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Not only in terms of her flowers, the rose is very varied. There are bed roses, shrub roses, edelrosen, hedge roses and climbing roses. Every rose has special requirements for care and cut. When does the rose cut best: in the spring before budding or in autumn after flowering? When is a radical pruning necessary? With the appropriate basic knowledge and a little practice, you get a feeling for the right cut of your roses over time.
Early years section
The spring cut is the most important cut of the year for the rose. When exactly in spring depends on the weather and the region every year. Therefore, when the forsythia begin to flower, the time is perfect.
In principle, all those rose varieties are cut back in the spring, which form their flowers on the young, fresh shoots in any case. To promote the expulsion of as many of these shoots, a pruning is absolutely necessary.
You start by cutting out all those shoots that grow towards the center and that intersect, right at the point of attachment. This ensures a good ventilation of the rose bush and a harmonious overall picture. Old and woody shoots are also completely removed. Now you have a good overview and can begin with the pruning of the essential, vital shoots. These can then be shortened to five or three eyes.
Dry leaves and rosehips from the previous year must also be removed. Now, perhaps only a few strong shoots are left, whose last eyes each point outward. Ready is the spring cut.
How far this main cut has to be depends firstly on the type of rose and secondly on their individual vigor and growth habit. More on that, further down in the text.
Exposure cut, summer cut
Throughout the vegetative period, ambitious rose owners repeatedly resort to the rose scissors. Who cuts off the withered flowers, prevents the force goes into the fruit set, and thus promotes the second flowering. The cut should be made diagonally, outwards. It is not the cut directly on the flower approach, but about half an inch above the next five-petalled petiole. Does the whole shoot a weak and too thin impression, it can be quietly removed even to the approach.
Who wants to make even more effort, can do something for the shortest possible flowering break at the beginning of budding, about 3 weeks before flowering. For this, experts recommend cutting back about every 4th budding shoot. Three to four leaves are cut under one bud.
An autumn cut is not mandatory, but is an effective measure against some rose diseases. As soon as the first frosts drift across the land, it's time for the autumn cut. In any case, all dead and too thin shoots and dead wood are removed. This will otherwise be the perfect breeding ground for fungal diseases and rot in winter. If you like, you can shorten all other vital shoots, about two-thirds remain. The shoots should be about the same height then (juice balance).
Roses are not necessarily easy to care for and relatively prone to pests and diseases. Therefore, it is important to consider some basic things for a healthy cut. This is true for all trees, but is particularly important for roses:
- sharp cutting tool (the stems must not be squeezed!)
- Cut across an outward-facing eye
- Cut half an inch over the selected eye
- Cut slightly obliquely so that rainwater can run off
- Do not cut too obliquely so that no unnecessarily large cut surface (wound) is created
- when removing whole shoots, cut off flush on the next branch, do not leave a "stub"
Although each type of rose wants to be treated individually, there are a few basic tips on how vigorously a pruning should be done.
The basic rule is paradoxical, but quite simple:
Weak and slow-growing roses are cut back vigorously. Lush and strong growing roses, on the other hand, should be less pruned.
This basic rule is easy to deduce: The more the pruning takes place, the stronger the new propulsion is stimulated, and vice versa, the more economical the cut, the more restrained the new propulsion.
Here's another tip to raise a particular growth habit: Cutting the stem of a rosebush down to three eyes promotes longer and stronger, but less shoots. When pruning up to six eyes or more, a rather bushy growth is encouraged.It drives more shoots that are not so long.
Tip: Cutting back the weakest roses is best. The less old wood they have to supply, the more power goes into the shoots. If the growth still leaves much to be desired, a nutrient deficiency or a root problem can be the cause.
Cut of climbing roses
Climbing roses need a special cut in their early years because they need to be educated to their proper shape. Similar to wine, an annual education cut is necessary here. Climbing roses bloom on the horizontal shoots. Depending on the desired direction of growth, it is therefore strong long shoots, as soon as it is possible, horizontally on a trellis o. Ä. to fix. These main shoots then form many flowering side shoots. These can be shortened according to the general description for the rose cut in spring. Basically, climbing roses are cut back. Again, a distinction is made between one and two times flowering. The faded flowers of the more flowering varieties are, as described above in the plastering removed. If the shoots become too dense with time, you can remove old shoots (5 years or older) directly at the base.
Cut of dog roses
Mostly they are once-blooming wild roses, which are wonderful for hedge planting. Here, there is no need for a plastering cut, because in the end you want to enjoy the red rosehip in autumn. A spring crop is not here, because the flowers are formed on the previous year's wood. The dog roses are, just like the once-blooming rambler roses, only lighted as needed.
Cut of bed roses
In spring, all sick, frozen shoots are removed in the bed roses. The rest is cut to four to eight eyes. Again, let strong shoots longer, reduce weak shoots stronger. Older shoots are cut off directly at the base.
Cut at Edelrosen
The section does not differ from the general information for the spring section. The tendency is for the reds to be more dense than the bed roses.
Cut at shrub roses
For shrub roses, a lush, shrub-like growth habit is desired. A severe pruning takes place only in emergencies. Otherwise, in the spring only shoots that cross cut back. Likewise frozen and dead shoots. For remontierenden varieties a plaster cut for a lush second flower is necessary.
With a few basic instructions for the rose cut, you can make his roses run to their best. With time and a little practice, the necessary self-confidence comes. You can see quite quickly the success that a properly set cutback has. Before you know it, the works such as the back and plaster cut are among the favorite occupations. So, gloves on and with sharp rose scissors fresh to work. Most roses forgive sometimes a faulty cut.