaches deep inside the shrubs. Because of this, the shoots can produce leaves close to the ground so that the hedge does not become frosted.
Rejuvenation cut on shrubs and treetops - How to do it right
In order not to interfere with the beautiful flowers and the beautiful fruit decorations, careful gardeners do not cut the ornamental apple at all. As a result, the shrub or crown will be forgotten. The increasing amount of deadwood shadows the shoots, so that no leaves and flowers can thrive here. A rejuvenation cut will fix the problem. That is how it goes:
- The best time is a frost-free day in winter
- In the first step cut off all dead branches at the base
- Weak, sick and damaged shoots light up
- The remaining main shoots cut back to 30 to 50 cm
Tip: Means for wound closure are no longer timely. Sealing larger cuts with an airtight paste has been proven to be counterproductive. The only exception are wounds with the diameter of a 2-euro coin and larger, if they arise in the middle of winter. Just thinly coat the wound edges with tree wax to protect the frost-sensitive cambium wood until spring.