Winter protection for container plants - this is how you cover plants properly


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red rugberry

The variety of plants that can be kept in the tub is very diverse and diverse. So there are both perennial native as well as from the tropics and subtropics originating species that are more or less sensitive to cold and frost. Particular attention should therefore be on a welfare-appropriate wintering, because without frost protection is hardly a container plant. While sensitive potted plants have to survive the winter frost-free, a hardy cover will often suffice. Sometimes trunk and crown need separate winter protection.

Winter hardy potted plants overwinter

Although these plants tolerate some minus degrees without any problems, they should be protected from all eventuality shooters and winterized with suitable protective measures. In the pot or bucket they are due to the limited root space frosty temperatures delivered defenseless. Without frost protection, the bale freezes very quickly. If it thaws on mild winter days relatively quickly, the roots begin to rot. Therefore, it is essential to protect even supposedly hardy potted plants from winter cold, icy winds and sometimes even winter sun. Depending on the winter hardiness, these measures include the protection of the root area, for example by covering, and / or the entire plant, including the above-ground plant parts.

Winterize the root

Actually, the winter protection already begins with the planting or the selection of the right planter. This should have the largest possible capacity, sufficient drain holes and a drainage layer on the bottom of the pot. The root is in most cases the most sensitive part of the plant, especially in potted plants. Winter protection is not only recommended for freshly potted seedlings, but also for older specimens.
  • Winterize plants before the first stronger frosts
  • Remove withered flowers and leaves before covering
  • Otherwise rotting and pest infestation may occur
  • Then apply frost protection
  • Double wrap the bucket with insulating materials
  • Nonwovens, bubble or bubble wrap, jute, reed and coconut mats are suitable
  • To protect the insulation, additionally wrap in wicker or bark wood mat
  • Tie it down with jute ribbon
  • Different colored jute band still provides an appealing look of winter outfits
Depending on the susceptibility to frost, the root area can be covered with straw or pine twigs. No less important is the protection of the bale from the cold of the ground. To avoid direct contact with the ground, place the bucket on an insulating polystyrene plate, coconut mat or a wooden pallet. If available, you can put potted plants on stable plant scooters, which makes their transport much easier. If possible, place the well-packed bucket close to a wall, where it is less exposed to the weather.
Tip: With the coverage of the root area you should not exaggerate it, because despite winter protection sufficient air must be able to reach the earth at any time to prevent rot and mold. In addition, the possibility of casting must be given.

Winter protection for trunk and crown

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In the case of smaller trees or shrubs in the tub, the crown and trunk must also be protected from heavy frost, cold winds and winter sun. This is especially important with evergreen plants, because in the sun the leaves constantly evaporate water. If the ground is iced at the same time, they can no longer absorb water, causing them to dry up in the worst case. Often it then appears in the spring that plants are frozen, but they are dried up.
  • Shade evergreen plants in any case
  • This keeps the evaporation as low as possible
  • Short-term, high temperature fluctuations involve the risk of stress cracks in the bark
  • This mainly affects leafless plants
  • Bark tears can be the entry point for pathogens in the spring
  • To counteract this, carefully bind the shoots together with bast or something similar
  • Then put a jute sack or fleece hood over it
  • Bind the sack or hood together at the bottom or at the trunk with high trunks
  • Do not bind too tightly to avoid damage to the plant
  • For larger plants, use jute or winter protection fleece
With burlap or reed mats, stems can be winterized by wrapping them or protecting them with fir-spines. What you should not use in any case are foils, the plants would sweat underneath, which in turn would lead to rot.
Tip: When protecting the aerial parts of the plant, it must be remembered that evergreen plants always need sufficient light even in winter.

Care of hardy potted plants

In addition to the right protection, care should not be lost in winter, too. The refers only to occasional pouring. Depending on the location and weather, it is usually sufficient to water moderately every 2 to 3 weeks and only in frost-free weather. It is best to pour when the daytime temperatures are highest. Leaves should not be wetted with water if possible, as they now only slowly dry again and could easily freeze to death. It is not fertilized during the winter.

Winterize frost-sensitive plants

In addition to winter hardy, there are also potted plants that are sensitive to frost and must therefore winter frost-free. However, they should not move too early to winter quarters, because a few cold days make it easier for the plants to enter the resting phase. In addition, she cures this. Beware of exotic plants such as Citrus or oleander offered. Depending on the weather conditions, they should already be granted in October.
Before adding, remove again withered flowers and leaves. Unlike outside wintering plants, depending on the species, they can now be cut back one-third or one-half. After being finally checked for pest infestation, they can be transported to winter quarters. As different as the individual plant species may be the demands on hibernation, which should be taken into account.

Suitable premises

Suitable for wintering are bright and frost-free or unheated conservatories, garages, cellars or stairwells. Basically, the cooler the room temperature, the darker the winter quarters can be. Evergreen plants such as oleander or citrus plants need plenty of light even in winter, while leafless plants such as fuchsias or angel trumpets can also be completely dark.

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The wintering room should be under no circumstances too warm, because then there would be the formation of so-called Geiltriebe. This refers to long, thin, powerless shoots that have no use and cost the plant unnecessary strength. Such drives must be removed again and again. For most plants, temperatures between five and ten degrees are optimal during the winter. They should not be too tight, so that optimal ventilation is guaranteed at all times.
Tip: If the conditions in winter quarters are not ideal, a stronger pruning in autumn should be avoided, so as not to stimulate budding. Cutting measures move then better in the spring.

Care in winter quarters

Plants that overwinter indoors should also be watered sparingly and not fertilized. The substrate or the bale must never completely dry out at any time. Usually it is enough to water sparingly once a week. Before each casting, the substrate is allowed to dry well.
In addition, regular airing is essential. If an actually evergreen plant loses its leaves, it is usually not the lack of water that causes it, but too little light or too high temperatures in winter quarters. Falling foliage should be removed regularly.
Conclusion
Terrace and balcony are synonymous with a living room in the open air. Even without a garden, you can conjure up a green oasis in no time at all. As huge as the selection of suitable plants is, as diverse are the design possibilities. If they are then wintered correctly, they can unfold their full splendor year after year and make for astonished looks.

Video Board: How to Protect Plants & Flowers from Frost.

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